Undamned's USB Decoders (USB to JAMMA, etc.)!


Is there a list of currently supported ps3/360/usb supported devices that the decoder works with?
I got one of these and have it set up. But for some reason my decoder only recognizes 360 controls. It does not recognize ps3 controls such as the toodles chtulu, inpin converter or ps360+ booted in ps3 mode. Any idea why and how I can fix this? I think I need to refresh the firmware. But the instructions for doing so are a bit confusing to me.

@Darksakul I think you mentioned earlier you had trouble updating the firmware. The instructions mention something about a boot loader application and a firmware file. Were do I get these from? Any help would be appreciated.

Also, what would be the best way to check how much latency is introduced when a convertor is made from one of these?


Not yet. Still need to put one together.

I’ve personally tested both MC Cthulhu and PS360+ in PS3 mode. No idea why it’s not working for you. Unless you bought yours from me aeons ago or you bought an old one used from someone else, it’s definitely not a result of old firmware. If you do want to try updating it just to cross that off your list of things to try, download one of the manuals (firmware update is same for all) and the firmware/program file here:

There is no simple answer. My converter does its job in about 1ms, but you have to factor in the entire chain:

Input controller -> UD-USB Decoder -> Encoder PCB (pad hack, whatever)

I’ve seen input controllers range from ~1ms to ~14ms. If your encoder PCB is not USB based (Playstation 2, for example), I think the encoding time is probably pretty fast (maybe even negligible).


Thanks for your reply. I bought mine recently from paradise arcade. What confuses me is that it does not flash yellow when I plug in an unrecognized controller. I have mine set up to work on xbox one, and have gotten it to work with the Madcatz TE stick, Hori Rap Kai stick, the madcatz pad, etokki converter, official 360 pad, madcatz sfxtekken pad and the Logitech F310 pad set to x input. But nothing so far for ps3 peripherals. The led light does not even flash any colors. I will try the firmware update to cross that off my list. But I have to find a male A to Male A usb cable and a pc, lol. This is a really cool tool. Thank you.

UPDATE: I messed around with it and got toodles cthulu and ps360+ to work in ps3 mode. Inpin does not work though, guess it is not supported.


Can you share details of how you messed around with it (sorry if that’s too personal).


I opened up my convertor and made sure the ground an power connections between the decoder and pcb were solid, made sure that the usb header was seated on the board properly and had not been pulled up by stess of plugging in usb cables and lastly pressed the internal latched button inside the convertor that is connected to the test signal to make sure it wasn’t stuck and keeping the board activated low when powered. One of those things solved the problem.

I am still puzzled about the inpin not working since someone mentioned earlier in the thread that there inpin worked with the decoder. Other than that I am loving this thing. I can now use my sticks, hitbox and pads on the PS4 and xbox one. I am thinking of making a video showing these off a bit.


Ah, ok. Yeah, no thoughts on the Inpin converter. I haven’t put much focus on converters in my drivers, but there are some that I know other people have verified work. Yeah, that would be neat to show other people what you have done with the converters :smiley:


I would eagerly buy two of something like this ready to use! :stuck_out_tongue: I’m a bit suspicious my PS360+ (the one that lags on the Xbox360) may lag a little on the PS2, so I guess I’d rather try with my luck with the McCthulhu…


Keep in mind that the old ps360 performed fantastic on the ps3, there’s no good reason to suspect big lag on the ps2.


Finally got a video demoing some controllers with this for use with the ps4.

Here is the description I intended to write down.

Why a convertor and not a dual mod?

It comes down to preference and price. I like to play multiple fighting games, but use different controller types for each one. For example, for capcom fighters I prefer a stick, for NRS fighters I prefer a hitbox and when gaming in the early hours of the morning, my wife and son prefer I use a pad. Quad modding all these controllers to work with current and next gen systems would cost too much money. A convertor just makes more sense in this instance.

What does this convertor do and how is it assembled?

This convertor is composed of 2 components:

  1. Undamnded USB Decoder: This takes inputs from your 360 or PS3 USB controller and turns that into wire signals that you can use to control anything. Info thread on SRK (Undamned's USB Decoders (USB to JAMMA, etc.)! ) and where to purchase (http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/undamned-usb-decoder/1491-undamned-usb-decoder.html).

  2. Common Ground Donor PS4 or Xbox One PCB: This is the pcb that will communicate with your next gen system. For PS4 pad I recommend the Hori Fight commander 4 (http://www.play-asia.com/fighting-commander-4-paOS-13-49-en-70-7sn9.html) and for Xbox One I recommend the Hori xbox one horipad pad (http://www.amazon.com/HORI-HORIPAD-...ywords=hori horipad xbox one wired controller ). Information on how to hack these pads can be found on SRK (PS4: Third party PS4 padhack options for Xbox one: http://forums.shoryuken.com/discuss...f-third-party-xbox-one-padhack-options#latest ). Thank you @Gummowned.

We can take the directional and action output signals we get from the undamned usb decoder and connect them to the corresponding signals in our doner pcb pad to make a convertor that takes as its input 360 or ps3 signals and outputs an xbox one or ps4 signal. This is a convertor.

What about input lag?

Your lag, if any can come from 3 sources in the chain:

360/ps3 input controller -> Undamnded USB Decoder -> Donor PCB

There are about 16 ms in one frame. Typical input controllers can range from 1ms up to and beyond 14ms. The Undamnded USB decoder has been tested to show that it only introduces 1ms of latency into the chain. Since the undamned usb decoder and donor pcb will be constant in your chain and can be expected to be about 3 to 6 ms in latency, the biggest contributer to lag will be your input device. You would want to use something that keeps you within that frame window. You can use the data on this page (http://www.teyah.net/sticklag/results.html ) to help you figure this out. To be honest, we are talking about ms differences here and in most cases below 1 frame. Many of you will not notice the difference.

Why this convertor over other commercially available convertors?

There are severl advantages to this convertor over commercially available ones.

  1. Since you are using officially licensed controllers as your donor pcb, you do not have to worry about your convertor being patched out in a firmwared update.

  2. No lockout by the ps4. All commercially available convertors on the market have to deal with being booted off by the ps4 after 8 minutes. This is due to the convertor not being able to authenticate itself via bluetooth to the ps4. Since you are using an officially licensed controller pcb to directly communicate with the ps4, you will not have this problem.

  3. Tournament legality. Undamnded USB decoder has been used at EVO and TFC. It was used to run SF ST on superguns. Simply put, it has no macros, you are coupling it with a licensend wired controller. It is tournament legal

Currently Supported Input Controllers:

The controllers on this list are controllers that I have either personnally tested or I have seen to work with Undamned USB decoder. If a controller is not on the list, it does not mean it is not supported, it only means that I did not have it on hand to test. Also the undamned usb decoder can have its firmware updated. Future updates might allow for use of controllers that are currently unsupported. You cannot use this as an xbox one to ps4 or vice versa convertor because the undamned usb decoder does not recognized ps4 or xbox one controllers as input devices.

Xbox 360:

  1. Official wired xbox 360 controller

  2. Madcatz TE round 1 arcade stick

  3. Madcatz SF x Tekken fightpad

  4. Hori RAP Kai

  5. PS360+ in 360 mode

  6. Etokki convertor (this will allow you to use ps2 pads. Input latency for this is sub 2 ms)


  1. Dual shock3 and Six axis

  2. Toodle’s MC chtulu

  3. PS360+ in PS3 mode (For Hitbox users I recommend this mode. Access it by holding down jab (1 P) while pluggin in your hitbox)

Absolute Question and Answer Thread v.3 (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)

Nice work, @buyproduct !

The only detail that jumped out at me was this:

Since we can’t ensure which donor PCB people are using, we can’t claim a 3-6ms constant. They could be using a very laggy donor PCB well beyond that range. I just wouldn’t want to give anyone the false security that their chain is faster than it actually is. And as I mentioned briefly earlier, in the case of non-USB donor PCBs, the constant would likely be well faster than for USB donors.


Yeah I should edit that part out. I wish I had a precise way of determining the latency. I think though if you are using some of the faster pcbs (chtulu, ps360+ and ps2 etokki), that the front end is defiantly in the 3-5 ms range. I want to say the whole chain with that set up is less than 1 frame, but i would like to find a way of testing it out.


Is there any hope of Xbox One or PS4 arcade stick support from the UD-USB?


Yeah, I’d really like to get to that this year.


really nice stuff, definitely need 2 db15 Decoders and neo adapters @_@


Hello Brian already have an update for controls PS4 and X-ONE ?



Here’s my little project box with the UD USB and a XBone Hori pad:






Thank eltrouble had not seen this post


I’m trying to modify a dual usb port of motherboard 10 pin connector to split and use with my supergun, it seems there are 8 pins on it, such as on this picture. what is the purpose of fifth pin labeled “s” on ud-usb?


(figured out, shielding. what happens if you don’t connect?)


It should work ok. On paper it’s better to have a separate shield, but it’s doubtful you will be operating in an obscenely noisy electrical environment.