I’ve been looking for a TE RND 2 XBOX360 for a few weeks now they seem to be less common & more expensive than the PS3 version. Is this the norm for the TE RND 2 or should I just give it more time?
360 te’s used to be a bit more expensive used because they alowed easy dual modding. Offcourse with everyone having moved on to ps4 thats not really relevant anymore. Maybe pc sfv players are buying them though.
You’re probably right. I’m looking to get one for my PC in fact.
QFT. They are so much sturdier and everything
I am pretty happy with my second hand Mad Catz SCV stick as my first (not including one with Qanba Q1 parts in a cardboard box) arcade controller. That thing weighs about the same as a newborn baby and feels sturdy as hell. I bet one could beat a man to death with it in a dark alley and then go play some FT5’s like nothing happened.
C+ for May Flash/Venom builtquality is to low. Only downside about the case is that you have to take care that the screw threads of the case don’t strip. Everything else is fine.
But you have that problem with plastic threads in other sticks, too. More or less… Generally a problem with plastic…
Would say Case: B+
Stick is heavy and has good dimensions… easy to mod.
It’s not really less quality than my old white Hrap VX SA
Would the 1.5mm actuator fit on a stock jlf? If not what kind of modification would I have to do? I’m guessing the 2mm one is to large for a stock one?
Have been using my arcade stick for quite some time and it has the Sanwa JLF stick and Sanwa buttons in it.
I am thinking of building a new stick but is wondering if I should order the same stick and buttons or is there others I should consider?
There are so many customization options within the hardware you have yourself, ie obs mx for your sanwas and whatnot. I guess I’ll start simple, and although i havnt tested every combination or hardware, there are a couple things to consider.
For Stick: Do you prefer ball top or bat top? Do you like your stick to be on the stiffer side of the spectrum in relation to pushback when using it? Are you content with your square gate?
Taking all that into consideration, the are four major style sticks to consider:
Usually come in a bat top configuration but crown makes a balltop variation. These sticks have a little more pushback than a sanwa in my opinion. The major thing with these sticks is that they are gateless and return to neutral position faster than japanese sticks in general. These are usually considered good for tekken, but to each their own. This stick has a linear feel (same pushback the entire way to activation of the switch).This does not feel like an american battop by any means. Infiltration uses this lever.
The tried and true, you have experience with this but can be modded in battop, gates, stiffness, silenced switches, and so much more. This stick fits universally in everything and has the most cool mod stuff out there regarding balltops and light up LED’s. If you after a custom look then this is what you should stick with. They primarily make the jlf and jlw, and while the jlw is much stiffer and uses different switches, it can cater towards a person looking for the american joystick feel
Havnt had a lot of experience with this stick and have only used the ls32, but its the main competitor of sanwa. A litter stiffer, shorter throw (takes less distance to activate the switch) and slighter lower to the stick. My hands are small so thats okay, but i feel like one would be cramped if they had larger hands (My opinion, not fact) lots of custom stuff for this stick out there as well. It is pointed out below that seimitsu makes a variety of joysticks, and many of them may be different than the standard ls32. Again, i have no experience with the ls 56 or other similar joysticks
Hori made. Some say this is better than a jlf. This has a loose feel in my opinion and just offers a different feel. More linear feel? Honeslty i don’t really see the difference (my opinion)
For buttons: Do you like click? do you like a light push or hard push? Haptic feedback? Colors/lights?
There is so much stuff regarding switch and plunger combos, so i’ll keep it simple.
Standard button for most sticks. You have experience with these. This offers the most colors and custom switches and led stuff. If you want the looks, this is what you need to have. The feel is a linear feel and are really light to touch to activate. They have a solid clack sound but do not click. Again, you know what these feel like.
Similar to sanwa in my opinion, just a little harder to push.
variety of feelings when pushed because they have cherry switches in them. Do research on the cherry switch and decide what you like. If you feel like you like the feel of something choose that switch, but if you like the look of sanwa look up sanwa obsmx buttons on paradise arcade shop.
American galaga style buttons, usually for wood panels. these are probably not what you want, but take some pressure to push and have an awesome click when pushed. Some say they are not ideal for fighting games, but i do just fine playing sf2 on a cabinet. these are the only buttons that are concave (sanwa are convex)
I simplified this A TON and didnt even talk about all the switch mods (american switch in sanwas) and gate mods, sanwa jlw, or any other stick combos out there because there are just so many , so take this advice with a grain of salt. Before you jump on the train of buying every configuration that ever existed, think about what other people play on. If you find yourself at locals and have to use some stick other than your stick, most likely it will have all sanwa components. Thats why i stick with sanwa jlf and sanwa buttons, so i learn the standard configuration so I can play anywhere on anyones stick. If your configuration is so complex to the point where that is literally all you can play on, you may need to reconsider how you use the stick and how you hit the buttons. Again, these parts are all a matter of preference and should compliment what you like (stiffer stick, clicky buttons, etc). This will not fix your execution problems or make you a better player, that comes with practice. Hope this helps. Coming from a person that had to transition from cabinet play (wico stick and happ buttons) to fightstick play recently, buying sanwas are probably the best for newer players like myself. Go with what you know if you are really on the fence, and try out other configs if someone at a local has it to see if you like it.
You know that Seimitsu make over 6 different joysticks, right?
I was primarily talking about the ls32, i’ll edit that
Hi, everyone. I have a PS3 TE Round 2 for which I’d like to buy new parts. Since I’m in the market, I was considering buying a new stick altogether. I was thinking maybe there are sticks with better PCBs now (in terms of reliability or lag), especially since I’d be playing mostly on a PS4 now. SF5 has legacy stick support but the thought crossed my mind that a native PS4 stick might perform better. I would also consider buying a standalone PCB and swapping out the stock TE PCB if that’s possible. Is there any benefit to getting a new stick/PCB or should I just replace the buttons and stick?
Given that your stick already has Sanwa parts, there’s no reason to replace the buttons or stick unless they’re worn out (in which case I’d sooner recommend saving yourself some money and simply replacing the microswitches) or you just want to try some different parts. As for the pcb, if you really don’t want to mess with legacy support your easiest options would either be a Brook ps3 to ps4 converter or a Brook ps3/ps4/pc pcb. Do note that all Brook products will require occasional firmware updates to keep up with Sony’s system updates. All that said, I don’t think using native support is any “better”, beyond the added convenience factor.
Actually the reason I’ve been wanting to replace the parts is because somehow they feel off from the other Sanwa parts I’ve used, even compared to other TEs. Not so much the buttons, but the stick always felt a little gummy or lacked crisp movement if that makes any sense. Maybe I got a bad batch or it was refurbished, but I never bothered to send it back because of the hassle and figured I might adjust to it or wear it in, but unfortunately it still bugs me 6 years later lol. So with the new console generation I figured it would be a good time to upgrade, but I guess it’s just the stick I need to swap out since I can deal with the inconvenience of using legacy support.
So my next question would be are there any recommendations on where to buy parts, as I’ve never done that before. And what model stick replaces the stock TE, or are there any other stick recommendations? The biggest issue I have right now is the difficulty of dashing commands, i.e. double tap Forward/Back. Often I find that I don’t return the stick far enough to register neutral before the second tap, so even though I’ve done the F, F motion, the game thinks I’ve just been holding F the whole time. Is there a stick that is better suited for dashing? (Off topic: To anyone in the business of designing sticks, maybe this could be achieved with optical sticks using separate sensors for the activation and deactivation of a direction. I.e. the stick doesn’t need to be returned all the way back to the activation point to release the direction.)
Thank you very much for the reply!
I think i might try different buttons as the sanwa buttons just feels… off to me. I’m not really sure what it is. Might be my preference in keyboard transfer to the buttons. I prefer keys with tactile feedback like the Blue and Red cherry MX keys.
As for the Joystick, I seem to like the JLF. Might try different springs. The seimitsu joystick with a shorter throw does sound very tempting.
Theres three things you can do:
Aplly new lubrication to the pivot, replace the spring and clean out the microswitches on your jlf. The cost shouldnt be more then a few dollars for the grease and the spring. I thing paradisearcade sells small quantities. You need shin etsu honda grease or molykote silicon grease.
I recommend focusattack.com if you’re in the US, very responsive with great service. As stated, lubricating the pivot in your jlf would be a good idea (and I’d part of general lever maintenance for any model), but it sounds like the characteristics of the jlf (long engage and long throw) are what’s giving you the most grief. You can tighten both of those up with a kowal actuator, or better yet try a Seimitsu lever. I’m a big fan of the LS-56, many other here favor the 40, and the 32 is very popular in general, though it’s pivot jump is huge and you have to learn not to use excessive force (which is ultimately a good thing for your levers in general). Do note that you will want a pcb variant since your stick uses a 5 pin connection- all pcb Seimitsu levers end in an -01, i.e. LS-56-01. Also, you will need an s-plate if you go with a 32, 38, or 40 in a typical jlf mount.
Thanks so much, guys. I will be looking into both those options (maintenance and new Seimitsu).