To achieve a perfect slant?


#1

I’m creating my second custom stick, but this time I’m using Sanwa parts as opposed to Happ and I would like to have a slant in my case. I cut my wood according to Byrdo’s Small Sanwa Case Blueprint. (Will provide pic if you need it.)
I’ve been searching around all over the web, but haven’t really come up with any adequate solutions.

The back piece is 3.25"- H, and the front piece is 2.75"- H (0.5" Incline from front to back). Without any modification, when I lay these pieces together, they are clearly not flush.
Now, In my head, I imagine that I will need to bevel the top of the back and front pieces to a certain degree, but I have absolutely no idea what degree this would be, and how to even achieve such a thing.
I do have a table saw, so these types of cuts would appear to be relatively simple.

Is there any sort of tips, or any information anybody can provide me? Would be greatly appreciated. Thank you …

Edit: I don’t really want to start a new thread, but I’m sorta confused as to achieving a perfect mount with my JLF-TP-8T.
I really want to make sure that I get my joystick exactly in the middle of the 24mm hole. Is there any tricks, or do I just have to trust my measuring skills?
Also, I’m using 3/4" MDF for the control panel as the recipe calls for, how deep into the panel should I route for the mounting plate. I have a 5/8" straight router bit. Will this do fine, or should I get a different size?

Sorry for all the newbish questions, but I really want to make sure this stick is done perfect. My happ was sort of a disaster (didn’t have ANY of the right tools at the time), which is the reason for starting over in the first place. Also, sorry if this has been discussed, but let it be known that I did a fair bit of searching before I gave up.

Edit: Sorry, I forgot to mention that I will be bottom mountain the JLF to a single panel 3/4" MDF with .093" Plexi on top of the panel.

Thanks again


#2

Can’t help you with the slant question but there something to look over for mounting the the JLF written by some guy named Timoe(TMO Gaming.) Rumor is that he builds sticks, not really sure though since I never see his work around here. This shows how to mount a HAPPS style stick but you can apply the principle to a JLF. The distance should be 23mm-24mm between the bottom of the ball top and the top of the control panel so you figure out how deep you need to route out.

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=51235.0


#3

I’ve been already writing some of this stuff for my sites next update.

There are a couple options to do it roughly. After putting the pieces together, you could put masking tape on parts that are already square and file or sand the parts that need to be angled. Or if you HAPPEN to have a large planer, set if on an angle and run it through.

The other option is angle cutting. Since we’re dealing with triangle measurements, you’re talking about Pathagorean and sin cos tan stuff. Once you get a single angle, you can use it throughout.

As an example, I looked up that Byrdo blueprint, which shows the side has dimensions of 8" x 2.75-3.25". So it rises 1/2" over the distance of 8". That means if has a slope of 1/16 (this can be useful). To turn the slope into an angle, do the inverse tangent of the slope, which gets 3.58 degrees. Cutting the back and front sides and even the panel with this angle can make them more flush.

That Byrdo blueprint image doesn’t even make much sense to me. And it’s like Byrdo really has a specific blueprint.

As for centering the joystick, first thing I would recommend would be laying the mounting plate against the panel and drilling the bolt holes first. The four (or two) bolt holes are going to determine how well your joystick is centered more than anything else.

As for the depth to putting the joystick in the panel, if you want the joystick to stick out about 24mm and you are bottom-mounting in 3/4" MDF and .093 acrylic, you would do 32mm (about the space between the mounting plate and ball top) minus 24mm equals 8mm, then you would subtract that from .75 + .093 + background thickness, and that would be your routing depth in the bottom.


#4

Slag, you are a genius. Your website has already been incredibly helpful and now you come out with this. I thank you kindly good sir.

I agree on the Byrdo blueprint. There is a definite skibbywonkas feel to it.

Thanks for the link Zombie, should be of great use.


#5

Hmm, is there any JLF mounting patterns drawn to scale out there?

Having a hard time getting the mounting plate off of the stick. I started to strip 1 of the 4 screws on top and tried about 10 different sized phillip heads, but none seem to grip it to perfection.


#6

I remember reading something about holding a soldering iron to the screw long enough to heat up the glue which makes easy to get it out.


#7

Those JFL screws that hold the mounting plate down are a pain in the ass. I used a PH0 sized screw head to get them out, but not without applying lots of pressure and screwing very slowly. Even when I get them out the bottoms of them have green on them showing that they touched the PCB. Whoever works with the machines that do that need to adjust the settings or something!!!

How I got my JFL centered is I printed out the top panel layout with the 24mm button hole where it should be, placed the mounting plate over it, drew around the mounting plate area, and then cut around the mounting plate area. I have 2 layers underneath the lexan instead of one big 3/4 piece.


#8

Awesome, thanks for the added info guys. Has really helped the overall process.

Now, after I have my joystick mounted, I realize that it is not 100% centered. It is pretty dang close, but definitely noticeable.
I was wondering… Is it really even that necessary to have it perfectly centered? I played around with it for a bit while it was mounted and realized the shaft never hits any part of the wood. So to me, I imagine that it would not disrupt my motions in any way.
Is there any purpose to being perfectly centered besides it being aesthetically pleasing? I would understand if it touches the wood, but it doesn’t.

Other than that, the stick building process has gone over pretty well. Just a few more things before I dowel/glue, let it set, and then I should be able to beast on it. :slight_smile:
Frustrating at times, but super fun all the same. Learned quite a few lessons out of experience to put into my next build, and that makes me feel much more confident overall.

Once again, thank you for all the replies. It is greatly appreciated.


#9

Any ideas?


#10

After routing and mounting my JLF, I realize that top mounting on multiple layers is much more practical. I might just have to have screws showing on top with nuts on the bottom to keep it secure. Even if the screws are small enough to screw from the bottom and not show up on the top, I don’t feel like they have enough wood to grip to to stay there very long. sigh
Oh the trials and tribulations. Also just considering starting over on the control panel and doing multiple layers. I don’t know.