Well loved modded stick is dead - advice needed on possible next steps/possible resurrection


Hey people of SRK,

Years ago, I wrote this thread about modding a Datel Arcade Pro (remember those? :slight_smile: ) with Sanwa parts and Bayonetta artwork.

Nothing unusual for the people here I know. But now my baby is busted - some wires came loose and I tried soldering (with bad solder skills) them back, but melted the circuit board…doh!

I tried finding a new or second-hand Datel Arcade Pro, but there doesn’t seem to be anywhere that sells it.

I really don’t want to scrap this Bayonetta stick, so I wanted to turn to the hivemind of SRK for advice.

Bearing in mind that I really like the multi-format nature of the stick, and whilst I’m not a hardcore fight game player, I’m looking forward to getting Streetfighter 5 on either Ps4 or PC (probably PS4, haven’t decided yet). Also, I’m thinking of getting a CronusMax Plus (£50) anyway so I can use my 360 wireless controllers for PS4 and a friend’s XBone, so I can use it for my arcade stick on any format as well I figure.

Also, I’m based in the UK and time-poor (full-time PhD, father to a young baby! Still want to game!).

Seems I have a few options:

  • Try to replace the PCB. Looks like I might be able to do this from etokki.com. If I remember correctly, Datel Arcade Pro was similar/same as Paewang/some Mayflash sticks at the time. This PCB looks similar to what I have (ruined!):

http://www.etokki.com/Joytron-Paewang-Revolution-PCB-Onlyr: http://www.etokki.com/Joytron-Paewang-Revolution-PCB-Only

About £45 or so including shipping I reckon.

  • Buy something like the Venom stick for PS4/PC, use my Sanwa buttons (OBSF-30s) and joystick (JLF-TP-8Y-SK) in there to make it feel good, and just take a hit on losing the art. If I ever want to use it on other formats, I can use the CronusMax Plus.

More expensive - £70.

  • Try and bag an old-skool tournament edition stick (price variable) which has the Sanwa parts already (although more boring artwork) and use it with the CronusMax Plus to adapt to other systems. (Small problem here actually is that it’s too big to fit in the display cabinet I have for controllers and consoles, but I’m sure I’ll find a way around that!).

Have I missed an option here? Is there a stick that you guys and girls know about that I would have missed that would help me out here? Even better - is there a PCB out there that wouldn’t require me to spend ages soldering?!

I hope you have some good advice for me. At the moment, I’m kind of leaning towards the first option - spending money to ‘refurbish’ my stick with a new PCB, but I’m open to correction and other thoughts/options.

Thanks in advance (and sorry for lengthy post - wanted to show I’d thought about it).


http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/home/1658-brook-universal-fighting-board-ps3-ps4-xbox-360-xbox-one-pc-.html The other option with support the last gen and current gen non-Nintendo home consoles.


That looks complicated to solder. Looks like a nice option for a new build though.


The Universal Fight Board is almost solder-free. All your inputs go to screw terminals. You only really need to solder the USB cable if you’re not using a USB printer cable.


Oh wow! Didn’t notice that. Will have to see if I can cancel my order with etokki (this thread wasn’t getting much interest and I falsely assumed that the Uni board would be a pain to deal with.) and get this instead. Bizarre that they use a USB Printer cable though?!

Thanks for pointing that out.


USB B terminals are better suited for PCB installation, cables are readily available and IMO they provide a sturdier connection.


I’m unsure about the size of the PS360+ and whether it’ll fit into your case, but perhaps it may be worth giving a go. It’s a little over £37 (without shipping) on PlayAsia, and you can get the leads for the PS1/PS2 and PS3/360/pc and dreamcast pre-made for an extra 70p each. Also with the PS1 controller lead, you could grab a gamecube adapter and use it on the gamecube and wii.

The only downside is that I’m not too sure about how it works with current gen systems. I’ve heard varying reports about it working on the PS4 natively. Honestly I’m not too sure… it should through the legacy controller-thingy but that has compatibility issues with some games, and I’m not sure all devs even script it in (don’t have a current-gen system, so I unfortunately can’t check it out for you).

Either way, might be worth looking into.

Edit: forgot to include the link: http://www.play-asia.com/ps360/13/706m8z


PS360 is actually somewhat small. It can connect to a PS4 for 8 minutes before effectively being kicked off the system due to a lack of bluetooth authentication. However, given that none of the options considered in the OP had any sort of retro console compatibility, I’m assuming he doesn’t give two shits about it. Hence why in this case, though it’ll be a bit more expensive, the UFB is a better option for him than a PS360 since he plans to use it on PS4/PC, and One, which are all supported by the UFB in addition to PS3 and 360 (and I’m sure we all know by now that the Cronus isn’t recommended).



Where in the UK are you based? I might be able to fix it for you…


Ah I see, perhaps it’s not the best of ideas then. You’re right, I didn’t think about that. I just thought it’d be worth the mention as OP did say about how he liked the ‘multi-format nature of the stick’. Probably should have thought of that before posting though.


Thanks for all the input people - it’s much appreciated.

@gahrling I’m based in NE London

I managed to cancel my order with etokki, which leaves me able to get the Brook board (which seems a better bet than my original idea - which was to repair my joystick back to the original state and then use CronusMax Plus for PS4 compatibility).

I have a concern though - wiring up the stick and the punch/kick buttons is easy, because they’re all microswitches (obsf-30s and Sanwa joystick). But the start, select, home/guide and ‘turbo’ (used to switch modes) buttons have a rubber underneath which makes contact with the PCB for a connection. How will I get those buttons working with the UFB? Will I need to replace those buttons with microswitches?

@TwilightZone thanks for the recommendation of the PS360, but yeah - I’ve had my interest rekindled a little by the imminent arrival of SFV, so I’ll want to get that on my PS4 I reckon (I don’t trust Steam Link to stream it from my PC 100% all the time. PS4 will have fewer problems).


I’m in London too.

IMO you should keep the original PCB in there to hold the stock buttons in place, then hack the pcb to access start, select, home, and turbo for the Brook board. I’d recommend swapping turbo for the PS4 touch panel.


@gahrling That’s starting to get very expensive. It’s about £50 to buy and ship the Paewang PCB, and then about £60 to buy and ship the Brook board.


Alternative is to buy a Venom stick and replace the buttons and joystick with the ones I already have or new ones - that’ll be cheaper, and XBone compatibility is a nice to have, but not a must. Plus the case is probably nicer.

Alternatively, I fix this stick back to where it was and use a CronusMaxPlus - although I can’t quite tease out why it’s such a bad idea. There seems to be a lot of mixed views on it.

I’m a little torn. I love my Bayonetta stick, but buying 2 PCBs seems a little overkill. Are there no small buttons that I could seat in the top there to perform the same functions? Apart from the fact that I’ve been put off soldering now (how I got back into this mess!).


Oh hold on, do you mean keep the original broken pcb in there, rip off the cable, and then solder some wires on that old board then screw the other end into the UFB? In which case that sounds like the best idea (new switches will look ugly anyway).

How would I do that? (as in, attach wires to those 4 buttons at the top to then screw into the UFB?). I like your tip on turbo going to PS4 touch-screen btw.

The 2nd picture from the etokki link above has the layout.


Keep the original pcb that sits under the 4 small buttons and remove the old USB cable (it’s crap quality anyway).

It all depends on how the Datel pcb has been damaged. If the chip is fucked then there’s no point in dual modding it for a slightly easier button hack, so IMO isolate each button signal on the pcb by cutting the trace then use a soldered wire to connect to the Brook pcb.


All that I did was solder off one of the contacts for the buttons - so now a button is forever useless. So, not a lot of damage basically. I think it’s the L1 or the L2 solder contact.

Not quite sure what you mean by ‘cutting the trace’ Do you mean find the wire for that bit that comes out in the USB cable? Or soldering a wire somewhere to pick up the signal from the pushbuttons?

By looking at the pic (not at home so can’t see the PCB in front of me at the moment) I’m not sure where I could feed the signal into the Brook…

thanks for your help here - all really needed!


Here’s a couple of images to illustrate the damage I’ve done, and the general state of the stick inside.




Cutting a trace means to look at the pad in question, then find the circuit that connects the pad to the other components on the PCB. Once you have located the circuit, take a small sharp object, like an X-Acto knife, and cut through the circuit on the PCB to disable the connection from the other components.

What is the taped bubble wrap for? An attempt at sound deadening?


@aszyd thanks for the reply!

I’ve watched a few vids online (there seems to be very little to choose from on this topic mind you!) and it seems you scrape away the green and then cut. From that PCB, I can’t really see where I’d find the connection coming out of those 4 rubber based buttons that the PCB is holding into the case.

So do I cut the connection, scrape away the green for some of it, then solder a wire to it (as per @gahrling’s instructions) for me to feed into the Brook board?

Re: taped bubble wrap - yes. The Datel case was horrible and plasticky, so I went to the post office and got £2 worth of 1p and 2p coins, then taped them up in rolls of duct tape and then stuck them to the inside of the case. I then filled some of the rest of the space with bubble wrap to absorb sound. Now, when you pick it up and/or knock/tap on it, it feels like a solid built case with some heft, rather than a crappy plastic hull! Cheap trick but works a treat!


The button signals you need to hack are on the other side of the PCB, you don’t need to worry about the main buttons or joystick directions at all.

It’s so basic - just use a Dremel or blade to cut the trace leading to the main chip then solder a wire to the already exposed copper pad. I don’t know how else to explain it.