Triple PCB arcade stick

First of all hi to everyone (it’s my first post here after a couple of months of tech stuff reading :wgrin:)
I play a lot DoA4 and till 4 months ago I always used the pad for all my fighting games thinking that it was more faster and preciser than the arcade stick.
But with this wonderful 360 D-pad I was having hard time getting what I wanted so I decided to give a try to arcade sticks and my only choice on the 360 was the Hori Fighting Stick EX2.
Immediatly I found it more responsive then the pad (in general not of that 360 crap) but I had a lot of problem finding the diagonals but with some practice after a few days was all ok.
Then I decide to give a second chance to Virtua Fighter 5 that the first time seemed so slow and not so exicitng like DoA games after I spended a tons of time reading forum to learn how to play the game and seeing how much things you can do in VF.
But here came the first problem with the EX2 stick.
On DoA I was able to do half-circular all day long without missing one but on VF I got some little problem on the Kage’s triple half-circular P.
So searching for solution to my problem on the forum I found you shoryuken community!
Here I discovered an entire fantastic new world!
I discovered this new world of the 2D fighting games (before S.C.,, I play just a few times some Guilty Gear and some Street Fighter but less then a 2 hours total!) and I’m waiting for SFIV and Capcom vs Tetsunoko.
Here on TechTalk I read everything, from basic to advance and now I’m posting to let you know that I’m starting to build a TRIPLE PCB ARCADE STICK (gamecube,xbox 360,ps3) :woot::woot::woot:
I now that is a big project for a noob but I’ll not rush anything and following this uberguide and with your help, I hope :wink:, I think I could do it.
Here it is the first question.
I can’t decide between 6 or 8 buttons layout.
I know that all new fighting games use a maximum of 6 buttons but which are the cons?

I personally like and use 6, but if any of the games you plan on playing require more than 6, go for an 8 button layout.

I want to play DoA4,VF5,SFIV,Capcom vs Tetsunoko,SC4,Tekken6,and future Guilty Gear.
I think that 6 buttons is the right choice but I don’t want to left some good games outside.
Having 8 buttons could create some problem like pushing for error this 2 buttons added?

that’s always a possibility but if you map the buttons to have no input in the game, it won’t be too bad. There aren’t any fighting games that I know of that have more than six basic buttons though.

i have an 8 button layout for my SNK games (I like have 4 in a row) but I will be building my next stick as a 6 button. I never hit the other buttons by accident but they usually are not mapped as anything of importance.

I think that I’ll go for a 6 buttons layout but I’m open to other consideration.
What about the ps3 PCB?
I’d like to use a ps2 PCB but I think that that PS button will be cut out or not?
I could use a sixaxis too but I don’t really want it wireless.
Pulling away its battery is sufficent for making it wire only?

I think Vewlix 7buttons layout (SFIV arcade for example) is the best, you can paly 6buttons, or the 4 on top for the old SNK layout and you’ll still have layout for new SNK, GG, DoA and VF.

you can find pcbs that and ps2 and ps/ps3 at the same time. (like the one from this stick)

I own one of those pcb and want to dual mod it with a 360 madcatz arcade.
I’d like to add a gamecube controller pcb to that to play Tastunoko Vs Capcom, but I’m not sure how complicated that would be.

Welcome to SRK Forums and good luck with your project !

The 7 buttons layout is interesting :wonder:

The problem with the ps/ps2 pcb is only the absence of the PS button for accessing the dashboard durign the game offline but most of all during online play for friend messages and other stuff.
The problem with the ps3 pcb is that I want it to be only wired and not wireless for 2 reason:
1-faster signal’ speed
2-the same button will be associeted with the Xbox dashboard and to the PS3 dashboard and if I’ll plug the wire of the 360 pcb I want that pressing this button will let me access the xbox dashboard excluding the PS3 dashboard. But if the PS3 pcb is wireless and with its own battery pressing this button will also activate the PS3 pcb.
How can I solve this problem?

To make a dual mode with 360 too don’t use the madcatz arcade stick pcb instead go with madcatz wired joypad or with the M$ wired one but both of them have to be the latest version (M$ latest one is common ground too!) beacuse they are cheaper.
Add the gamecube pcb it’s not a big problem if you are fine having three different power cable coming out of your box. Just add every pcb you want and connect lets say the A 360 button, the A Gamecube button and the X PS3 button to the same button on your arcade with everyone its own ground.
I don’t know if this make sense to you and could help.
I opted for 3 different power cable for 3 reason:
1-the Gamecube plug is different from the 360/PS3 usb one
2-the different voltage of the pcbs (I avoid adding resistance to make them compatible with an unique source)
3-having multiple power cable let me use primary bigger points to solder on the pcb (and having not so much osldering skill is better :wgrin:)

First off, welcome to SRK, G0d3L. Enjoy your stay and never forget that Tech Talk is hands down SRK’s best board. :smokin:

Regarding your triple PCB idea, personally, I’d find it very wasteful only because we have Toodles’ Universal PCB. It’s only downside is that it doesn’t have 360 controller support built in nor can it currently send input to a Wii Remote, but you can easily piggyback a 360 PCB onto the chip. Heck, Toodles I think has a dedicated terminal specifically for doing so. People have already mentioned the Madcatz Xbox 360 controllers as a PCB and that’s the best way to go since it has a common ground unlike the official Microsoft controller. Not to mention, you can go the detachable controller method with it and I have to say, I find that to be a very good way to keep your cords organized and safe from damage.

Oh and the thing about Toodles’ Universal PCB is that it’s completely wired unless you piggyback a wireless 360 or Dreamcast pad. If I’m recalling correctly, it uses its own protocol to communicate with the consoles and it still retains full functionality of the console’s original controllers. Like for the UPCB PS3 compatibility, it’s entirely wired and connects via USB to the PS3 and still lets you access PS Home menu.

As for button layout, I’m a personal advocate of the 8 button layout, but I suppose that’s really only because I’m also a pretty large SHMUP fan. I don’t know how I’d play Radiant Silvergun without my 8 buttons. People cry all the time about 8 button layouts and how it tempts you to press the wrong buttons, which cause unfavorable commands to be done, or that you can get your hand positioning messed up. I can see the validity of the second argument, but the first one is just stupid. You have the option in basically every fighting game to set your unused buttons to do nothing. So I don’t see how improper commands can come out. I honestly think it’s better to have the option to use the other two buttons than to not have them at all.

You can use a Cthulhu board for the ps3 if you want a wired controller. Also you can use the same USB cable for the ps3/xbox360 if you hook it up to a DPDT switch so you will only have 2 cords. I know it works cos I’ve done a few with a ps1, cthulhu and xbox360 pcb.

Looks like you just sub the ps1 pcb with a gc pcb and you are good to go. Go luck with this and I probably do a gc, ps3 and xbox360 for my personal sticks too since they are the only system I play on.

Not true if you get a PSX pcb with an analog button the analog button is your PS button. If I were you I would just do a dual pcb mod with an X360 pad. Don’t even worry about the gamecube pcb because you have adapters to take care of that like this one.

THat’s only true for the Pelican converter. Whatever the converter has setup to be the Home button is what it will be. I think the REAL converters use Up+Select, for instance.

Having more than three buttons on top depends on how you want to play 4-button games. With a 6-button layout, you can use your thumb to hit the bottom left button and your index, middle, and ring fingers for the top 3. (This is assuming you use the Astro City layout or approx.)

I find this very comfortable, and it matches the arcade layouts for Soul Calibur and Virtua Fighter (just with one less button on the right for VF). I also saw a manual for a Tekken 5 cabinet that had a picture of an arcade with the buttons in this layout rather than 2 rows of 2 buttons each.

Then again, are there games now that use 5 buttons in a row? That’s where having an extra for the top row would be good.

I skipped the UPCB and Cthulhu threads beacuse I thought they were to much refined for my purposes (in a first time I thought only to mod the EX2) but now I’m studing it (finally my theoric physic master COULD be usefull :woot:) but please take a look at this thread to see if I’m having trouble understandin something.

But is it possible to use a Sixaxis pcb without having it wireless? (maybe pulling away the battery?)
Because I have 2 Sixaxis and I’ll buy a Dualshock (LittleBigPlanet rulez!) so I think that it will be cheaper to rip off a sixaxis instead of buying a Pelican converter

I love the three buttons layout (DoA & VF are my favourite) and when I play SC I use three DoA & VF buttons plus the third one of upper row. So I’m fine with the 6 layout but having 2 more buttons without any cons (I nevere use a 8 buttons stick) will be something more.

However thanks to you all guys, never seen a community like this where anyone with an idea, a problem or whatever is left alone. Unique.

Or you could trade me a sixaxis for a cthulhu kit :slight_smile:
You COULD do a a wired sixaxis; pretty much, just remove the battery pack and do everything like normal. You’ll want to doublecheck that the sixaxis is common ground before wiring it up with two other controllers tho, I don’t recall if it is.

Yeah, you’re definitely going to need a bigger case to house 3 PCBs. Modding your EX2 isn’t a bad idea at all, just that no way is that tiny case going to house a Sixaxis and a Gamecube PCB comfortably. If you had say a HRAP3, then I could plausibly see you doing it. But since you’re going for pricing as well, then it’d probably be cheaper (assuming you have the tools) to build your own case out of wood. Or, if you don’t have a lot of woodworking tools, there’s a lot of ghetto sticks in the Custom Stick Thread which have their cases made of all sorts of crazy things like empty drawers, chessboards, cardboard boxes even. I’m sure you could definitely find something that you could use around your house.

I believe it would be possible to use a Sixaxis with a battery removed. Like Toodles above me said, check if it’s common ground first before you wire up these PCBs. Though, I’d honestly go the PSX PCB route. Why? It’d be much more useful to you since most fighting games played in current tournaments are played on a PS2.

And regarding converters, the inPin distributed by laugh (check the Converter/Adapter Thread) performs on equal footing with the Pelican one, is much cheaper (the inPin is $20.00 plus $7.00 shipping from Korea whereas you can pay up to and above $60 for a Pelican) and it has its own PS Home button so you don’t have to do anything special to make it work on your PS3.

In a first moment I was only going to mod the gate of the EX2 with a square from akihabarashop. After a while I said to me why not to try this awesome JLF stick and sanwa buttons…and here it cames all the problem with the little EX2 case and not common ground stick :looney:
So having all the tools to make it in wood & alluminium (I have some question for the control panel wood VS aluminum thing) I decided to project my own arcade stick and then I thought to do it with all the pcbs of those (no more next)-gen consoles. I think it will be quite hard and a long work but I hope it will be fun too.

lol I just saw on ebay that the sixaxis is not that cheap that I thought. With the new dualshock for sell I thought that the sixaixs price would be fallen down much more.

thanks for the tips

In reality all I need is the compability with the 360 (every major fighting game is there) and with the Wii(SSBB and Capcom vs Testunoko) so the PS/PS2/PS3 pcb is not that important to me but being here on this project a little step more isn’t that painful (I hope…).
I just saw the price of hte various UPCB/cthulhu kit/PS1,2,3 pcbs/Pelican and inPin convertor and I think that I could go (having alle the room that I need inside the box) for the GC & PS2 pcb (less then 20 euros total) and the indispensible madcatz microcon plus the inPin convertor suggested by Ikagi-chan but I could be wrong.
I have no room’s problem and I want to play only on the 360/Wii/PS3 so other things dosen’t interess to me.

The plan is good, but I just wanted to point out that you won’t be able to use the stick to play SSB Brawl (or Melee). The UPCB has special code just so it can, but using any other PCB you won’t be able to. TvC, GG:AC, and Wii VC games will work fine, but Samurai Shodown Anthology won’t work with any Gamecube controller.

Why am I not able to play SSBB with a Gamecube pcb in the stick?
I can play it with a Gamecube controller so why it will not work for the stick?
This is a HUUUUGE problem.

I feel your pain, I thought I would be able to do this too when I bought my HRAP2:SA because I already had a PS2 to Gamecube converter. The reason you can’t is rather simple though. Brawl might have very open customization for controls, but there is no way that you’re able to set the D-Pad on a Gamecube controller to be used for movement. Brawl is meant to be played (on the Wii Remote + Nunchuck, Gamecube, and Classic Controllers at least) with an analog based joystick. You won’t be able to use a Sanwa JLF simply because it’s a digital only signal. There does exist analog arcade joysticks, but those will cost you a useful arm and a leg and won’t be worth it. You COULD theoretically get Brawl working with an arcade stick if you were to rip out a Wii Remote PCB and wire your buttons and joystick up to that, but the issue comes due to battery power and you insist on not having wireless.