What kind of paper to lami-label?

I want to lami-label some art to put on my stick, but I don’t know what kind of paper to use. I know that for plexi-glass, you want card stock in tabloid size, but what kind of paper should I use for lami-labelling and what size should it be?

Also, should I be cutting the paper and then lami-labelling it, or should I lami-label it and then cut it?

I used 32# but they couldn’t do it without bubbles. For my girlfriends stick we went with 24# and there weren’t any bubbles. You just need regular letter size and plain 24# paper for the best results. Of course you might need larger paper if your stick is larger but, I dont know if they make lamilabel that big(they probably do but, who knows if kinkos will stock it).

You’ll cut it out after you laminate it. It breaks the seal but, most people can attest to the art lasting a really long time before it starts peeling up(if it ever does).

I know I’m going to sound like an idiot now, but what is 24# paper? BTW, I am modding the TE stick

It’s their most basic paper. Paper in a notebook is usually 18# or 20#.
Paper in your average printer or self service printer is 20#
Paper full service copy shops usually print on is 24#.
Extra heavy duty paper is 32#
Card stocks are usually 65# to 120#

I specifically requested 32# because it’s slightly thicker and I was hoping it would give me a bolder print but, it doesn’t laminate as well besides, 24# is thick enough that you can’t see though it. You might be able to see through 20# plus it’s not as smooth and has kind of a rough texture.

Short answer: It’s a small step above regular paper and in copy shops its considered regular paper.

Thank you so much for helping me. Hopefully, things will work out. :slight_smile:

To be honest, I tried the card stock myself but it was harder to cut through for the holes and the color didn’t look as good on it as the basic print paper.

Basic print paper holds color (at least to my eyes) better and is easier to cut with after it’s laminated.

It’s also cheaper, too.

Haven’t bothered to use Kinko’s for print jobs for faceplate art. I’ve always used Staples and they don’t question where the artwork is sourced from…

Plain paper is actually brighter than cardstock, that’s why it looks better.