Which joystick has the most difficult e-clip to remove


my vote goes to the Suzo 500, a pin in the ass to remove and even more so to put back on,

easiest i would say is the jlf



Though technically it’s a cir-clip.


The crap joystick Qanba makes that in the PDp Injustice stick and the New Qanba Q1 is a pain in the ass.


really? all it took was a small jewelry/watch flathead screw driver o_o



Just about what I was going to say!

The C-clip on the LS-32 joysticks is a pain-in-the-ass.

It’s also a pain-in-the-ass to install the replacement E-clip you buy for it the first time. That E-clip gets easier to remove and re-install after Round 1 but the first install has always been the toughest one for me!

What the hell was Seimitsu thinking with that joystick design??? As much as I like it in general, it still has a few “gotcha’s” and quirks about it… the C-clip, the lack of a dedicated shaft cover, and all those screws in the plastic base being just the first few of the questions about the design of the thing!

The only reason I haven’t thrown an LS-32 across the room is a) it’s too expensive to replace joystick parts like that; and b) the performance advantages over the JLF [for me] are such that I still love my new “precious” despite the fact it only has a few less desirable “personality quirks” than a housecat!

(Cats = “evil, spoiled brats…” Even those of who like cats understand that! LOL)

and not long ago…
c) I found an LS-32 clone that’s very good and a better option for silent mods if I ever wanted to do one of those! Way, way cheaper than a JLF silent mod…


nothing is hard
you need only correct tool guys

LS32 and suzo clip is "simmering"
this is correct “german” name
if you have tool is best option and very easy to taking off
more more a lot of easily the than any e-clip


Snap Ring Pliers


Even with the right tool to remove and re-install the LS-32 C-clip, the metal in the C-clip degrades very quickly and becomes far less elastic after a few removals. It just won’t remain in the correct holding shape even if you have the “right tool” which I DO. (It’s one of the worst $10-$12 I ever spent. It’s a one-use tool that’s made for one of the crappiest pieces of hardware it’s been my displeasure to work with!) I had the C-clip pop off once or twice on the last LS-32 I tried to use it with… Right then and there, I pitched it and replaced it with a spare 7/8" E-clip. I’ve never had a 7/8" E-clip pop off any of my LS-32-01’s. They stay on solidly!

The best advice – pitch the C-clip as soon as possible… especially if you’re going to experiment with changing the joystick lever tension – in other words, putting in higher tension springs, mixing in another LS-32 spring, etc. Not a lot of people leave the LS-32 alone… I put in extra spring halves (screwed onto the ends of the intact spring) to increase the tension a bit, too.

Even if you weren’t to change the spring tension, it would be well-advised to go ahead and exchange the C-clip with a 7/8" or 7/16" E-clip. The C-clip is made out of very cheap metal that won’t take removal and reinstallation well at all (besides being a pain to deal with, period)… I don’t know how well the C-clip holds up even if it isn’t touched. It could fail on its own without being touched by tools.

The LS-32 never ceases to amaze me with all the differences from the other LS-series joysticks. This is the only one (aside from the out-of-production analog joystick) that doesn’t have a production shaft cover or an E-clip to hold the lever assembly together! It’s very idiosyncratic and different from the other joysticks Seimitsu makes.

I’m surprised that Seimitsu chose to modify the LS-56 into the LS-58 instead of tackling the LS-32’s design and construction issues. That one never made much sense to me when it’s the LS-32 that needed a few changes – a) simpler construction, b) a shaft cover, c) E-clip, d) preferrably a smaller base and smaller PCB, and e) far fewer screws in construction. The screws don’t sound like a big issue until you realize you have to remove something like 10 of them (IF you have the blue subguide restrictor still attached) to be able to take off the PCB from the LS-32-01. It just adds time to doing mods and unit refurbishment (changing out of worn-out joystick lever parts) and is something of a pain. One of the things Sanwa did right with the JLF was designing it as a snap-together unit with as few screws needed as possible!

Don’t get me wrong – I like my LS-32’s but the design itself, as nicely as it performs, is far from perfect. Still much prefer the way it handles over the JLF or Happ joystick levers.


I was a Sanwa JLF fan until I got and used a LS-32. Barring flaws in the LS-32 design I sometimes puzzled how the Sanwa JLF got to be the worlds most used Joystick.
I am much more precise with the LS-32 in Fighters, Shmups, scrolling Beat-em-downs and other arcade games. LS-56 was close but its more unforgiving to me.


I use custom screw driver bit, flat with cut for e-clip
easy to made work fine


I like the LS-32 too, i just wanted it to not feel grindy when it’s new.


Lighter, less sensitive lever is better for fighters.


Depends on the user.

I personally hate the LS-32, but whenever I use one I always place much higher in tournaments than if I was using a JLF. This upsets me deeply.