I plan on adding a PS3 into my cab to join my PC. Can anyone recommend a USB splitter that will allow the TE sticks to work on the PS3 and PC, so I dont have to constantly open my can to switch inputs?
[LEFT]Commercially? No particular models come to mind, but what you want is a USB switch box, not a splitter. Without the switch, you risk shorting out your TE’s PCB. A quick Google search found this one: http://www.google.com/products/catalog?cid=8349816024699248700
It should also be fairly simple to build one, if you’d rather do that and have some basic electronics knowledge.
You’ll need a breadbaord, a USB-B Female-to-Breadboard adapter, a switch with four inputs (to the stick) and eight outputs (four to each system) to select from which system the stick should draw power and where it should send its signals (this can be created as an array of four one-in two-out toggle switches, but you’ll have to make extra sure you turn them all “off” before actually switching systems), wire (pref. color coded; Red, Black, Green, White), and a USB-B Male-to-Male cable (will be cut in half to make the two output wires). I’m not going to go into the details of putting it all together unless you really want to go that route though.
You could also use a microcontroller to select which system your device should use instead of hardware switches - you’d want to wire up a button and load a program on the microcontroller to switch output if the button is held for longer than a certain duration. This will increase cost, but reduce risk compared to the four toggle switch setup.
PS: If I’ve said anything really wrong here, please correct me. I’m pretty sure this is all accurate though.[/LEFT]
that’ll work but an array of 4 toggles seems completely wrong from an “y u no …” perspective. I’m no EE but I’m pretty sure you could do it by wiring everything in parallel except the +5v line then putting the +5v in a SPDT switch. Voltage would come off of your PCB and go to the common pin on the switch, then you’d wire the +5v from each cable to either of the other pins so power would only go to one cable xor the other.
hell, better than the 4 toggles would just be one 4PSP toggle, though again I’m relatively certain you wouldn’t have to switch all the lines.
Yeah, that sounds a lot better, actually.
Making things more complicated than they need to be is a personal strength.
I have one of these, and it works well (they have a similar one with only two, but the price difference is negligible). Basically internally it works as a series of mutually-exclusive switches that switch all four lines. It’s worth just buying something like this if you don’t have parts on hand; it gives you a decent case and it just works. If you wanted to control it not from the switches, however (say, via a single button on a cabinet on the outside), you’re better off going a different route.
That’s a good deal for the switch box!
My only concern is that my own experience with cheaper USB components (USB hubs in particular) is that they tend to fail after a few years… This is mainly after hard, day-to-day PC/Mac useage. They get hot and that’s what ultimately “kills” the device. (I’ve also had USB keyboards and USB mice go bad after a number of years, too. I traced a series of system malfunctions I had on my Mac to the failures of PCB’s in BOTH the keyboard and mouse I was using. Problems went away after I replaced those pieces of hardware!)
However, I doubt that this device would get worked as hard on an arcade cab unless the end-user has it on 24/7; very few people keep electronics on 24/7.
Really, the components in this thing are dead simple – they’re a bunch of multi-contact toggles that are mechanically triggered to be mutually exclusive (the depressed button pops out when another is pressed). It’s a stupid simple design, and an old mechanical trick that makes it all work. It is pretty cheap on the inside, but there’s no chips or circuitry to really fail. I’d think that the switches would be the first to go, but they’d be used so infrequently that I doubt you’d see such a failure before other aspects made the cabinet obsolete.
It will be used frequently, but only a few hours a day in reality. These should work. Thanks for the tips.
“Frequently” being like, a bunch of switches a day. Like switching systems 20 times a day every day or something; not likely.
I’ve been using a non-powered USB hub for my arcade sticks since SFxT came out… Have I been endangering my sticks?
That’s the one.