The Official Post your Arcade Cabinet Thread!


#1781

Hey everyone… Ive spent the last couple of weeks building a simplified Vewlix Style Cab with the goal of keeping the cost under $300 and using some basic power tools that most people have… I was able to get it up and running yesterday just in time for EVO… Still some finishing touches to do though… I’ve been keeping a [worklog of my progress on this thread…](Simplified Vewlix Cabinet Build & Worklog lemme know what you think guys!


#1782

That Capcom Big Blue looks sweet Ramrod. Nice work!


#1783

Outstanding work @jonyfraze!


#1784

@NENDO thanks for the support during the build brother…


#1785

@jonyfraze nice work keep it up bro
man i really would love to have my own cab been wishing for one for years, any tips on how i can get my hands on one candy cabs or vewlix L ?


#1786

Hit up @“Jasen Hicks” he’s doing a group buy buy of some vewlix cabs. Don’t try to lowball him though. He’s getting it for a pretty good price. You just have to add shipping.


#1787

I’m in the process of building my arcade cabinet right now! I’m creating videos on my YouTube channel TheGeekPub! I hope its OK to share!

https://youtube.com/watch?v=-yX3rQG89M0


#1788

Nice Project.


#1789

So heres a story about my adventure with Arcade CRT issues. A cautionary tale….

So I bought this cabinet a few months ago, it did not seem to have any issues

It is an Atomiswave SD Candy Cabinet, manufactured in 2003. According to the Arcade Otaku Wiki it has a Wei-ya M3192D Monitor. Based on a bunch of digging, people have reported major issues with the Monitor it comes with since 2008 (That I can find). The consensus is that it was made with shitty cheap components.

Im still fairly new to Arcade Hardware, I don’t have a ton of electronics experience in terms of repairing these sorts of issues so I needed to find help. I originally took the machine to a place in El Monte, CA called Vics Videogames. They claimed to have fixed the issue, it certainly powered on at the shop after it sat with him for a month so I didn’t question it. This is after I called once a week for that month asking where it was at and I got a lot of “We had to help other customers, they need theirs repaired now before yours”. Im pretty patient, but after a month of hearing the same line with no progress it was getting old. By this point I thought it was screwed completely, I just wanted confirmation so I could start looking for a replacement. 5 minutes after getting it home and plugged in, zaaaaap it was dead. There was no literal zap…it just wobbled on screen for a bit and went dark. Kind of like the end of Terminator 2, except to the sound of MvC2’s Jazz intro music. My other cabs are connected to the same outlet and are fine so I was pretty safe to assume it wasn’t my wall outlet killing it, at least on its own. The guys at the place said they had to double on diodes because they kept frying after a short time being on. I was fed up with the bullshit, no more business there from me.

I was about ready to sell the cab, which was sad because I got it at a good deal and I have my MvC2 setup in it. I thought id do a bit more digging. I found P&L Videogames in Baldwin Park, CA but unlike Vic’s place, P&L had some community backup on posts on NEO-GEO.com forums and some other random Arcade focused forums. I had only found Vic’s on Yelp, and thats it. I called the place up and asked what they needed from me to get this thing repaired. Now to be clear the monitor has NO burn in whatsoever and had a beautiful picture. Ive filmed it a few times, like this video https://youtu.be/r9OW1YgqcUE, where it was up and running with no issue. They told me to only bring in the Chassis.

Yikes!

Ive never pulled a Chassis before, and I wasn’t feeling very confident. My father who has a lot more experience with this sort of thing offered to help. Partly because I had bought him a cab and his monitor was failing as well, but for other reasons. Being that this cab uses a flat tube monitor that runs all three arcade resolutions it has a lot more cables to unplug because of its complexity. It also doesn’t exactly help that the control panel is not on the chassis board and is connected via various wires to a sub board. After taking a LOT of pictures, we pulled the Chassis with some help from John’s arcade video tutorial. After looking at the Chassis carefully, I couldn’t find any modifications to the board whatsoever! Where the fuck were these so called doubled up diodes? It doesn’t look like anyone but a machine has soldered anything on this board since it was assembled.

I took the Chassis to P&L and within 3 days (today) they called me back with it repaired. The guy told me “Whoever worked on this before fucked it up”. In the end it required a Cap job, and a new Flyback plus whatever things he had to fix that were modified. Based on my own reading the flyback issue might have texplained the clicking noise the monitor was making after it died and might have explained the over voltage issue where it kept frying components. I thought the clicking might be the monitor having trouble finding the right resolution.

Now, I just received it repaired from P&L, and I have not installed it back into the cab yet. Im feeling confident based on the fact I can see the modifications (New caps, flyback) changes to the board itself. Also, unlike Vic’s place, P&L seem to really only work on Monitors. They have monitors galore and this was a monitor issue.

I will be reinstalling this thing on Friday for a hopefully final determination if its going to work or not. I have come to the conclusion if not, I might just replace the monitor entirely with a new one that Suzo Harp sells. Looks like it might still be more Wei-ya rebranded crap, but it will at least be working. If anyone is interested I will update this on Saturday when and if its up and running……or not.


#1790

Love that cab. Let us know how it works out.


#1791

I remember other people on the forums been telling me there will be some “learning experiences” with buying your first cab (I am paraphrasing there).
One person puts it as a ‘right of passage’ for Arcade cab owners.

Most people their first time ether overpay or have alot of repair/restoration work to undergo.
Apparently the monitor is a common issue in old cabs.
Good thing the body looks like it’s in great shape. Fiberglass repair is a pain in the ass.

Still the Sammy Atomswave is a awesome cab, and I like to see how this project progresses.


#1792

Atomiswave was my first candy cab. Most of the problems with this cab was the shitty PSU & the geometry of the screen. Overall though its an awesome cab. Can you describe more of the actual problem you had? Before & After you sent it to “Vics” as in how the screen looked liked or behaving. Was it working in the shop & when you took it home it died?


#1793

I will be updating on saturdaym ill keep everyone posted!

Overpaying has been my issue so far I think more than anything, but it could be worse. Yea the body is in excellent condition, and I got the 2p panel on the cheap too so its almost all good to go.

When I took it to Vic it was a blank screen but the sound was working. When I went to Vics to pick it up it was running like the day I bought it, no issues. When I got it back it lasted 5 minutes before the screen started to wobble and flicker and then poof it just went black. Someone in another thread mentioned I might have a voltage issue as well, and I’m sure this thing doesn’t have a step down transformer so I just bought one of these off of Amazon and am going to give it a shot. Still shitty work on their part for not replacing the necessary parts and even mentioning it could be an issue.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PC4JL4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00


#1794

I think there is a more elegant solution than getting a Japanese 100v to US 110/120v transformer

I need to read up more on it myself, there seems to be a safety issue in wiring mains voltage.

I also found this
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=20288.0
http://forum.arcadeotaku.com/viewtopic.php?t=28990


#1795

You can replace the PSU w/ a cheap Happ PSU.

Then there is guy name Franco B that does cables at arcadeotaku. You can use Happ PSU with your existing cables. Very easy drop & replace option if the PSU is your problem.


#1796

Nice cab!!!

I’ve had a lot of monitor Chassis’s worked on P&L does get them working but they hack the crap out of them to do it. If you want repairs done correctly I would HIGHLY suggest you look at http://www.arcadecup.com/

Chad is not the cheapest but I’ve had 30-40 chassis done in the last 3 years. The first 15 I did with P&L, 7 worked, 1 kind of worked and 7 were horribly done. The 7 they did right, worked well, nice work but it’s not consistent. The other chassis were all done by Chad, all were perfect, never an issue. High quality caps when possible (not the cheap crap)

Just my 2 cents. :slight_smile:


#1797

Thanks dude, ill definitely keep this in mind for the future, if it goes black again any time soon ill hit Chad up.

Suffice it to say at least this time the job did the trick, I’m back up and running!


#1798

NICE!!! P&L is much cheaper than Chad, but I was willing to pay a little more to get something consistent (one chassis cost me 200 by the time I was done shipping and back and forth to P&L 3 times)

Great cabinet, and I couldn’t have picked a better game for it :slight_smile:


#1799

The girls are now all back together


#1800

Reminds me my old setup!

http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r225/baklakiller/2012-05-10002403.jpg