Want to mod HRAP2SA to 360

Hi fellows,

first posting. I recently got a japanese 360 for Raiden Fighters Aces and utterly fail on using the horrible digital pad on Microsoft’s controller. So I got a HRAP2SA and want to mod it to work on the 360. I looked around and read kineda’s thread about modding a Happ to work on the 360, but I didn’t really answer the questions I have.

My main question is if somebody ever tried to mod HRAP to 360 while keeping the autofire function of the buttons. From what I’ve seen it seems impossible, since the PS1/2 controller and the autofire IC are on one board, right ?

Are there any pictured guides for using a 360 cable controller for modding ? I’ve done several joystick mods back in the 16-bit days, so it’s been some time. I’m ok with soldering, so it should work out well. Is there anything special one has to look for when doing a HPRA to 360 mod ?


It would need a new pcb


First off you have to find a 360 pad thats common ground if you look here it’ll tell you about various pcbs and if they’re common ground or not and the soldering points. I would suggest you keep the Ps2 pcb if you do decide to play fighters at a tourney or at your house. Check this thread out. I read of a way to do autofire functions on a stick but I don’t remember the link to it. A mod will end up closing this thread, so Good luck with your ventures

I recommend the Madcatz Micron over that particular PCB. The micron takes up less space.

Thanks guys, it’s a start and I will buy a proper 360 controller tomorrow to stark working on it.

One more question: Why do I need a common ground controller ? If I take a MS 360 wired controller, like pictured here:


Seems as it does not have “common ground”. The difference as far as I understand is that with Common ground PCBs I have a GND line running around (from button to button etc to the pcb) and without common ground each button gets it’s own pair of cables running to the PCB, right ?

Thanks again!

It needs to be common ground because of the JLF harness. If you were running a Happ comp/ I/L Eurostick you could run a non common ground setup because each of the cherry switches need their own ground regardless. The JLF has a pcb that needs a common ground to ground each of the directions.

cut off the ground and solder directly onto the “legs”

i would recomend you get a “hacked” pcb from someone like hozie and hook it up and be merry…it will save you time and hassle and its done right.

That’s a good idea, but how do you know that the TP-MA didn’t come from the factory with a defect. I’ve bought a few JLFs and found out after I installed them that the microswitches weren’t aligned properly onto the pcb. Thus creating a problem when doing certain motions like DPs.

Being a general noob in electronics I wonder what happened if one took the GND line from the JLF connector, split it into 4 GND lines and connected it to each of the directional buttons within the controller ?

You’re better off asking in the trading outlet for someone to solder the remote up for you. James123 solders the remote for you and even adds a JLF harness if you need it.

Most likely (as I just realized that the Madcatz pads are not available over here in Europe). I’ve PM’ed James123 and hozie and hope to hear back from them soon :slight_smile:

One more question though: if I would decide to switch to Seimitsu parts one time in the future, what would I need to change. I guess the quickconnects for the buttons are the same and I just to need to replace the Stick connector, right ?

Nope The JLF harness is the same as the Seimitsu one you just have to flip it over.

I have done business with Hozie before on PCB work. He is very prompt and has great contact w. buyers.