Want to gut my SE fight stick and move parts to a new case (advice needed)


The only stick modding I’ve done is swapping out stock parts for sanwa and other various basic things… but whenever I get a suitable case I like, I’m going to do a case swap with my modded SE stick.

My SE stick has never gave me any problems, but the case is starting to wear out a little. I had a friend rage on it on time and fist-pound the buttons and it kinda dented the metal panel. The bottom right corner of the metal panel is kinda raised up as a result.

Has anyone else done this, or possibly know of a tutorial or a video on this subject?

For the most part, I think I should be able to just move parts from one to the other… but the start/select/guide buttons I’ll probably have to do some minor mods to.

I plan on ditching the turbo panel… Would I have to do some further modding or will the stick default to the dpad or something … I really don’t know what I’m talking about. :confused:


So, you’re looking to take all the parts out and move to new case?

It isn’t very hard, you know how to remove the stock parts, so you should easily be able to move them to a new case. However, if you have snap-in buttons, you may have some trouble moving them from a metal panel to a wooden panel, as wooden panels are thicker, and work best with screw ins. But you could look into a case of arthong, they accept snap-ins http://shoryuken.com/f177/arts-hobbies-new-diy-acrylic-cases-now-available-237344/#post8919389

If you keep your PCB and barrier strip, it will be very easy to move them from one case to another. Simply unscrew everything, unplug the harnesses from the turbo panel (the PCB defaults to D-pad), and then mount however you like in case (arthong’s cases also feature PCB holders), then plug the buttons back into their quick disconnects.

Now, for start an select, you’d either have to have a way to mount the start/select daughterboard close enough to the panel and drill small holes for the two rubber contact buttons. But what I would do is get two 24mm buttons (sanwa or seimitsu, however you like), and a few .110" female quick disconnects (Lizardlick has LL Quick Connect, .110" Insulated), you need four, but I would recommend at bare minimum 6 (for some “oops” protection. If you mess up, you can’t really salvage a QD), preferably 8 if you’ve never crimped before, because I mess them up, even with nice crimpers.

I’d grab these wire strippers, because they are cheap, usually available at radioshack, and can also crimp RadioShack 8.5" 4-Way Crimping Tool - RadioShack.com

Now, take the start/select wires (grey and white), and cut and strip them. Then, once they are cut and stripped, crimp on your quick disconnects, and then attach them to your 24mm buttons. Then your 24mm buttons will now be start and select. I think it’s easier than trying to find an impossibly difficult mounting position for that tiny daughterboard, and 24mm holes are much more standard on cases than those start/select buttons.


Thanks. That answered pretty much anything I needed to know.

Yeah, I’d rather use some actual buttons than trying to use the SE start/select buttons.

Edit: One more thing…

Once I ditch the turbo panel, I’ll need a new guide button. Is there a thing for the guide button on the pcb?


if you have the xbox pcb look at the chimp wiring guide from toodles and you will see where the home button solder point is


yfrog Fullsize - chimpmadcatz.png is that it?

If so, thanks.


What you could do to do it solderlessly and if you’re not dual modding is to look at the turbo panel when you’re taking it off. There’s one point that should be like X.GUIDE and a GND on a single harness. Remember which two wires that connect to it in the harness. Do the same crimping routine to these two wires as before on another button (remember, get two more QDs, three to be safe. At this point, I’d get 10 altogether to be safe) The other wires can be cut, but leave that other end of the harness plugged into the PCB.


I’m looking to buy a new turbo panel if you want to ditch yours.