Let’s keep it clean, just talking about joysticks
We are looking at stocking Nyogel 779ZC which was the standard for many early arcade sticks.
Let’s keep it clean, just talking about joysticks
I’ll be good… I’ve got lubricant from Honda similar to the Shin-Etsu… It’s actually another Shin-Etsu formulation.
… And I’m going to stop here because it’s difficult to talk about joystick parts without the conversation going ==> you know where…
I’ve tried calling local Honda shops to see if they had any lube, and they had no idea what I was talking about. So I ended up going to a Harbor Freight and picked up a tube of Super Lube Synethic Grease with Syncolon for $5. Very nice lube. I like it better than the silicone o-ring grease that Laugh sells on eTokki.com. It’s also safe for plastic parts, so that’s a benefit as well.
Shin-etsu 40M is good but way too expensive for me. I just go for a commonly available silicone lube for £3.
I made my vote before I knew what the topic was really about…
I use Dow Molycoat 44.
I am surprised you got Shin Etsu from a Honda dealership, there usual policy is to refuse to sell the grease to the public, sometimes they refuse to even acknowledge what you are talking about if you mentioned Shin Etsu.
The Honda shop knows what Shin Etsu is, they just refuse to sell it off to the public.
I haven’t used the o-ring grease Laugh sells or anything Harbor Freight makes/ carries. I do know the selection of the wrong grease can ruin a stick. As some greases can conduct electricity and even dissolve plastics, and even if nothing else I seen grease that gumms up and freezes up a stick (like CPU Thermal Compound) So I stick to stuff I recognize as you can’t always get the specs for the grease from the retail packaging.
All good comments, the Nyogel was used on all Atari plastic parts for years. We were thinking of stocking little 3-5cc syringes with an applicator tip for about 5 each.
As long as its appropriate for plastics then I dont think its a big deal what brand it is. Syringe might be overkill, but if that’s the easiest/cheapest delivery method though, go nuts
As with most things, if you buy in bulk it’s much more cost effective… So believe or not repackaging into nice easy to use syringes actually saves money over their little squeeze tubes. The amount I’m talking about normally costs about 10.
me and the gf tried it for the first time sans lube the other night
she did really well!
The o-ring grease is a silicone grease. It works, has a nice consistency and viscosity. The Super Lube is perfectly good, actually I really like it even more than the o-ring grease. Has a very nice viscosity to it and it hasn’t gummed up or frozen anything yet and I’ve had it in my stick for about 6 months. It’s also safe for plastic so it won’t wear them down after a while. Good stuff, I highly recommend it and it’s fairly cheap at $5 for 3 oz, which is more than enough to last a lifetime.
I bought my Shin Etsu about 3 years ago… Haven’t had to use it much but it’s never given me problems in the joysticks. (And I still can’t believe I wrote that last sentence…!)
The local dealer didn’t give me a problem about it.
I just told them the brand name, formula number — specifically Shin Etsu G-30-W-O-M – and they special-ordered it.
You can buy this stuff online, too… It’s used to lubricate rubber door seals. Usually costs between $10-$14 plus shipping for a tube of it.
For that matter, unless you absolutely WANT to use the “right” Shin Etsu grease, most grease brands would probably work okay as long as they’re silicon-based.
People just don’t want to believe the Dow Corning and Honda greases work just fine… Sometimes analness will bite you in your wallet as well as your rear!
Not my problem if people don’t listen and go ahead and use CH-based (organic) greases because they’re cheaper or available at home… (People have gone ahead and used lip balm to grease stick pivots even they were SPECIFICALLY TOLD not to use it because of the organic base.) They’ve been warned ahead of time if they bothered to Google about this stuff! At least the arcade part sellers will get some extra money in a few months after Billy’s joystick breaks during a tournament because the (wrong) grease ate the joystick plastic…
Christmas Resolution # 3 – I will try very hard NOT to post again in a thread about joystick lube…
It’s hard not to chuckle about this stuff. Darn dirty mind!
I’m actually surprised this hasn’t digressed more, not disappointed, but surprised.
They have lube for joysticks??
I wanted to ask a general question about when should I consider lubricating my joystick again? I recently bought the VS stick so I doubt it’s anytime soon but a rough estimate is still good to know. Thanks in advance.
*** Breaking my promise NOT to post again already…! ***
You shouldn’t have to clean and re-grease the joystick much unless you’re a heavy tournament player. The grease helps protect the pivot point from friction and weardown… The joystick lever occasionally picks up dirt/dust/dead skin and when it starts squeaking/getting harder to move that’s when you take it apart and clean the pivot point and shaft. You would the second dustcover on the JLF (beneath the faceplate) would keep contaminants out of the pivot point but it still manages to pick up dust/dirt no matter what. The same is even more true for the LS-joysticks since they don’t ship with secondary (under-faceplate) dustcovers. Secondary dustcovers wouldn’t fit for LS-joysticks in most mounting situations because of lack of space beneath the faceplate and clearance issues within the mount area… You’d grind a secondary dustcover if it would even move in those cases!
I would think less than a half dozen times re-greasing per year if that for optimal performance… I had to clean my marching band trumpet in high school a lot (at least 6, maybe 8-10 times per year) but that was because of heavy usage not because of some fixed maintenance schedule. IF you’re not a heavy tournament player and only an occasional videogamer, I would think you could wait years before having to do anything with the joystick or buttons. Then you’d be looking at MAYBE 5-7 years between “overhauls”.
Right now, the only reason you should have to clean a brand-new JLF or LS-32 is if the manufacturing plant made mistakes or they went through one of those periods where the product seems a bit “off.” You can usually fix that pretty quickly. I’ve only had to clean and re-grease one JLF or LS-32 so far… No big deal, really…
It’s like they say… You take a car in for maintenance when its hits MILEAGE plateaus, not when it hits the “SERVICE BY THIS DATE” schedule.
The manufacturer messes up greasing sticks all the time. I have like six LS32’s and two of them weren’t greased correctly at all.
I haven’t been able to find a local source for molykote, so I’ve been recycling the grease from old cdrom drives.
Sorry bumped the wrong thread, correct one is here lol