actually no. the memory card port is on the bottom. like the xbox360 control.
i’m going to be doing another box this week strictly for xbox. so no db25 adapter on it. i’ll take pics of how i wire up the headset/memory port.
How is it with other games on xbox, works 100%? Does it work emulatorgames played on xbox also?
Oh, so it is possible to talk with headset when playing LIVE on it?
And when you hack it you do not need resistors like on the usual Xboxpad and Xbox S-Pad?
i haven’t tested it on other games really. I tested it on that Outrun game, but the game itself wouldn’t go past the LOADING screen with the control plugged (before the soldering in retail condition) so i’m guessing that games that actually need the sticks will have problems. so any games that don’t work with the actual sf:ac stick won’t work with this i guess.
it’s good for emulators no problems. there’s only ONE THING that i don’t really like. since there are no thumbsticks, you can’t press r.thumb to bring up the menu (90% of emulators on xbox use this button to bring up the ingame menu i havent checked if this can be changed.) i have a separate control in player 3’s slot for this so its not a very big problem.
well i play on xlinkKAI (modded xboxes get banned from live) and the headset works fine.
so it wouldn’t be any different than live. it would work fine on there to.
no resistors needed at all. drop-solder-plug-n-play. the triggers are pure digital not pressure sensitive or analog.
if you have any more questions go ahead and ask. i’ll be happy to answer.
I hacked a couple Madcatz microcon controllers. I’d say those were the easiest pads to hack ever. I only did the xbox ones, maybe the ps2 one is just as easy. It has huge holes in the pcb to solder to and has a shared ground. Nothing better than that!:wgrin:
do you have any pics of this pad hacked and soldered? price? availability? anything special needed like adding resistors? ( ie. like the oem xb control ) or is it straight solder and thats it?
i’m trying to pick up as many hackable pads as possible before all the xbox ones disappear.
and yes, a shared ground is awesome
Anyone know of any hacks for PC Pads?
Doesn’t the official DC pad have lag issues with L+R?
It would make much more sense to use a 3rd party controller that uses c+z instead of L+R, like the madcatz controller, or the agetec pcb.
We should also include the A series dual shock since it’s a simple solderless mod.
I’ll try and get some pics of my hacked model 1 saturn pad.
i love you avatar. also, if you build a stick from a psx/psone pad you can get a lagfree adapter from radioshack for $6 (no drivers needed in xp).
if you build one from an official xbox pad you can use the xbcd drivers if you make a usb adapter. a spare usb mouse and an xbox extension cable is all thats needed.
i’ll let you know if those drivers work with the sf:ac pad for xbox.
Thanks for the comment on the avatar.I already have a radioshack adapter that I’ve tried using with my Hori Real Arcade Pro but it lags. If using a psx/psone pad gets rids of the lag then I guess I’ll have to build a stick from it. Thanks.
So does anyone Have the lay out for a playstation M serious non analog control???
I think this is the Microcon from Madcats, for Xbox.
I’ve seen 3 or 4 different digital ps1 pad pcbs all by sony. It’s pretty easy to find the traces needed.
How do you hack this thing? I have whatever PS2 controller came with my PS2, just the regular ol’ regular PS2 controller, but it has this crazy ribbon thing in it. I think I know where I’d solder if I were to just solder wiring straight to the ribbon, but my guess is that there’s something different about this.
Anyone have experience with the Mad Catz MicroCon pads for Xbox 360 or PS2? Some seriously tiny PCBs would make my upcoming stick project much easier for me.
do have experiences wiring the thumb buttons? does the microcon need a resistor or anything one the stick like the OEM s ? also, if you have them, can you post a pic of how you would wire up the thumb.clicks to use a button?
reason i ask is because all the emulators on my xbox use the r.thumb.click to access the ingame menu.
The Microcon does not need use of any resistors what so ever.
I have never wired a button to the thumbstick"press-down"button, sorry.
i guess this is the best place to ask this:
i have two Agetec PCBs that are acting HELLA WEIRD. the Y button on one of them just doesn’t respond anymore, even when i didn’t do anything to the project box it was encased in. the other one is even weirder: the A button and the Start button seem shorted (i get taunts whenever i try to pause) but pressing the A button doesn’t respond at all.
i know they’re broke because i switched them out for my other agetec pcbs and they were all good. also, i’m sure it’s not the wiring because i didn’t rewire the new PCBs. i just pulled the connectors off the old boards and plugged them into the new ones.
anyone know what could be wrong with them?
Great thread! Been waiting for this forever.
wow, this therad rocks. THanks for the DC one, I was fretting about what to do with the analog. Seems a bit too simple though, do I jush short the upper left contact with ground? can anyone confirm?
Like chippermonkey, i was waiting so long for a thread like this!!! im a very proud owner of a sega dreamcast, but as a fighting game fanatic, im not all happy with the controls… damn analogs!!!
hey, someone posted that there were problems with the hacking of first party DC pads, like lagging with the L & R buttons… have someone experiencied this problem?
If so, does he managed to solve it, without buying an 3rd party pad???
Excellent thread!!! :lovin: :lol: