Typically yes, though you just need something from Harwin via digikey thats 1x4 .100" connectors.
One thing to try… the legs on the connector should face UP for the Stick Selector switch. Are the pins bent down a bit? It might just take a little manual manipulation to make it fit since Molex does make a “naked” version of the KK connector as well that mates with the cables included.
It seems like this link to the EZ mod for TE2+ with connectors (https://arcadeshock.com/products/ez-mod-for-te2-plus-version-mad-catz) has gone dead. Does this mean no restock soon?
Probably means they sold out of premade kits.
I just bought a TE2+ and the buttons are squashy and way too sensitive. And the joystick is not stiff at all, feels like it is all over the place. Not what I expected for paying 220$. I have two questions. The first is are the Sanwa 30mm you buy online any better?and if not what brand is better.
The second questions is if I’m going to spend another 60-80$ modding the TE2+, should I just buy the qwanba dragon? Is it just as good or better?
Sanwa buttons are sanwa buttons, no difference in any stick you get them in. The Dragon uses the exact same, just a different color. The lever is the same deal as well. Sanwa JLF in both cases. If you are going to want to make it stiffer, get a new heavier spring.
Also, this is off topic. This is the TE2/TE2+/TES+ EZ MOD thread which has nothing to do with the buttons and levers installed in these sticks.
Sorry, I’m new to this, just need to know how to get stiff responsive buttons.
Please use the search function of the forums. There are hundreds of discussions on personal preference on buttons and levers.
Just buy a button that is physically stiffer to push.
In general Seimitsu buttons are stiffer than Sanwa.
get seimitsu buttons.
or Sanwa RGs
Can you use a Neutrik USB port instead of the stock Pro Cable port?
My other question is that does the Left Stick/Right Stick/D-Pad function still work?
Sure. You just need to mod the case to make it fit and forgo the USB connectors on the EZ MOD.
For the TE2+ version, yes, the LS/RS/DP switch works.
Sorry if this is the wrong place to ask but is there a way to have the LS/RS/DP switch work on the old T.E.2 with the EZMOD pcb?
No, it would require a redesign of the board. I chose to not implement that in favor of setable buttons for the various other buttons on the UFB.
Oh I see, well thanks for the help.
DOUBLE POST fo-giv-a-nes prease!!!
Been doing a lot of house keeping on SRK the last few weeks; Cleaning up my [WTT/WTB TO thread](WTT: Lots of sticks / parts / & misc’s added | WTB: MAS and Diamond VLX arcadesticks Finding new homes for some sticks that never really felt right in my Tony Robbins’ banana hands, Organizing the trunk of funk that is my storage locker/parts bin, And now finally trying to wrap up some builds that were perpetually stuck at 75% complete.
So here’s my attempt to make a MadCatz TE2 SE
[list] MadCatz XBox 360 TE2 shell from a local trade
 @“Jasen Hicks” 's TE2 EZ MOD kit
 @armi0024 & @SusanInParadise 's presoldered headers Brook UFB PCB ( I just removed the plastic guide on the J5 pins so that the EZ MOD and UFB would play nice together )
 @armi0024 & @SusanInParadise 's PAS Universal S Adapter Plate
 @mdsfx MadCatz TE2 red bezel
 Seimitsu LS-38 SC lever from @Needlecrash
 Seimitsu LB-35 red ball top from @hibachifinal
 Seimitsu PS-14-GN-C colored rims from @hashrate
 Seimitsu PS-14-GN-C black plungers & rims from @slaycruz
 Seimitsu PS-14-DN-C colored rims from @TRIEU
[*] Seimitsu PS-14-DN-C black plungers from @“NiFTY NuGGET”
Nice LS-32 in that TE2