Undamned's USB Decoders (USB to JAMMA, etc.)!

Been a busy week since return from EVO, but I should have a free morning on Saturday. Will hopefully have an answer for you guys then!

15 Pin D-Sub version is definitely the more elegant solution, so don’t feel too bad :smiley:

What I mean by “monster” pads is the Neo Geo connectors on the supergun have large pins soldered to the PCB, which makes it easy on you. Also there should be large pins on the bottom of the supergun for that big screw terminal connector you wired your kick harness into. After cutting the appropriate traces, solder a wire from the bottom of B5 on that big screw terminal connector to Pin 10 on the Neo Geo connector (do that for both Player 1 and Player 2 connectors). If you wish to wire up Coin 1 and Coin 2 (it appears there is a button on the supergun for coin, so you may not care about this), solder a wire from JAMMA Pin 16 to Player 1 Neo Geo connector Pin 3 and solder a wire from JAMMA Pin “T” to Player 2 Neo Geo connector Pin 3.

Thank you, I see what to do now. Button 6 seems to work (just tried to connect the pins, I do not have a soldering iron atm), and I assume it will work well for button 5 too.

Thanks man. Let us know, so we can finally start using the decoders with the MAK Strike (hopefully)!

Any news? Please, let us play with our PS3 sticks :slight_smile: :).

For those having problems with the MAK supergun try to turn on the supergun on/off switch before connecting the power supply unit

Keep your shirts on, my day job is killing me :expressionless:

Had some time to play with it over the weekend, but since my brain is so fried from work, I keep forgetting to bring the oscilloscope home. I can at least conclude it’s a power related thing. I am baffled as to the reasoning behind the power layout. +5V is always connected to the controller port (any time you have power connected to the MAK Strike, it is running to the controller port, even if the power switch on the MAK Strike is turned off O_o). When the Power Switch on the MAK Strike is turned on, there is some sort of voltage spike that is killing/damaging the decoders (yes, I sacrificed 2 of them verifying what happens). Once I get my oscilloscope home from work I can see how gross the voltage spike is. If it is minor (which I highly doubt) I will need to modify the Decoders to be more robust. If it is as gross as I think it is, there’s a simple mod that can be done to the MAK Strike to circumvent this problem. I will post up when I get more info. Sorry for the delay, guys. Just trying to stay sane with my day job.

Nope, I get no led response at all from the UDUSB decoder if I turn on the MAK Strike before connecting the powerplug.
Instead, if I plug the decoder when there is already electricity in the MAK Strike, then the decoder flashes exactly twice a red light and then it dies.

Thanks anyway!

Go man! You are our only hope :slight_smile: :slight_smile:
At least, I hope I didn’t burn any of my decoders by connecting them to the MAK Strike.

Just wanted to post that we used two superguns setup with undamned’s usb decorders at the Evo 3s side tourney this year and it worked out great! We had one guy who plays only on a stick meant to mimic keyboard (it has keyboard buttons aligned similar to a standard keyboard setup but connected to a 360 or PS3 PCB) and he usually only plays on Fightcade. Since the 3s community mostly plays on arcade he doesn’t have many opportunities to play the game offline. He heard that we were using undamned’s decoders and he told me it was the reason he came to Evo this year. It basically made arcade 3s more accessible to someone who was interested in it but doesn’t usually get to play on it because of the controller he’s used to using.

And he was a cool guy to boot!

We tested input lag vs our arcade cabinet and found that if there was a difference, it was neglible enough to fall within our margin of error. All around I think these decoders are great and I recommend them to any player or community where arcade is still the standard and making that more accessible is a goal.

I’m not sure if it’s been tested lately, but when a few of the socal ST players were “beta” testing the Undamned USB encoders to make sure they worked and had minimal input delay, at it’s worst, it had maybe 1/4 frame of input delay, which is extremely negligible and well worth its’ benefits.

If anyone tells me they can feel 1/4 frame of input delay, I’d call you insane.

Clearly you haven’t seen the stick lag thread lol

Good God, I almost forgot about that thread. So cringeworthy, lol.

Lets keep on topic, please keep the lag stick talk in the lag stick thread.
People are getting rather hot headed over the issue as of late.

For the record I agree with eltrouble.

I used undamned’s usb decoder with a number of devices and configurations.
I did not sense any noticeable delay.

There’s not really such a thing as “feeling a 1/4 frame of lag.” If there’s delay it either delays your inputs enough to carry them over to the next frame or not. So a 1/4 frame of lag delays your inputs by one frame 25% of the time basically (this is probably oversimplification but you get what I mean). Obviously the situations where your inputs being delayed by 1f will matter are game and situation-specific.

Without dragging the argument about how much lag matters into another unrelated thread, I’ll just say that I play a game where most of the top players are pretty sensitive about lag and will be vocal about the setup if they perceive something is screwy. I didn’t hear many complaints so to me the initial test run was a positive experience for sure.

My bad for posting basically the same question in two threads, but I ran across this while looking for solutions; is there any way to get this to work with a USB keyboard (programmable) or would it just be a button mapping nightmare?

Looking to get a mechanical keyboard to work on console through a project box, and was hoping to not have to gut it and just solder directly to the switches.

Probably going to have to gut it or make a custom. I had this made -

PS360+ inside so it works with the decoders.

Hi @undamned. Picked up a USB>PS3/PS4 converter from Gummo a while ago and it worked excellent with my Qanba Q1, friend’s HORI HRAP3, and brother’s Hit Box. Great piece of equipment! However, it didn’t work with my brother’s new Qanba Q4 and I gave him the converter for his bday. No lights, no signal, nothing. Stick works alone on his PS3.

I understand that maybe it’s due to being a dual board but any chance you can add support for this stick that can be added via firmware update? Both the Q4 and Fusion are popular sticks so it seems like a good investment. What are you thoughts for this situation? Thanks in advance!

Well, no shocker that there are problems with the MAK Strike after looking at the power signals (15V spikes, anyone?). Since the MAK Strike has power connected to the controller ports before you even flip the on-board power switch “ON”, when you do finally flip that power switch, it’s super dirty (electrically noisy) as well as whatever power fluctuation is caused by adding a load (whatever arcade board is being used) to the 5V supply while it’s already live. I may be able to clean up the voltage spikes by adding more capacitance to the Decoder design, but I don’t think there is anything I can do about power bouncing around (sometimes down to 0V) when the on-board MAK Strike power switch is flipped “ON.” I will try to come up with some sort of solution, when I get back.

I’ve toyed around w/ the idea of adding USB keyboard support, but haven’t implemented it, yet. Definitely not high on my priority list, as it would be something to add when I run out of normal game controller support/features to add.

Have you tried both PS3 & X360 switch positions on the Qanba sticks? I think only one mode works and I need to fix the driver for the other.

I’m a bit confused here. Even assuming that the MAK Strike has a voltage spike when it’s turned on, this doesn’t explain why the UD DB doesn’t work properly when it’s connected to the MAK Strike turned off. In that case, it receives clean 5 volts and it should behave properly:
return one of the led-flash indicated by the user manual (https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3FkmY_8ujMbaDNqZmZxa3FmTjA/view)
that are:

  • Solid GREEN - Game Controller detected/ready
  • Flashing GREEN - Button Re-Mapping mode
  • Solid YELLOW - When the decoder was powered up, another 5V source on the USB port was
    detected (not permitted)
  • Flashing YELLOW - Unsupported device plugged in
  • Flashing RED - USB power problem (possibly a damaged device was plugged in)
  • Flashing RED/GREEN - Bootloader mode

Now, I’m not sure if flashing a red light ONLY 2 times (and then nothing) is the Flashing RED category, but this is what happens when the decoder is connected to a MAK STRIKE powered on or off (but connected to the power cable).
The same happens when the decoder is connected to a MAK Strike already turned on with voltages already stabilized.

Are you getting a different behavior on your MAK Strike?

Note: The only thing I can do (using the connection with a MAK Strike) is to go in the bootloader mode and update the firmware properly thus I believe my decoders are working properly.

This was the same behavior i experienced with my new supergun. I hope decoders will be in my hands soon.

Finally, I managed to make the decoders work with the MAK Strike and ORIGINALS PS3 controllers.

Undamned is right! The ON/OFF switch generates a spike of high voltage which confuses the decoder. You can do the following tho.
As a simple test, you can connect the decoder (already connected to the controllers via USB) when the MAK Strike is OFF (but connected to the power plug). You should have the GREEN LIGHT on. This means that the decoder recognize the controller properly.

Note: remember to update the firmware to the last version. At least, my decoders are updated.

Now, if you turn the MAK Strike ON, you will get the Double FLASHING RED effect (see post above) and the decoder will shut down completely.
Instead, if you passed the test above,

  1. disconnect the decoder from the MAK Strike.
  2. turn the MAK Strike ON (and wait 5 secs)
  3. plug the decoder to the MAK Strike (always with the controller already connected).

I got the good FIXED green light and the controller worked perfectly.

This fixes half of my problems, in fact I’m trying to use the decoders with this
This is the X-Arcade adapter for the PS3 (and XBOX), and I’d like to use my decoders in chain with this adapter to connect my Tankstick to the MAK Strike.

Unfortunately, I cannot even pass the GREEN LIGHT test with such adapter.
Tomorrow, I’ll test the X-Arcade adapter with a PS3 to see if it’s working properly.