To those who modify their JLF's and custom stick


I’m curious about how many people actually modify their JLF’s. From what I understand, you can change the restrictor plate (which I already have an octagon on), the spring, and something called the actuator. I know what the gate does, but what about the spring and the actuator? How many of you actually modify your JLF’s? What mods do you use?



You missed a few. Practically everything in the JLF can be modded.

Gate = changes shape and/or throw distance
Spring = changes tension of the stick (ie, how stiff is the stick)
Actuator = changes engage distance and/or throw distance
Microswitches = changes engage distance and/or sound level of clicks
Shaft = changes height of stick
Balltop/Bat-top = changes the feel of the top


I have switched out the microswitches, actuator, and gate. You can actually get all of it in a convenient kit from


If you really want to tune a JLF, is where you need to go. IMO, the best thing you can do to a JLF is throw some Cherry switches on it with a .5mm oversized actuator. It’s quiet but still has a little bit of audio feedback and with the 1/2 mm oversized actuator engages like the stock switches with the popular 1mm oversized actuator. Really the possibilities are endless. I recommend buying guarantee a few actuators and different spring (I don’t recommend anything over 4lbs tension) to experiment. The parts are cheap and it’s a lot of fun tuning it until you make it feel just how you like it.


Spring, actuator, circle restrictor, bat top, Rollie flash. First three are required, second two I did for preference.


I just installed a Kowal actuator and a washer underneath the e-clip, but the stick seems to be slightly off from neutral. Is this normal?


I find it difficult to find parts that pertains to changing the height of the jlf shaft. From what I searched, I need to look for an ascii dreamcast stick shaft, which is costly and a huge inconvenience. Any alternatives out there?


@Archdesigner03‌ have you tried paradisearcade?


Why would I need a circle gate? I use an octagon gate. Also that kit you linked is a silencer kit. I really don’t care about silencing whatsoever.

How hard are these things to install? I actually want the joystick to have less resistance but snap back just as fast so I can flick it in the motion I want. Right now it has too much resistance for my taste.

Can someone just dumb it down for me? Itemize exactly what I need to buy. Also - what does my TE - S currently have on it in terms of spring weight and anything else I need to know - for a starting point. Cherry switches on a joystick? Aren’t those only for the buttons?

I really appreciate all of the help! I want to get this customized for me asap :slight_smile:

EDIT: I thought most pros used square gates? Also - I know EG has to use Razer sticks because its their sponsor, but do you think they change out the buttons and mod the JLF?

Since my TE-S fell my joystick has been acting funny. I feel like its not hitting all of the inputs as seamlessy as it should. How difficult would it be to replace the whole JLF? Is one different than another or do I just go to one of those parts sites and buy a JLF. I’m currently using my TE (original version). I asked on another thread but never got an answer. Is there any real difference between the TE and the TE-S besides the case? Don’t they use the exact same parts? There was mention of a PCB problem but no one told me what that was. Its not a lag thing, is it?


Thanks, I found it on their website. However, they are only selling it with the RBG kit…

I guess I’ll shoot them an email if they are willing to sell just the shaft.


Custom shaft sizes and top mount removal. And great price.


@Cagan‌ you want a heavier spring. The stock JLF spring is 1lb, the most popular spring rate for those who bother to adjust is 2lbs. Cherry DGs were time honored joy stick switches. The rise of Sanwa and Siemitsu saw the disappearance of Cherry as the top brand of joy switches (that and the fact that Happ stopped using them and went to the inferior Zippy switches). Many still feel that Cherry switches are superior (50 million presses MTBF vs 10 million presses MTBF).

Switching out the whole joy assembly is beyond easy, but you are still stuck with the crap ass spring resistance.


If you suspect your lever is damaged, replace the jlf pcb assembly. Easy and cheap ($12, no soldering), will give you all new lever microswitches, and if the problem is something else (not likely), you’ll have an extra handy, which is nice.

The te-s is not known to have any pcb problems.

You could buy a lighter spring for less resistance, but the stick isn’t going to snap back as fast. If you want really light resistance with a faster snap back, try a hori hayabusa.


Anyone know someone who likes to ‘flick’ for supers stick settings are? I’d be interested to see what someone’s setup is for flicking in the same style that I like to use (just have issues using it).

There’s a lot of information here and I really appreciate it. Could I theoretically buy a Hori stick and put it in my mad catz TE to try it?

So to recap, I need a 2lb spring, a kowal actuator, and cherry dg’s? Or I get a few springs and a few actuators? Which actuators should I buy? I don’t mind throwing some money at this to figure out what works best. What’s a “rollie flash”?

Any links to the stuff I should buy would be helpful. All of this is easy to install, including those cherry switches correct? I saw a thread on here made by someone who was having issues putting his stick back together. I think he may have forgotten the order of where to put the clip.

Also - why did someone say I should get a circle restrictor gate? I was under the impression that most pros used squares, and that it was mostly preference anyway. was recommended in this thread. I don’t care if its silenced though. I asked about this before but didn’t get a response. If I don’t care about silencing, is that still a good kit to get? Also, what are those inserts and the harness that is sold in that kit? Do I need them when buying springs, actuators and switches? Are there other switches I should be getting or just the cherry ones? Are the cherry switches better because they help to improve performance? Or better just because they last longer?

I’m sorry if I’m asking too many questions and being annoying. I’m just really excited about getting into Street Fighter and want to get all of the tools to be the best I can be!


What I would buy (and have bought):

.5mm OS, 1mm OS, 1.5mm OS

1.5lb, 2lb, 3lb, 4lb

Rollie Flash is an optical PCB that eliminates switches in favor of LEDs that track the movement of the actuator. Pretty slick piece of tech.

I think the person that suggested a circle gate did so on their own personal preference. If you are happy with square I say stick with it. Square gates are much more common so if you can play on them then you should be able to pick up whatever stick and feel right at home.

That silencer kit is ok. Paradise Arcade has a similar kit. The harness is for the switches. They aren’t attached to a PCB like the stock JLF ones. You will need this type of harness for any loose switch mod including Cherry. If you aren’t interested in silent switches don’t worry about either.

Cherry last longer but I like them because they are a little quieter and the pin shape is such that they engage a little bit sooner. They are a little less stiff than stock switches so a slightly stiffer spring is typically used in conjunction . I recommended this based on my own preference. Maybe try mods with the stock switches first and try other switches later. If you have the money and want to experiment go for them. The only other really common switches for JLF are silent ones. There really is a lot of stuff you can do with switches. Use the search tool on the site to find the numerous threads about the subject. @Moonchilde has a pretty comprehensive ongoing snap action switch thread with a wealth of knowledge. He will tell you that levered switches make all the difference on JLF. I tend to agree. There are levered Cherry switches that I have been trying to get my hands on too. No luck yet but I don’t give up.

Tech Talk is here for the purpose of answering this type of question. No worries. Ask away.

For those about to mod. We salute you :wink:


Circle restrictors are a favorite of old timers who grew up in the US arcade scene in the 80s and early 90s. Happs/IL are naturally circle. Diagonals can be tougher, but 360/720 motions are significantly easier.


D2RV-G switches are going to change the feel of the stick a good bit. I don’t think they’re very high tension so you need to get a higher tension spring. They also engage deeper so you need a larger actuator, too.

Right now I’m really loving the JLW. It’s one of my favorite sticks, and one of the only sticks I’ve ever been able to play stock without any issues. Every other stick I’ve played on I’ve modified to some extent. If anyone is looking for a great out of the box stick, the JLW is a must. I second the LS-40 after that.


I second the JLW recommendation. I’ve got six JLW sticks and I love them. Beefier than japanese parts, more precise than American parts, the best of both worlds.


So wait, is the JLW a sanwa? And the D2RV’s are cherry?

How hard is it to do all of this? If I want to replace the whole stick, or mod it?

So I know what actuators and springs to get. Great! Are there different types of cherry switches? Which ones do I get? What about brands of everything? Is it all the same? Which site is best to buy this all on?

Thanks again for all your help guys. I really really appreciate it!


Yes the JLW is Sanwa, old school Sanwa, only the JB-1 and the JL-1 is older (both the JB-1 and the JL-1 is discontinued).
The JLW is kinda built like an American style joystick but with none of the issues with lack of precision.

The JLW is the only Japanese joystick that can handle the larger Sanwa 45mm ball top and aluminum ball tops and bat tops without spring mods.
Put a Sanwa 45mm ball top on a JLF (without a spring mod) and the JLF becomes a weak sloppy mess.