Wanting to mod Mayflash controllers

Hello, this is my first post on the Shoryuken forums, and I just wanted to get a better idea of how to go about a mayflash arcade fighstick modification.
My brother and I as of recent are considering ordering two Joytron Paewang Revolution sticks and modding them, as I heard they are not so hard to mod and are the only controllers compatible with 360 and PS3 out of the box. Now I’ve never done this sort of thing before, so I was hoping I could lay out my game plan and someone could help me if there are any incompatibilities or some things I should know before we get started.

Firstly, here is the Joytron Paewang Revolution stick that we want to mod.

Here is the art that I plan on using for my stick:

And here I’ve put it on the mayflash template:
Next is the art for my brother’s stick, though he is undecided atm, this is what he’s currently going with:
And here I’ve put that on the template as well:
I am not planning on painting my stick a different color, as I will just leave the box white, but I would like some advice on what to do to laminate the image onto the front in this case. My brother will probably paint his red or black, so I could follow a similar process for that one I suppose as well.

As for button and stick modifications, here is what I plan to order:

My Fightstick -
One Paradise LED Joystick
Two Blue Chrome LED Convex Arcade Pushbuttons
Six White Chrome LED Convex Arcade Pushbuttons

My Brother’s Fighstick -
One Seimitsu LB-39 Red Bubble Top
One Seimitsu LS-40-01 Red Arcade Joystick
Two Red 30mm Sanwa OBSF-30 Pushbuttons
Six Black 30mm Sanwa OBSF-30 Pushbuttons

Any suggestions or comments on the art and compatibility with the parts would be appreciated. I still have to look up some tutorials for the actual modding process, but I was wondering if there’s anything I should know before we order the parts and get started. Mostly I want to be sure the parts we plan on ordering will work with the stick we plan on modding.

For art you can go to an office supplies store or FedEx Kinko’s and request a sticky back laminate pouch. I think most people call them lami-labels but I got a weird look the last time I requested that.

You will want to disable the button and stick layout before you take it to the print shop (to prevent any misalignment) and make the actual holes with a crafts knife or utility knife.

I am not sure if your joystick will fit the case well. I guess it will but if you mount it flush the height may be too high.I would use washers to offset this but I am sure there is a better method. If you don’t need LED on joystick then Sanwa JLF will fit the case perfectly (use the default mounting holes) with correct height placement.

You may need to file the button holes if your buttons are 30mm in diameter too. If they are 28mm in diameter they should fit without filing (or you may need to file away tabs protruding in the holes).

Your brother’s buttons are 30mm so he will have to file the button holes.

His joystick should be mounted flush for the best height. Use countersink drill bits and screws + nuts to mount it from the top. I suggest four screws + four nuts but you can do a minimum of two.

You can use this guide to get a general gist of what to do: Paewang Revolution (Mayflash) Modding Tutorial ver. Laugh [Lots of pictures]

Thanks for your reply and the link, I am sure we will need the harnesses linked to in that tutorial. As for my buttons, Paradise Arcade’s description says they are designed to fit any width from 24mm to 30mm, including 1 1/8 holes, which I’m assuming is 28mm.

I think to be safe on the joystick I will order a Sanwa JLF for both of them and two Seimitsu LB-39 Bubble Tops. I’m not sure what my brother will do about the buttons. He wants black ones, but I can only find those in 30mm. I’m sure sanding the holes too fit shouldn’t be too difficult.

As for the art, the mayflash template I found only had one layer for the buttons and the joystick layout and all. So in that case I should just disable this layer and take the art to get a sticky back laminate pouch somewhere correct?

Also I’m sure I will be able to follow the tutorial to get through most of the process, and it seems the JLF joystick will be simple to install, but I’m not so sure about the buttons.

I will warn you, the Mayflash isn’t the easiest to work with for your first parts swap. There will be soldering, your brother’s stick will need the holes widened out slightly (The holes are 28mm, for Korean style parts, while Sanwa buttons are Japanese style, 30mm size). You’ll need .110" quick disconnects to connect your brother’s buttons, .187" QDs for your buttons and joystick (While your brothers will use a 5-pin harness, like the one in the mod listed).

Will they work? Yes, every button and joystick can work with the Paewang PCB, because they all follow the same principles as to how they work (Acting as simple switches). Do they easily work? No, there is going to be a lot of heavy modding involved just to fit and wire them up, and the LEDs don’t just simply work by connecting the buttons/joystick, you’ve gotta connect those up, too. It’s possible, but really not for the faint of heart. I’m not sure if your buttons will fit naturally in the Paewang or if the holes of the buttons will need to be drilled out more. The site lists them as fitting “24mm to 30mm buttons,” but I don’t know how they fit so many sizes of holes. But, hey, that probably means you won’t have to mod the holes to fit the buttons.

Joystick mounting is another nightmare, since the Paewang doesn’t have universal mounting brackets, so you basically have to make your joystick work by drilling holes into it. I’ve no clue about the LS-40-01, and the LED joystick will be tough to mount, too. There’s probably a way to do it with drilling in the mounting plates or some funky mod that hasn’t really even been discovered, because most people just want to pop in a JLF (Which is done above).

As far as laminating the image, most people get “lamilabel” from Kinko’s, as it is like a high-quality laminated sticker.

Quanba Q4RAF sticks are compatible with PS3 and 360 out of the box, but they are more expensive, however, they come with all real Sanwa parts, and also are easy to swap with Japanese parts and support artwork mods (They even officially produce plexiglass covers to put over your custom art). However, while this is all great for your brother’s stick, your stick will still be difficult, since you aren’t using Japanese parts. The Q4RAF uses .110" QDs, Universal Mounting Brackets, and the standard 5-pin harness, which work all well and dandy with Sanwa buttons and the LS-40-01, but your joystick and buttons do not use .110" QDs, they use .187" QDs, the joystick doesn’t have a 5-pin harness, and I’m not totally sure if it would mount easily (Though my guess is “yes”).

However, you could look into buying a Hollow JLF shaft to LED mod the stick yourself if you go with the Q4RAF (Honestly, you will not want to touch that LED joystick after playing on a Sanwa/Seimitsu one), and getting Seimitsu buttons with Uila LEDs to LED mod (Even though the buttons drop right in, it’s still not easy to LED mod, it almost certainly will require soldering).

Sorry if this isn’t what you wanted to hear. My suggestion is looking into the Q4RAF, and playing it unmodded, then considering some simpler mods afterwards, such as part swaps with Japanese parts (Sanwa and Seimitsu branded), and art swaps. After getting your feet a bit wet, you may want to consider the more advanced LED mods that are possible. Though the sticks may come at a higher price, it will save you a lot of trouble and headaches over everything that would be needed to mod the Paewang, and really would probably save you in all the tools that you’d have to buy.

However, I do see that you’re looking into it, so, whatever happens, I’ll be here to try and guide you.

The chrome LED buttons may be able to fit the diameter of the button holes, but the overall length of the buttons including the microswitch may be too long to fit inside Joytron case.

You can follow Laugh’s guide linked by VietGeek closely and use this custom button wire harness from Laugh’s website to make installing Japanese buttons with .110" terminals a lot easier.

How much experience do you have with soldering? You might want to look into guides for how to solder+desolder and for what tools you will need if you don’t have any experience with soldering at all.

My dad has had experience with soldering and has soldered something for me before, so I’m not too worried on that.
As for the Q4RAF stick, I’m not sure I would like that one as the joystick itself looks a tad closer to the buttons and there’s another button on top. I’d prefer to go with the Paewang.

Also I want my parts to be compatible so I won’t have any trouble installing them, so I’ve updated my Paradise Arcade cart:
My Stick -
Two Blue Chrome LED Convex Arcade Pushbuttons
Six White Chrome LED Convex Arcade Pushbuttons
One Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT Joystick
One Seimitsu LB-39 Blue Bubble Top

My Brother’s Stick -
Two Red 30mm Sanwa OBSF-30 Pushbuttons
Six Black 30mm Sanwa OBSF-30 Pushbuttons
One Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT Joystick
One Seimitsu LB-39 Red Bubble Top

With these parts the joystick should be much more simple to install. I also updated my cart at eTokki with two Button and Joystick Harnesses for the Paewang PCB. From what I understand, I should have a relatively simple installation process with these (perhaps sans the sanding and the LED setup for my buttons).

EDIT: Nerrage I just want to say I love your avatar. XD

The microswitches on those chrome LED buttons use .187" male terminals, so they will be too big for the etokki button harness to fit because the button harness uses .110" female disconnects. You’d have to solder your own wires and install .187" female disconnects if you want to use those chrome buttons.

The etokki joystick harness uses .187" female disconnects which will only work with a Sanwa JLF joystick if you replace the microswitches with ones that have .187" male terminals like Omron MS-O-3R switches.

Otherwise, I recommend just using the JLF’s stock microswitch PCB array, which already comes with it’s own 5-pin wire harness, and either solder the harness to the board as seen in Laugh’s guide or buy a [S]barrier strip[/S] and connect the wires from the JLF wire harness to the Joytron PCB joystick wires through it.

Edit: An even easier method than using a barrier strip, which requires the use of spade connectors, is to use a European style terminal block.

Is that something that comes with the Sanwa Joystick?

Yes, the Sanwa JLF-TP 8YT comes with a microswitch PCB array and a 5-pin wire harness.

The wiring harness should come with that specific Sanwa JLF model, yes.

If the Mayflash/Paewang art template is one layer, you can easily modify the .psd to have the button and stick layout as a separate layer from the stick borders (bleeding area) and then toggle this new layer off before you take it to a print shop.

Ok thanks. Now for the buttons on my stick, would it be feasible to buy about 8 of these and replace the ones on the Paewang PCB Button Harness?

You would need to buy 16 of those (1 for the ground and 1 for the signal of each button), but yes, you can remove the .110" quick connects from the button harness and crimp on those .187" ones.

All right thanks. One last question, I edited the button holes and whatnot out. Now is this what it should look like to be printed out?
EDIT: I would think I should cut out the border myself in photoshop and then disable that layer first.

Well, my first impulse is to tell you to not bother with a Mayflash, as the stick mounts are always hit or miss, and the cases just feel like they give too much if you’re the type to really bang the buttons. But, since you’re already so determined:

Yes, but make sure while you’re there to get a couple of sheets printed out at different degrees of additional brightness. What it looks like on your screen is hardly ever what it looks like printed. It never hurts to get extras of the one you decide to go with, either. Application on a Mayflash takes practice, especially with lamilabel because it bubbles up so easily.

(btw: I <3 me some Miku)

Yes! I <3 Miku too. =3 Is that Miku in your avatar?
Anyways, I want the center of the art to be at normal brightness when I print it out. Should I make it so that the border part that will be cut off is a bit darker? So that I could just cut it out myself?

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

No, it’s Nene Romanova (from Bubblegum Crisis) with shimapan added courtesy of d3v. XD

As for your question, the colors on people’s monitors are frequently not adjusted correctly for CMYK printing. Don’t worry about correcting it, as I know a lot of graphic design professionals who don’t even have it calibrated properly. Just don’t even worry about it. Accept it as a fact of life.

So, because of that, when you go to print it out you’ll probably discover that it’s either much brighter or darker than how it appeared on your screen. It will probably need brightened. Since they’ll open it in photoshop to print it, ask them to adjust the brightness, then print again, repeating until you achieve your desired results.

Example script:*

You: “Hi, I need to have this printed please. Can I get a laser printed test page on basic white?”

Cute FedEx Office girl: “Sure!” prints

You: “Okay, this needs to be lightened up some. Can I get this printed three more times at increments of 25, 50, and 70% increased brightness?”

Her: “Uh, I’ll let you do that, sweetie” passes you the mouse, you do your thing

You: “Okay, the 50% looks good. Let me get this printed onto a white adhesive laminated pouch, please.”

Her: “Okay!” prints

You: “This looks great. Let me get two more of this.”

Her: “Alright, honey. You’re so handsome and sexy for knowing about all of this. Do you take pictures? I can pose for you sometime, tee hee!” giggles

may or may not actually be how it happens

Oh, and make the border the same as the rest of it. If you end up shifting the art when applying it, you’ll see little nagging edges of the border on the stick and it will absolutely GRATE YOUR FUCKING NERVES knows this from experience

Haha, all right. So I can just bring in the .psd and I should be set.
I think that about covers everything, thanks for your help. =)

I need to ask another quick question, so I decided I’d just bump this thread up again real quick. I’m getting my Aunt to print the artwork on laminate labels for the fight sticks. On the listing of the stick on UK Amazon, it says the sticks dimensions are 25.5 x 31 x 11.5 cm, meaning the top should be about 12 inches wide and 10 inches tall, but the photoshop template is about 10 inches wide and 7 inches tall. The template should be the correct size for the stick as long as it is printed directly from the psd, or from a photoshop pdf right? Or does anything require adjustments?

Just print on Legal size paper.
No Scale of the image.
30 DPI print.

You mean 300 dpi right? Print it just like it is in the photoshop template at 300 dpi?