The story of how I ghetto rigged my SF2 JAMMA cabinet to HD


#1

Little backstory. One of my friends (Thanks Jesse Cardenas!) gave me one of these since he happened to have three of them. Little note to anyone who has never had one, they are heavy as hell.

I decided to put a J-PAC board in there so that I can hook up a MAME PC with a modded video card so that it be displayed on the 320 x 240 CRT. The setup was pretty ghetto. I had a tower sitting on the right side and PC speakers bolted to the outside. Well one day lighting struck and fried the PC and CRT. As mentioned before, that damn thing was too heavy to haul anywhere and throw away so I decided to fix it. Well when I took the CRT out, I noticed that there was a LOT of room where it used to sit. Then I pondered to myself, “Hey, I can fit a PC and LCD with all this room!” So I researched some LCD’s that fit the dimensions that were now offered to me and now I bring to you GAF, my ghetto HD Mame cabinet!

First thing’s first, I need to spec out a PC that would be fast enough for SF4AE. I opted for an Intel i3-3225, 4GB of RAM, ASRock Mini ATX B75M-DGS (comes with SATA 6.0Gbps for the SSD), 500W Antec, Transcend 128GB SSD, Geforce GTX 460SE and Windows 7 Pro x64. Here it is mounted on a piece of wood :smiley:

http://70.38.64.76/e/1/e30934b7-aae2-4bd7-b047-44aac73bcad4.jpg

And here it is mounted inside!

http://70.38.64.76/e/1/2a8d8e48-18a7-46ad-bbf1-380f2a818ad2.jpg

Here is a picture of the power button and speaker control along with the USB ports rigged to the side of the cabinet. (another USB has been added since then)

http://70.38.64.76/e/1/37d05b47-22a1-40e5-93ea-1b213c078c9f.jpg

I added two fans. One on the right next to the video card

http://70.38.64.76/e/1/e5c1981d-8ffe-4d63-bb18-a6fc09048e99.jpg

And one on the back

http://70.38.64.76/e/1/ce49fc0e-9de8-4582-9901-158ad75ad522.jpg

I gutted the power supply of the JAMMA cabinet and it was responsible for the light of the marquee. So I had to buy a new light shown here

http://70.38.64.76/e/1/3d3b0200-9128-4c8f-ab10-bbbffd53f5f5.jpg

What’s cool about this light was that it was mounted on that white of wood that came off fairly easy. When I took it off, I noticed there was only ONE speaker behind there. So I ripped it off and zip tied some Logitech speakers shown here :smiley:

http://70.38.64.76/e/1/6616f070-ad97-4a3d-9da3-86e09af2be01.jpg

Here is the subwoofer bolted down into the cabinet

http://70.38.64.76/e/1/cb94d0a2-6a1f-457f-b8f1-5f71a125ec80.jpg

Now with that done, I wanted to get a new marquee so I found a pic on the internet and had one custom made

http://70.38.64.76/e/1/d90040b7-1624-481a-9423-677d84bb0b18.jpg

I also gutted the mechanics behind the coin slot, ghetto zip tied some buttons on there and configured MAME to “insert coin” when pressed :smiley:

http://70.38.64.76/e/1/dac49075-a8ad-42bd-81ea-e4df3964ab4c.jpg

Now with everything set, I need to mount the LCD somehow. I went to Home Depot and bought a silver metal thingy to sit the LCD on and some shelf thingies :slight_smile:

http://70.38.64.76/e/1/757f0dd1-1014-4124-95c2-a4cbc28bd625.jpg

After putting velcro on the mount and shelf thingies, I placed the LCD in and it was sturdy and stable!

http://70.38.64.76/e/1/85ff6cd8-2f55-49d6-a39b-d5ad1e23e8cf.jpg

To hide the unsightly surroundings of the LCD, I made the cover out of thick styrofoam paper

http://70.38.64.76/e/1/e2284d44-dde0-48d1-8fda-ba5c8dc179a8.jpg

And here is the finished product!! I also put in LED buttons for bling factor. The buttons look brighter than they should be since I took the video in the dark

Other pics

Handcuffs :smiley:

http://70.38.64.76/e/1/a5deca42-2c52-458f-b5bb-966182ddf5bf.jpg

http://70.38.64.76/e/1/6ff68302-9d10-450b-b848-ba17e866dc47.jpg

http://70.38.64.76/e/1/36eab720-1638-4daa-89d9-afba88ce68cf.jpg


#2

Just had to ask, how much time and resources went into this? I’m asking because a local Optometrist around the corner has this cab for waiting patients. It’s in pretty bad condition and I’m told it’s never been serviced all these years.

Because I noted that playing these games were an interest, they’re letting it go for nothing so long as I can cart it over two streets. The two main issues are pretty bad burn in on the screen (got to see it off for the first time ever), and 2P’s buttons are smashed to death. Everything else was cosmetic with the cab itself, easy work for me.

As I write this, I am wondering…If…IF I have to junk it, is there anything worth keeping in case? I’m just breaking into learning all this stuff.


#3

unless he says the normal “I had all this in a closet” its about $2000-$2500. For Complete remodel to a cab.
I have done a few.


#4

nice! ajibabalayyyyyyyy


#5

You’re joking right. There is now way its going to cost that much to remodel a junk up cab. The only thing you really need to worry about is fitting in/mount and LCD. With that type of money you’re spending might as well just get a Kraylix cab or Kraylix head2head.

What are you planning to do? Do you want to restore it with original parts? Want to put in computer monitor or LCD widescreen? PC or console? American or Japanese controls/buttons? The cab you’re getting does it already have 6 buttons?

Also lugging it around isn’t that heavy at all. All you need is a Dolly.


#6

At this point I’m hoping to land some dope CPS2 B boards and run with that. I’d prefer CRT but could manage otherwise. I highly doubt it’d be a showcase model, just something to keep busy and play some games. I’m not too thrilled about the cabinet being upright, I’m far too spoiled with sitting down. At the same rate, I’m open to suggestions considering I wasn’t hunting one down, I just threw the question out there getting new glasses lol. I wasn’t gunna argue with that.The cab has American Happy parts, stock presumably. Nothing looks rotted, corroded, etc… just some cleaning and the cab part should be dope. Optimally I’d probably opt to switching to Sanwa parts, new CRT and new game. I’d keep the external cabinet appearance as is without painting, etc. Where it’s going in the house, it won’t matter what it looks like or be seen by anyone. Looking more into investing for higher quality parts rather than cosmetics. I’m getting it in a few days but probably wouldn’t start work on it until a month or so from now, life throws those curveballs haha.

Also, 6 button 2 player setup. I can’t do American so I’d be switching regardless.


#7

You could chop like 1-2ft off of the bottom of the cab. Maybe chop out the middle and use brackets on the inside to join the two halves, and preserve the bottom with its casters or whatever.

If you have a metal CP, someone pointed out that you can screw a JLF to holes that match up on a JLW bracket, and mount the JLW bracket in the Happ holes. For buttons you should be able to widen them but check that they’re not so close together that 30mm buttons won’t fit, since I think measuring the rim they’re a few mm wider than Happ buttons. There’s also Crown buttons which are 28mm and will probably fit outright.


#8

How bad is the burn-in? As long as you boot up the game & not noticeable i really recommend you just keep it. But if you do decide to get a replacement you can usually find them in craigslist on the cheap or sign up to the KLOV forum. I try not to mess with arcade monitors well cuz i dont want to get shocked to death.

As for the controls, you would need a dremel to widen the button holes. The only stock japanese stick that fitted my Dynamo cab was a Sanwa JLW but im pretty sure there are mounting plate now these days that can work. I believe there was universal mounting plate someone made. As for it being stand up & you can just buy a bar stool.

Here is my old SF2 cab that i did the convert on.