Thoughts on Sanwa JLF 'Ultimate Mod'


I’m sure a few of you have seen this video: [media=youtube]QytcbzZmXaI&feature=related[/media] brought to us from the Akihabara Shop.

For those of you that have done this mod, does it make the joystick feel a lot nicer in your opinion? Pros & cons?

I was thinking of doing this for my Seimitsu stick but wanted to know the thoughts of others who have done this mod before I do it myself.


I get e-mails from people loving it (lots of e-mails actually). The trick is to mod it enough so you personally like it. The tape for example, use a shorter piece if the one in the video is too much for you.
I did this mod because we sell a lot of Hori Real Arcade Pros at akishop and not all of the customers know how to change the joystick from Sanwa to Seimitsu or if it is even possible on some models off the HRAP so they can only use the JLF and I thought why not make it better?


Like Per has said, the trick is to mod it the way it feels the best for you. I followed the tutorial, but did it differently to suit my preference (and limitation of tools etc). I love the mod ALOT! IMO the control and precision of the JLF becomes better than a Seimitsu LS-32, which was my preference before modding my JLF. I now find pullng off pretty much any special move in HD Remix alot easier.

The mod I did was:

  • microswitch mod, using folded post-it, but 1 less fold than per used in the video, as I think my post-it note was slightly thicker than the post-it note Per used. I think using any thicker than 0.4mm causes the microswitch get stuck in the ON position after being activated once (which is what was happening to one of my switches).

  • Spring mod, using 2 JLF-SP springs instead of using the seimitsu spring Per used in the video. Only reason I did this was because I only had 2 JLFs, so I had to sacrifice 1 JLF to mod the other JLF, but after doing this I was happy with the stiffness. I don’t know how the resistance feels like in Per’s mod, but I’m happy with what I came out of my own experiment, so I fixed the springless JLF with the same mods.

I tried the Tape mod, but I only had regular tape, and not electrical tape, so it didn’t work out so great, but it feels greats to me without the tape mod.

At one point I tried this without the microswitch mod (because I took the post-it notes out after finding the microswitch locking up) and it was really not good. Even though the stick was stiffer, hitting the directions didn’t feel right and in HD Remix I had trouble executing DP motions.

One thing to keep in mind if you are going to mod a LS-32-02. It doesn’t use an E clip for the stick, but instead uses another clip, and requires a special tool to take it off properly. I tried a mod on my LS-32-02, but since I didn’t have the tool to operate the clip it was a real pain to take it on and off while experimenting (I used a pair of cuticle scissors, which almost screwed up the clip and really hurt my fingers). I also found the microswitches alot harder to open also. It might be worth changing the clip on the LS-32 with an E clip (if it fits) for easier removal and reattaching.


I like it. I took out the microswitch mod because–just as it did for eggy–it was causing the switches to stick. i didn’t want to be bothered with the prospect of having to go in and open the stick up later because it started sticking again.

everything else rocks.


What exactly is this mod designed to do?

  1. More resistance when moving the joystick.

  2. Less dead-zone.

  3. Faster “switching” for the microswitches.


Try it with 1 less fold in your post-it note. One less fold in my post-it note fixed the sticking switch for me. The sticking only occured in 1 of my switches, but I reduced the thickness of the post-it note in all 4 of the switches so they were equal.

I was also unsure of what the mod was for initially, but after trying it (out of curiousity) I feel that it makes the stick return to centre quicker, and helps keep motions smaller, since the switches activate faster. I find stock JLFs too loose, with the stick flopping around too much, which means unprecise direction input for me.

If you’ve got a spare JLF, pull the spring out of it and stick it into another JLF and see how it feels. Also try the microswitch and tape mod to see if it makes a difference to you. Can’t hurt to give it a go, and it’s really safe and easy to do. Just make sure you hold the plastic actuator (the part that hits the microswitches) down when you are taking the E clip off a stick that has the spring inside, or the clip will go flying and you might lose it forever :stuck_out_tongue: (I almost did the first time, and I’m glad I didn’t lose an eye when it went ricocheting around my computer desk and on to the carpet near my feet - phew :looney: ).


Thanks man (and eggy too), I take it this mod is necessary because there isn’t a stock joystick that comes close to the “feel” of a Sanwa JLF with this mod? Thanks again for the help you guys.


is this for people with execution problems(seriously)? i’ve always been able to do what I wanted on a stock jlf


I am confused by this statment. I thought the point of this mod was to convert the feel of a sanwa JLF to a semitzu LS. People do this cause they cant mount a Semitzu on certain HRAP panels. Am I wrong in my thinking here?


It’s also useful for people who play SHMUPs if they want to get the short throw and fast return of an LS-32 without actually getting an LS-32. I’ve still gotta do this mod on my own JLF, Radiant Silvergun and Ikaruga demand it! You just can’t play them with a JLF.


Does anybody know if you can use the micro switch of a JLF and plug it on a LS-56/LS-33 plasitc panel instead of the ones that comes with them?


You mean the microswitches on the TP-MA? They looks totally different:


For LS-33:

For LS-56:

For LS-56-01:


I actually did a little diffrent mod to mine. I took a dry erase pen and cut it up to fit over the area you would put tape then sanded it down to where it felt good. I dont have any pics yet but I’ll take some and post them later. It works like a dream so far and is easly removable and cant fall off or wear out like tape. I’m experimenting with reshaping the octagonal gate right now sanding out the corners so it’s kind of a square octagon hybrid. I like to know where my corners are :smiley: I want to have my friend who works with plastic molding at school make me a custome plate but we’ll see. Anybody else doing anything like this?


I just did the actuator mod for my Seimitsu LS-56.

Feels amazing. Definitely recommended to anyone who has a bit of free time (5-10 mins) and want’s to get a all around nicer feel.

‘TheRealNeoGeo’ thanks again for the video :wink:

Just advice for anyone who wants to do the actuator mod for the LS-56, the amount of tape that is necessary is 55mm x 5mm. ANY more tape than that and the microswitches will be set on permanent activation dude to too much tape. I even tried the smallest bit of extra tape and that didn’t work. So stick with only 55mm x 5mm and you should be fine.


Hmm sounds interesting,

looking forward to seeing the pics.


hmmm interesting to know as well

but as for the microswitch mod, don’t use post it, I believe it sticks because paper tend to open up or get mushy after period of usage.

Instead of using folded post it, you can use card board, thin plastic, just anything that has resistance toward wear

I actually over did the mod at the first time, on the actuator, I used two round of electric tape instead of one round. thicker card board compare to the folded post it notes.

the result was that the stick became way too sensitive, roughly any motion will be register if I just move it roughly 4 mm from the center… lol



Thanks for replying. In the pics the holes seems identical but are you saying the size of the switches prevent it from being mounted on a LS56 or LS33?


what actuator mod?



what actuator mod?[/QUOT

You put some electrical tape around the actuator so that the actuator hits the microswitches a little bit quicker.

It shows you in the first vid I posted.


Looks interesting and maybe it will help me with my execution since I still have problems pulling off an air tatsu :sweat: