V3SA vs SFTE Round 2 (Also, where to buy parts?)


Hi everyone,

First let me say I this is my first time buying an arcade stick. I have looked around a good bit and from what I can tell, these two sticks are basically the same. Correct me if I am wrong on that.

The only difference I could find is that some said the Mad Catz is heavier and with me buying through my Amazon Prime subscription, it’s also $30 more expensive.

What I am interested in is possibly replacing the gate with an octagonal. I would also like to put custom artwork on the stick. I didn’t know if the Mad Catz is simply a clear top shield that can be unscrewed and the artwork replaced or if that is one piece. Edit: Nvm about the artwork, I found the thread on here that details it out.

The last thing is, what’s a good place to buy an octagonal gate for either stick?

Thanks for any help!


Sanwa GT-Y Octagonal Restrictor Plate

Since they both use Sanwa JLF’s you should be golden.

They are both good sticks, if the HRAP is $30 cheaper I’d definitely get that. Even if they were the same I’d probably the HRAP. I didn’t realize HRAP V3’s were lighter than TEs. I’ve used a VLX and that thing is definitely heavier (but it’s $300 and has a metal case).


If you want to get a TE you might want to wait a week. Markman said on his twitter that there’ll be a new promo for Final Round.


I strongly recommend sticking with a square gate. Octo gates extend the stick’s throw and basically makes them feel like garbage. After getting used to square, you’ll never look back.


Ok, thanks for the heads up on the promo.

I am not sure which stick I am going with yet but leaning towards the TE. Since both of these are good sticks, my last concern is just how easy doing my own artwork will be. There are a lot of guides for the TE, altough I am getting the Round 2 and not sure if the dimensions are different.

Yeah, I figured I would give the square gate a week or two but pickup an octagonal just in case since they are cheap.


Another reason to use a square gate is that they are just more common, so if you have to borrow someone’s stick because a different system is being used, then there wont be a problem.


You can def. buy a plexiglass from arthong to make your arcade stick super sexy. But I have some reliability problems with my TE. Some buttons stop working randomly until you replug the controller (tested with other buttons too). That doesn’t happen with my hori.

Square gate FTW. If you plan to stick with a octo gate, I’d go with the seimitsu LS 56 (+ octo gate, + MS mounting plate if you buy the madcatz, not sure about the hori). Personal preference of course, but the throw on them isn’t as excessive as on a jlf.


Hrm, I checked out those plexiglass tops and not sure how that works. It doesn’t seem the replace the metal top so wouldn’t it make the stick that much ticker. Not that that is necessarily a bad thing but unless the edges of the plexiglass are rounded, it could be a pain, literally.

It seems there is a lot more customization info for the TE, which I would need being a novice.

As far as the connection problem you are experiencing, maybe it’s fixed in the Round 2? Or is the R2 just an updated look?


It’s not that bad. You put it on top of your artwork and metal panel. I own one and the edges don’t bother me at all. It’s not that thick, and it’s pretty durable too.

I don’t know if the pcb problems were fixed on the round 2, other people might be able to answer this. I own the original round 1.


So are the edges rounded or is it a straight cut off on the plexiglass?

Thanks for the heads up though, sounds like that might be the easiest way with the TE. I ordered the Hori minutes ago to try out. Will order the TE when it is available again through Amazon or under the above promotion.


Got the Hori for the time being and have to say I like the square gate. Thanks for the advice all.