I posted previously about my TE breaking here. http://shoryuken.com/f177/did-i-kill-my-te-217974/ I finally got around to replacing the joystick but after only two weeks the replacement is beginning to have the exact same problem.
These things are designed to be abused in arcades and TEs don’t have a reputation for poor reliability so why the hell could this be happening? I can’t afford to use a stick if there is going to be a $40 a month subscription fee in replacement parts.
I’d say the first time around you were too rough on it, this time you may have soldered it poorly, or if it’s literally the exact same problem you’re likely just WAY too hard on your sticks.
where did you get the replacement from
Its not even possible to be way too hard on them, I’ve seen and done some pretty hard thrashing on a TE, i think the op botched the replacement
wtf, do you curb stomp them when you lose?
or how the hell do you hold it.
have someone look at how you use your TE, otherwise sanwa may not be for you
Take pictures of the inside so we can help you narrow down the issue. I can offer one solution. The popping could be the inside black dust washer getting stuck. This happened on an HRAP3 because the top panels mounts were bent incorrectly. So basically, the washer would rub the mount and when you pushed it far enough, it popped and felt fine the rest of the way. I bent the mounts to the correct degree and the joystick sat fine and the black dust washer didn’t hit the sides of the mount. I doubt your original stick is broken, but good luck finding the problem.
Gremlin Solutions
I use the Daigo wineglass grip. I do tend to throw it around the gate but I play completely from my wrist and surely it can’t compare to the amount of punishment these things are designed to take from kids in arcades.
I tried removing the inner dust washer and it didn’t make a difference. It’s more of a deep squeak and it feels sort of like it’s moving through an area of great friction and that the popping is a side effect of throwing the stick through it quickly.
I can take pictures but it all looks like it was when new to me. Exactly which parts would you guys like to see?
Mounting plate, mounting bracket, stick body, dust washer, pivot.
If he replaced the entire JLF and it still has a problem then it’s either a knock-off JLF or it’s the mounting plate(the one welded inside the TE) or dust washer
I would think
So when you hold the joystick (uninstalled out of the top panel), then does it still give you this issue? Like you tested for any binding? So uninstall joystick or take your previous one. Hold the complete JLF your left hand and test the joystick with your right hand to see if there’s any binding in the pivot.
Sorry for the late reply been VERY busy lately.
It’s not as apparent but it feels like the stick still has the problem when not installed. I should hopefully have some pics and a clip of myself using the stick tomorrow for analysis. Seems unlikely to me that it could be a problem with a knock off jlf when the default one it shipped with had the same problem. Especially considering that it’s one of the recommended retailers from the sticky in this forumI
Could the mounting bracket of the TE really permanently damage the JLF?
Your sticks not broke either one, You need joystick lube after so long the sticks lube naturally goes bye bye, So you have to buy lube and relube the white piece and over the washer or something like that, I don’t remember the places you have to lube, I just remember the white piece you can get lube at lizardlick.com in the arcade parts then joysticks they should have some lube in there somewhere
Perhaps he tries to play on his TE like one would on a Happ: With tons of rough, full-arm torque, and heavy force during movements.
I’ve seen many a newb attempt arcade gameplay, jerking the happ around and putting way more force than necessary into movements, until they just gradually learned how to play better.
I dunno if a Sanwa could take quite that level of a beating lol.
Edit: I’ve even seen long-time experienced players treat a Sanwa pretty roughly at first, because all they had used up till that point were Happ controls.
i didnt think about this before, but what sort of climate do you live in?
i dont think its possible but maybe weather is having an impact on the stick (to think a stick would need lube so fast is bit weird)
OK I got around to snapping some pics today. I’m afraid that they came out a bit blurry as I’m not much of a photographer.
http://img375.imageshack.us/img375/4795/dscf1054g.th.jpg
http://img696.imageshack.us/img696/3669/dscf1056.th.jpg
http://img709.imageshack.us/img709/6571/dscf1060g.th.jpg
I do tend to ride the gate pretty hard during rapid circular motions like rekkas and ultras.
I’m from the uk so it tends to be very damp, humid and chilly.
Hmmm I think that black spring seat (where the spring sits on top of) has too much lube it looks like. Wipe some of that off and transfer it to the bottom of the white pivot piece. The spring seat should not have that much lube. Not sure about resistance, but it would cause that metal washer to lift and make a popping noise on some JLF joysticks. Good Luck
Is that an JLF from a TE? I dont think sanwa uses lock tight on their sticks.
That looks like red glue that all the TE sticks have. Not really loctite as it comes off really easy.
