What Stick/Controller Should I Buy? Read the Guide on Pg 1 Before Posting


#3281

Looks like I made a boo boo lol. So I opened the case and disassembled the stick completely to clean it. But now when I try to use it the only directions that register are Down and Down-Left. All of the buttons are fine. At first I thought it might be a mistake with how I oriented the miscroswitches when putting it back together, but the other directions don’t even register, and I don’t understand why Down-Left registers even though Left does not. Maybe I damaged some of the components? Or maybe it’s something simple?


#3282

Nevermind, im a noob, the pin out connector was on the wrong way :confused:


#3283

So did you apply grease to the pivot?


#3284

For now I only cleaned off what grease was there. I figured it might perform worse since obviously the grease is part of the design, but surprisingly the condition did not worsen or improve. I may purchase new grease when I have a chance, along with a new joystick since I’m curious to see if it will improve my ability to dash quickly.


#3285

Should not have removed the grease, try to grease out up asap


#3286

Yeah you want to purchase and apply new grease to the joystick.
Even the smaller 1oz containers of grease will last you a while.
I had 25oz tube for about 6 years now and haven’t made a dent in it.


#3287

President Camacho have you tried out the ls-62-01 yet? I’ve had ls-32’s and ls-38’s. I’ve got kowal actuators on the way for my 2lb Spring Octo gate jlf’s. I keep going back and forth between sanwa and seimitsu for my joysticks and push buttons and can never seem to settle on one particular configuration.


#3288

Yes, I’ve got one. It’s basically just a 56 with a lighter spring, a shorter lever, and a stock octagonal gate rather than a stock square gate. It’s good, but personally I like the extra tension of the 56.


#3289

[/quote]
Yes, I’ve got one. It’s basically just a 56 with a lighter spring, a shorter lever, and a stock octagonal gate rather than a stock square gate. It’s good, but personally I like the extra tension of the 56.
[/quote]

Thanks for your opinion on the subject. I think I’ll try an ls-56 with an octo gate and order it tomorrow from FocusAttack.


#3290

So what’s the current best board for using with older consoles? PS1/2, dreamcast, original xbox era? Would it still be the cthulhu?


#3291

Yes, the MC Cthulhu.


#3292

MC Cthulhu is the best board for Retro consoles, the only old system it didn’t support was the Sega Genesis/Megadrive.
Mainly because how weird of a setup Sega made the controller setup for the Genesis.


#3293

Hi, everyone,

Presently using a Madcatz PS3 Wireless Fightpad on PS4 USF4, mostly training my hands to actually play this on a gamepad.

As I am tall, I have fairly sizeable hands, long fingers. I used to play many, many years ago only in arcade. I still have not played SF5.

Thinking of making the jump to an arcade stick (first ever), because my left thumb is quite sore and button feedback is a bit odd on the fight pad. In any case, making the jump to a stick, there seems to be a dizzying array of options, mods, etc. This is primarily for everyday online play and friends.

I think I’ve narrowed it down to the following:

  1. Qanba Q4 RAF.
  2. Hori RAP 4 Kai.
  3. Madcatz TE2+ (read about quality issues with this stick and its variants like the TES+)

Sadly, I also noticed the new Ultimate MvC 3 just released at PSX does not have support for the Madcatz Wifi Fightpad.

If anyone has any feedback and suggestions about the three above (or another), I would greatly appreciate it.

Cheers,
Wilde


#3294

Get the Hori, it’s cheaper and has quality stuff on it. The TE2 is absurdly overpriced for what you get with,I don’t know the Qanba that well and isn’t ps4 official so you ended up to face issues if you wanna play SFV in the future (possible,but you have to keep the DualShock connected,a bit annoying).


#3295

HRAP4 Kai, it’s a good stick for the price. The Hayabusa is pretty good and some prefer it over the JLF, pretty customizable and uses almost all aftermarket JLF parts. The buttons are fine too, I prefer Sanwas myself, but the Hayabusa buttons aren’t bad either. Of course wait next year and you could also have a Hori Fighting Edge as another option which was a sexy beast last gen.


#3296

Thanks to both of you.

In your opinion, between the HRAP4 Kai and the the Madcatz TE S+ ? Is it worth the slightly extra money?

Thanks!


#3297

I’d still get the HRAP4 Kai, equally good, but HRAP4 is just cheaper.


#3298

Is the TE2+ a reliable stick? Mine has issues where the buttons don’t work at times. I believe it’s the PCB. I’m sending it in to get it repaired by MadCatz. However, I am unsure if I want to keep the stick because I keep hearing people with similar issues. Due the newer manufactured versions still have problem with the PCB? Or is the thing overblown? Is there a solderless PCB I can by if worse comes to worst? Is it easy to do?

I also have an offer from someone who is willing to sell their Hori HRAP4 Kai to me for $75 (it has a broken door though). So I am considering selling the open box MadCatz and use the HRAP4 instead. However, I’m not sure how the HRAP4 Kai is either. Would you guys recommend that I keep the MadCatz and leave the HRAP4 alone, or sell the MadCatz and buy the HRAP4?


#3299

The complaints about the te2+ pcb are pretty frequent. For someone looking for a new stick most people would recommend hori at this point, but in your case it depends on how much you could get for your te2+.
There is a solderless replacement pcb option in the form of a UFB + ez mod, but the cost of the pcb + ezmod alone would be higher then what you can get the kai for. Also you would loose touchpad functionality since it looks like brook have canceled their plans for implementing it on the ufb.


#3300

How the hell does the most premium fightstick on the market have such a bad defective problem?

Does the RAP4 use the same layout as Madcatz? If not, what’s the advantages/disadvantages of its layout.