The Sanwa and Seimitsu FAQ


I’m looking at the 2p astro city panel on the sanwa catalog atm and both sides look like the HRAP2 layout to me, just that the 2p side is angled about 20 degrees (but still the same layout) @_@


how would you choose between seimitsu 32 and the 01 model? Faq says they’re set up differently, so what’s the advantage in paying ~$1 extra for the 01 model?


For full details on the differences, please go to

The main difference is that the LS-32-01 has the microswitches attached to a PCB with a 5-pin output similar to the JLF series. The 5-pin cable (H5 pin) is included with the LS-32-01. The LS-32 does not have a PCB and you wire the live and the ground directly to the tabbed microswitches.

The secondary difference is that the LS-32-01 has an s-shaped mounting plate. LS-32 has a flat mounting plate.

On a side note, LS-32-01 PCBs are printed with LS-32-02 even though LS-32-02 does not exist in the catalog. TheRealNeoGeo explained to me that he believes this was due to a mistake by Seimitsu. Probably when they had to make a new PCB after problems with the original PCB. Thanks Per!

EDIT: I took the time to link pictures for parts throughout the first three posts. Parts are courtesy of Per and AkihabaraShop. Thanks again, Per! : )



package arrived, so I can update about PS-14-GN (seimitsu standard screw-ins) vs PS-14-K (seimitsu transparent button, snap-in) :wink:

the convexness of the plungers is the same, and the bezels are the same too (so it’s not the “flat” bezel of the standard snap-ins - but this was also clear from the pics on akihabarashop tough). the surprise is that the height of the plungers is actually different. PS-14-K is lower, and it doesn’t seem to have the typical “2 stage travel” of seimitsu screw-ins (which is well described in this thread).


why this thread isn’t stickied yet? :annoy: btw I have another n00by question :stuck_out_tongue:

I tried, but I couldn’t figure out HOW to solidly snap the rescrictor in, when turned 45 degrees. Any suggestion?



You should be able to separately rotate the centerpiece of the restrictor.


cool, I didn’t know it was possible to separate the central piece from the rest of the restrictor. thank you both very much and sorry again for the n00b question :smiley:


holy hell, i never noticed that. O_o thanks for pointing that out!


Well i always heard about the Sanwa Flash and stuff, and since this is a FAQ thread, I was hoping someone could answer questions of curosity. I know that the Sanwa Flash plays on optics and stuff rather than switches, but whats the real difference in like quality/build and playing with it. Would it might be similar to the P360 version.

Assuming TRNG is able to get Flash (fingers crossing), how would i go about it mounting/installing it. Let’s say like a hrap or something. I know about the 5 pin, but the 3 pin for voltage, what do i do with this (as u can see, i’m not really bright with joysticks or electronics for the matter of fact.).

Thanx for any answers.


I don’t think mods with sticky this thread since they are trying to keep the stickies to a minimum. It would be nice for it to be included in the Essential Stick Building Thread or whatever though. Oh well, doesn’t matter to me.

The Sanwa Flash is basically a JLF stick with a different PCB. You also have a few extra things like the 3-pin which is used for the 5V (to power optics), rubber ring, and clear plastic ring (both used between the PCB and the base of the stick).

Being the same as the JLF, it uses the same mounting plates and can be mounted the same exact way. It also uses the same restrictors/gates as the JLF.

I will probably add a Flash1 section to the FAQ soon, since Per is probably going to get the Flash1 back for us even if it is a limited run.



I’m looking to make my first stick using a sanwa JLF-TP-8YT. Never made a joystick before so really very new to this.

I WAS planning on using a 1/2" thick surface as the top surface of my base (probably using MDF), looking at the pics of the sanwa sticks and mounting plates it appears that the plate sits on top of the main components (of the joystick) with the stick coming out from that. So in 1/2" thick board would I be attaching the mounting plate to the underside with the stick obviously sticking through a hole?

That seems to be how to mount the stick, but this would leave very little shaft (after going through 1/2" of board) sticking out the top.

If this is the correct way of mounting the stick is it possible to use 1/4" board with a circular hole for the stick and another 1/4" board underneath it with the hole for the stick/mounting plate?


Your post was kind of convoluted but basically if you top you have to make a hole through the top panel that is are enough to fit the base of the joystick. In addition to that you must make a recess around that hole so that the mounting plate will sit inside of it. When you’re done with the top panel it should look something like this:

When you put the JLF in that area, the mounting plate and joystick will fit in that area and the mounting plate will be BELOW the top panel. NOT sitting on top. It should not even be flush with the top panel otherwise it will be sitting a little too high.

Hope that is helpful. If you want, you can read my other thread and find out more, but I do not suggest you follow it since it’s a more advanced method of building sticks that only TheRealNeoGeo (you could call him my mentor, heh heh) and myself use, but there might be some other helpful information for you.



Cheers Paik, sorry if I wasn’t very clear with my question, but you’ve given me the answer I needed anyway.

edit* How do you make a recess? is there a particular tool or method for doing that? (sorry I did electrics at school instead of woodwork)


That’s my journal/tutorial on how I build my sticks. You don’t want to follow it honestly because it’s too advanced for you at this stage. But there is a section for mounting the joystick. Check there. If you have any ore questions post up again either here or in that thread.



OooooOOO get you! :rofl:

Sorry I had already found that thread and had already answered my own question. Should of posted back to say i’d managed.

So far i’ve got my sanwa stick and buttons ready and waiting and have cut my MDF to size this morning, found a friend that owns a router and will be over this coming week to make my recess for the stick. Cheers again for the help, much appreciated.


T5 stick mod question:

T5 stick mod question:
Can I put in a sanwa LB30N instead of JLF joystick


Yes, you can just replace the stock balltop on the T5 stick with the LB30N bat top.



On the US T5 stick, can a seimitsu ls-32/ls-32-01 be installed? i noticed the mounting area is not the same as the hrap series as the hori stick is not mounted on with a plate so would i need the ls-32 flat mounting plate or the ls-32-01 s-shape mounting plate? or no mounting plate? thanks.


Yes, you can mount an LS-32. You will probably have to drill new holes in your mounting plate or the brackets on the T5 since I dont’ believe they will align. You will want an s-shaped plate since the LS-32 has a shorter shaft and you will want it to mount as high as possible. Since you will want the s-shaped plate, I would recommend just going and getting the LS-32-01. It comes stock with the s-shaped plate and with a PCB and wires harness which make things easier anyway.