TvC/Brawl sticks. Just how do their joysticks perform?


#1

I’m just wondering how the joysticks in the post-TvC sticks work. I dont need them as main use controllers, just something to bring along with my mobile setup.


#2

They’re pretty good clones but I’m not a fan of them. Spring is too tight compared to a real JLF (which is really loose compared to most other JP sticks anyhow so no surprise there), and I’m not sure if the square gate and actualator are 1:1 with an actual JLF or not (the Brawl Stick square gate also only fits well on the clone; it’s very difficult to remove off of an actual JLF base. That’s only a difference in how the tabs were designed though).

The microswitches use a similar rating IIRC to the Omron switches in stock JLFs and are probably the best part of the clone.

If whatever game/character you’re playing has a lot of execution nuances, I’d be careful. The biggest problem is more along the lines of the factory QA being more lenient than ones for OEM Sanwa parts - there may be more variance in quality between clone parts.


#3

Real arcade parts almost always work better than clones.

It’s generally better to just completely remove a clone joystick lever from the case instead of keeping it; the only time you keep clones is when there is complication in installing a full joystick or when you decide for yourself that only a few changes (new spring, new microswitches) are needed to bring the existing control lever up to your comfort/performance standards.

Some of the old retrosticks have control levers that are hard to replace and/or lack room to put in full replacements. In many of those cases, you really only need a different shaft spring and higher-quality microswitches. Some of the retrostick control levers are close clones or modified versions of existing arcade hardware (generally JLW, LS-40, or LS-56) that only need minor tweaks or replacement of easy-to-find parts… Not worth doing full control lever replacements in those controllers, IMHO.

I had a Mad Catz TvC Wii arcade stick several years back… I STILL didn’t like the clone parts back then and swapped them out for full Sanwa. I ended up selling the stupid stick a few months later! Never bought a Wii because I thought back then Nintendo completely screwed the pooch with third party developers. Wasn’t worth buying one of their consoles for maybe 2-3 games in the entire library that interested me. Their attitude has come back to bite them on the Wii U, casual gamers or not, and, in spite of selling 90+million Wii’s, those casual gamers are generally not coming back to upgrade from the Wii…

A bit off-topic…
I’d say Nintendo still lost the last console generation battle and have probably lost this upcoming round, too. They may have made money off the Wii hardware and all those peripheral sales but they ticked off too many people. I remember what happened with Sega in the last days of the Genesis when they released the32x and screwed up the marketing and pricing of the Saturn console. They lost most of the consumers who bought the Sega Genesis; those consumers didn’t come back for the Sega Saturn or the Dreamcast.
Looks like MS is going to have to learn lessons about consumers in the videogame industry, too. Their PR for the XBox One has been a disaster thus far… They’re too shortsighted about the DRM and software re-sale issues; having a swelled head and being completely deaf to the concerns of hardcore gamers costs you big in the gaming industry.

The importance of the hardcore gaming market and the AAA third party software support can never be overestimated.


#4

Microswitches in the clone are OMRON D3V-16-3A5 switches.


#5

The size of the restrictor made hitting diagonals very difficult on the Brawlstick I have. I don’t believe you can replace it with a Sanwa GT part either.

You can use tape on the actuator to improve things a little, but the feel is terrible imo.


#6

Please don’t tell people about the tape mod. Yeah the mod works for the short term but the tape mod will eventually break down. What you really need is a oversized aftermarket actuator like what Paradise arcade shop sells.

If you are stuck to a small budget yea go for the SF SE, TvC or Brawl sticks, yes standard Sanwa or (better yet) Seimitsu parts are perfect drop in replacements. That will add another $40 to your total costs.
You may as well save up and get a better stick, keep your eyes peeled for sales on Mad Catz sticks on the GameShark Store, they had a week ago a huge sale on there SCV stick

I do recommend the Brawl or TvC stick over Hori’s Budget sticks or PDP Injustice stick do to the fact you have a difficult time trying to upgrade them to authentic parts.


#7

Lol, I wasn’t recommending it at all - in fact, I hereby insist that anyone reading this thread, ever, refrain from using electrical tape to correct actuation issues with their joystick.

PA actuators are a good plan.