Not a new cabinet by any means, but I finally got the chance to give the custom cabinet that I made about 3 1/2 years ago (seen here) a little facelift.
First things first, it’s FINALLY at my place. When I built the thing back at the end of 2012, I was still living in a condo, so I had no room for this. So it sat in my parents’ basement, and only saw usage during family gatherings and parties. I moved into a townhouse last October, and have a basement of my own now, so it finally made it over.
- Took the cabinet apart to lower the entire unit by ~2": previously, I made a mistake in my calculations, and the control panel ended up at ~30" above ground, which made it ~2" higher than the standard ~28" that control panels are supposed be at for sit-down cabinets.
- Changed the artwork: was getting tired of my abstract “black-lines” artwork and the multiple fighting game banners. Besides, SFV is here, so the banners were outdated anyways. I actually like the standard Vewlix artwork, and considering I had white sides and black middle-sections, using the red Vewlix art seemed like a no-brainer. Problem is, since my layout isn’t a Vewlix layout, I didn’t want to use the Vewlix name. But I did really like the way the V, W, and X made the overall logo’s shape look, so I took the general silhouette and turned it into a resistor.
- P1 side is all Seimitsu (LS-32-01 and PS-14-KN, with a FGW LED board and ArcEye2s)
- P2 side is all Sanwa (JLF with OBSC-30)
- Home, Start, Select are still all Seimitsu PS-14-DNK
- The main 6 buttons and Start are blank; the “extra” 2 buttons, Home and Select simply have red paper inserts
- Kept the same black bat-tops and Tek-Innovations arrow-dustwashers as before
- Wiring cleaned up a bit; not my best wiring, but everything is connected to a 20-pin connector that matches the layout on the PS360+ and Brook UFB. The original Paewang boards that I had in there have been connected to a male-end 20-pin header. This way, if/when I ever upgrade the internals to a UFB (or anything else), the wiring to the buttons and joysticks are modular and I’ll never have to rewire that portion.
- The USB cable has also been made modular and has been fitted with a 4-pin header rather than directly soldered to the PCB.
P1 side (all Seimitsu with the FGW LED board and ArcEye2s)
P2 side (all Sanwa)