The Official TE2, TE2+, TES+, PANTHERA EZ MOD Thread


Hi Jasen,

I tried your suggestion and connected a USB cable straight to the Brook, but it does not make a difference. Still not detecting my XBox and Wii U.

Btw, the connector for the LS/DP/RS is too thick and doesn’t fit the Brook connector. I think I need a slimmer cable, like the one for the USB (J6-1).


That connector on the Brook isn’t the correct one for the EZ MOD; it’s not what I include at least with the kits. That’s probably why it doesn’t fit. Did you get the board in an EZ MOD kit or did you buy it from somewhere other than ArcadeShock?

Other than that, I suspect there is something else wrong with the UFB. If it has been updated to the current FW; I’m at a loss as to why it’s not working with 360/wii u/One. @GOGO.Zippy - thoughts?


Got it as a kit from ArcadeShock: Where can I get a slimmer cable connector, like the one you include for the USB/J6-1 connection? Would Fry’s have something like that? I think that will fit the presoldered LS/DP/RS connector on the Brook.

Yeah. I updated to the latest firmware via my Mac. Basically:

  1. I downloaded the firmware (1.8),
  2. opened it,
  3. pressed PS and Share button while plugging in the controller (as instructed by firmware installation instructions)
  4. updated firmware
  5. clicked on “done”/“complete” button after the firmware updated
  6. unplugged the controller

Tried it across my systems and it only works on the playstations.


Typically yes, though you just need something from Harwin via digikey thats 1x4 .100" connectors.


One thing to try… the legs on the connector should face UP for the Stick Selector switch. Are the pins bent down a bit? It might just take a little manual manipulation to make it fit since Molex does make a “naked” version of the KK connector as well that mates with the cables included.


Hey Jasen,

It seems like this link to the EZ mod for TE2+ with connectors ( has gone dead. Does this mean no restock soon? :frowning:


Probably means they sold out of premade kits.


I just bought a TE2+ and the buttons are squashy and way too sensitive. And the joystick is not stiff at all, feels like it is all over the place. Not what I expected for paying 220$. I have two questions. The first is are the Sanwa 30mm you buy online any better?and if not what brand is better.
The second questions is if I’m going to spend another 60-80$ modding the TE2+, should I just buy the qwanba dragon? Is it just as good or better?


Sanwa buttons are sanwa buttons, no difference in any stick you get them in. The Dragon uses the exact same, just a different color. The lever is the same deal as well. Sanwa JLF in both cases. If you are going to want to make it stiffer, get a new heavier spring.

Also, this is off topic. This is the TE2/TE2+/TES+ EZ MOD thread which has nothing to do with the buttons and levers installed in these sticks.


Sorry, I’m new to this, just need to know how to get stiff responsive buttons.


Please use the search function of the forums. There are hundreds of discussions on personal preference on buttons and levers.


Just buy a button that is physically stiffer to push.

In general Seimitsu buttons are stiffer than Sanwa.


Thanks :smiley:


get seimitsu buttons.


or Sanwa RGs


Can you use a Neutrik USB port instead of the stock Pro Cable port?

My other question is that does the Left Stick/Right Stick/D-Pad function still work?


Sure. You just need to mod the case to make it fit and forgo the USB connectors on the EZ MOD.

For the TE2+ version, yes, the LS/RS/DP switch works.


Sorry if this is the wrong place to ask but is there a way to have the LS/RS/DP switch work on the old T.E.2 with the EZMOD pcb?


No, it would require a redesign of the board. I chose to not implement that in favor of setable buttons for the various other buttons on the UFB.


Oh I see, well thanks for the help.