Tutorial: XBox S-Pad hack


My aim was to hack a S-Pad without having to dedicate his use to my arcade stick.
What I mean is that after this hack the S-Pad is fully usable: there is only a connector (i used a DB25) in place of one memory card slot. I just have to plug my arcade stick on this connector to use it on XBox.
If you’re interrested I will put pictures of the pad later.

I thought that maybe it could interrest people who are affraid of hacking a S-Pad for their own Arcade stick for XBox.

here is the tutorial (it includes the 2 versions of S-Pad PCB):

Sounds cool. Let’s see some pictures.

I agree, I’d like to see some pictures of this whole thing going together. Great idea on keeping the s-video controller intact, the wiring might be tricky though to be able to close it up without ruining any of your connections.

ok :slight_smile:

I took some pictures. Sorry but the jpeg compression makes it a little bit crappy.

The first one is the S-Pad with the modification.

The second one is the arcade stick which is an empty Virtua Stick (there is no more electronic inside: just the buttons which are directly sodered on the DB25 Cable).

The last one is the whole stuff fully connected ready to play …

I hope that now you understand better the way it works (my english is not the best one…) .


Does this pad work good without any lag or anything???

It works as good as it should :slight_smile:
There is no lag at all as you play with the pad or with the stick plugged into the pad.

NIce…i may have found a pad that i can hack for sticks…using a common ground…

I don’t understand what you did… :depress:

Such an amazing idea, though. But the only site that I know of which describes DB25s in some detail is <this page> from TrackZ’s site. Does anyone know a beginner site that can explain the basics of these cables? Sorry to hinder anyone.

Thank you.

TGC: you can use this hack with an arcade stick wired with common ground: on my schematic, just put the resistors before the switch and not between the switch and the ground. It’s exactly the same :slight_smile:

Gaijinblaze: DB25 is just a connector, you can use what you want. If you want to use a connector with less pins because you only have one wire per switch + one ground, just read the reply I just made above to TGC… :slight_smile:

Wait a minute…you have to put a resistor in???


:lame: for me

That is the most god like mod for an Xbox controller I have ever seen but I can’t understand your circuit diagram at the right of your tutorial:depress: Can you explain it for the noobs such as myself.

TGC: the original XBox controller has X/Y/A/B button which are proportional analogic. The study of the S-Pad design lead me to use these resistors in order to keep the same behaviour than the original one. Maybe you can remove it, but I can’t guarantee you won’t destruct your pad by doing this (there will be more current when you push a button than normal)…

Quicksilver3007: Can you explain me what disturb you with the schematic on the right? I can help you but I need to understand your problem :slight_smile:

Ok, say i have the typical like…project box setup.

Would i need to just put a resistor onto the port, then wire those sticking out onto the PCB.

Or would i have to put the resistor on the cherry switches (which would affect all other consoles)

I dunno about much electronics.

Also, how much ohms for those resistors???

TGC: Look at the schematic, the resistors values are all written :slight_smile:
The only thing you have to do in order to use a stick with common ground connector is to put the resistors before the switch on my schematic (just swap the switch and the resistors on my schematic).
The switchs drawn on my schematic represent the switch you have into your arcade stick…
This means that you have to solder the whole wires on the pad, solder resistors on the wires coming out from the pad, then solder the connector.
So your actual stick won’t change at all.

I expect you understand well what I mean cause my english is far from perfect :expressionless:

I don’t know what the hell I was thinking… Thanks for clearing that up. I thought that your schematic meant that you were adding another switch in the wiring:sweat: But about the resistors are you just soldering straight from the resistors on the pad to the DB25 connector or are you inserting resistors on to a wire that is coming from the pad connected to another wire on the other side of the resistor to the DB25?

My bad I should really read the whole thread before I post something retarded:lol:

On the schematic, the switchs are those which are in your arcade stick and the resistors are additionnal ones (this is not the ones you can find on the pad).

I will put a picture of the whole thing soldered in order to make everything clear as soon as i get my cam back.

Cool thanx Sp-T. The only question I have left is what specs would you recommend for those resistors ohms, amps, and what not.

It’s on the schematic, you just need to learn to read it. 4.7k ohm for the buttons, 33 ohm for the directions. Now look at the schematic again.

1/4 watt, 5% tolerance is standard.

I understand the schmatic just fine but do they have those exact size resistors like 4.7 a Radioshack or do you just need a resistor in that general range like five ohms?