The Razer Arcade Stick Thread!

Razer stopped dealing with drivers in the normal sense a while back. You need to install synapse 2.0. Synapse will connect to the cloud and then download the drivers and update the firmware for all Razer devices. All your devices will be managed from synapse with one exception, virtual 3d surround (if you’re using it) is managed from it’s own program. Once everything is configured you can disconnect Synapse from the cloud if you want.

A word of advice, when they say don’t unplug stuff don’t. Don’t touch a fucking thing while Synapse is configuring it. I’ve broken more than a few deathadders with Synapse.

A lot of people hate Synapse and the entire cloud based driver model, but it’s actually not that bad once it’s up and running. If you’re keyboard and mouse are also Razer it’s one program to manage everything and update them as needed. If you have a Razer mousepad and headphones as well you can tell the software which ones they are and it will tweak the mouse sensor and 3d surround for them as well. It’s just obnoxious that you have to shut it down to disconnect it (doesn’t hurt anything once you’re configured) and more than a few people have bricked a mouse updating it.

@acerbic @xanderwolf - Since the stick is an officially licensed XBox controller, the XBox 360 Controller for Windows driver SHOULD properly detect the stick… But in Win 7 x64, several people have had issues with it. The several companies that make a stick don’t officially claim PC support, but if it works, it works. :slight_smile:

Anyway, check [this thread](Street Fighter IV Fightstick doesn’t have a driver After my original summary instructions were expanded upon, it seems to have helped a few people get their XBox 360 fightsticks working. Again, if it’s officially licensed to work on XBox 360, than any Windows PC with the driver properly installed should recognize it as such… It just sucks that Win 7 (at least the 64-bit version) seems to be picky about properly installing the driver. Windows 8 detects and installs the driver automatically.

I’m going to wire up an Atrox with a PS360+ PCB. What is the best way to hook up the USB cable to the PS360+ PCB?

Does anyone have final shots of the Atrox PCB?

Also, I’m guessing the glowing Razer logo is powered by a wire that is connected to the main PCB? So I can cut it and rewire to the PS360+ PCB?

I’m looking to dual mod the Atrox with a ChimpSMD, but I can’t figure out how to do it with the USB connector that’s attached to the Atrox PCB. (I realize that I could mount the ChimpSMD’s connector or use a Neutrik instead, but I’d rather only do that if I have to.)

Currently, when I connect the ChimpSMD to the USB part of the Atrox PCB (either with the connector pins underneath, or the labeled pins on the top of the board), the red and blue ChimpSMD lights flash on and off, and the PS3 side isn’t be recognized by my PS3 or PC. From what I’ve read, this can mean that there’s a power issue, which suggests to me that the ChimpSMD isn’t getting the signals properly through the USB feed-through.

Darksakul suggested, at least with the beta version of the Atrox PCB, that some resistors need to be removed for this mod to work, though the board has significantly changed, and I can’t quite tell if that’s the problem here or how I would locate the resistors on this new version of the PCB.

Here’s what I have so far:

http://i39.tinypic.com/2pynvgk.jpg

http://i42.tinypic.com/11uktts.jpg

Any help would be sincerely appreciated!

If you want to use the Atrox’s USB connector
You have to be able to cut some PCB traces.

Cut the Data - and Data + lines on the top side of the PCB going to that big USB connector, try to leave the Power and ground connections intact
If you do cut the power and Ground, you can bridge those lines with some wire.

solder the pins from the connector to the Cerberus
Now the wires from the Cerberus should be going to that secondary USB header.

Thank you very much for the quick response!

It seemed like I might have to do something like cutting a trace to get this to work. I’ve done trace cutting before, but I knowledge of it is limited and I want to make sure that it’s accurate. (Although, as you said, one could just wire up the lines if need be.)

Here’s a better picture:

http://i40.tinypic.com/tajvk3.jpg

Please, if you wouldn’t mind drawing another line, Mr. Darksakul. :slight_smile:

This might be helpful for anyone else wanting to mod an Atrox, too.

I haven’t had first hand experience of an Atrox board but have modded the Razer Beta. Instead of trace cutting couldn’t you just desolder the two 0 resistors for the data lines instead?

I don’t see the two Zero ohm resistors in that image. I can identify to traces.

@blueNINE
But issue is I don’t have the final version of the Atrox, I am 85% certain its those 2 traces in that white circle. If I had that PCB, I could find out for certain with a multimeter.

if you got a multimeter you can probe out and find where the 2 resistors are, desolder them and then attack your wires from there Cerberus to those points

I do have a multimeter, which is how I figured out the feed-through pinout, but I’m not sure how I’d figure out where the resistors are. Not sure if it would be worth it, but if it’s easy enough, I can give it a shot.

Again, thanks to everyone who is helping.

I want to say its those 2 traces by that white circle there BUT that is a guess on my part.
If you can carefully scrape up the solder mask (the green stuff) and probe around, you can see if I am right or not.

If you look at the last pic he posted there are 4 resistors just below the header pin for USB out. I’m assuming they can be used (L16 & L17)

Those aren’t resistors. They are inductors. Chokes for the data lines.

So Gummo how would you go about a Cerberus mod for the new Atrox PCB?

Cut the traces between the usb jack and the pin header. Wire up the usb jack to the USB OUT. Wire up the pin header to X360 IN.

Okay so I had originally though. Thanks.

^ Thanks for the clarification. A shame then that Razer made this change to the motherboard.

How it is a shame, if anything I can see how Dual-modding this PCB is now easier for me.

I rather cut some traces than have to desolder surface mounted components
I also have access to some live looking headers that it not be hard for me to solder wire to a pin connector and push onto the board headers, which for me its always a plus instead of soldering to the board it self.

Anytime you can make your work easily disassemble the better and I can keep my wiring clean; that is terrific.
It saves time to just pull off pin connectors to make changes over desoldering or cutting wire. The less changes you have to do on the PCB directly the better, as every time you have to resolder a board connection you are risking damage.

The stick has successfully been modded! Many thanks to everyone who helped! More info and pictures to come.

Also, the start and select buttons were incorrectly labeled in my diagram image. The image has been corrected and my post has been edited to use said corrected image.

After trying out and reading many reviews on various sticks. I finally settled on the Razer Atrox as my first stick. I’m a happy camper!!

One question is there an option to turn off the blinking razer logo?

yes. you can unplug the wire harness from the pcb. should also be able to just keep the led on by moving the harness connector over a spot.