I have a Q3 also, but I went about it another way. I had a 2mm black plexi cut for a 24mm hole and a rectangular hole for the PS3/PS4 switch.
Man, I wish they sold the connector for the USB version separately, like they do with the RJ45.
Q3 is a great stick. May absolute fav.
You should countersink those screws man!
This. Most people who use the Neutrik already have to tools to make an extra 24mm hole for it.
You can modify the usb cable to work with the rj45.
I’ve added micro-USB-B jacks on a couple of sticks where a Neutrik wouldn’t fit because it would be too big
A clean look, but tedious to measure, drill, and finish.
- Exar Exaprize USB Sanwa Edition
- Intec Combat Stick
I used to do something similar but this would actually trigger my OCD even more. I hated uneven rectangles or how they would almost never be parallel with the case lines. It’s just way more work for something that will still look hand made and that just bugged me. All these examples given proof my point exactly, you can see the time invested in the project but even then, the lines and rectangles aren’t as clean as drilling a circle for a Neutrik.
In the process of wiring up another stick for myself, and I thought about putting in a micro-USB-B jack like the above, but decided against it for the exact reasons that you mentioned. I just drilled in (or rather, Dremeled in) a Neutrik instead.
It definitely takes practice to get the lines clean and square. My example above was probably a couple hours of filing and fitting after rough cutting with the dremel. But while it’s not perfect, for me, it looks better than having the ugly housing plate of the Neutrik sticking out like a sore thumb. Nothing screams “add-on” like that housing, whereas going for the integrated look is cleaner if done with a little patience.
I guess it’s a matter of personal opinion. To me, even the slightest uneven line takes away from the clean look.
I love the way the Neutrik looks on my Panzer (with the gasket of course). I like the amp/audio look I guess.
but I have yet to see a perfectly dremeled rectangle that doesn’t bother me.
I don’t like the look of the Neutrik on its own on the outside of the case. It’s MUCH nicer when either a) using the rubber boot/gasket, or b) when the Neutrik is mounted from the inside with countersunk screws (will only work with the NAUSB, won’t work with the Neutrik RJ-45 or Switchcraft adapters).
Just to be clear, I’m not bashing your install @opt2not , it’s actually one of the cleanest I’ve seen.
There always the XRL compatible DB 9 from Switch craft, if you want the ease of installing a Switchcraft/Neutrik pass-though but think RJ45 connectors are garbage
Here is a sample whats out there if you are willing to look
Not pictured, HDMI passthough
Thanks again for all the replies everyone.
A follow-up question: it seems like most people go the Neutrik route, which means either USB type B or RJ45. Some people add both jacks, but is there any preference here? RJ45 cables do have a built-in locking feature, unlike typical USB type B.
RJ-45 has enough lines for legacy console support (PS1/PS2 controllers are 8 wires, Dreamcast is 5, SNES is 7-8, etc).
People mainly use a just-USB Neutrik for “modern” consoles (X360, PS3, XBO, PS4).
I think the Neutrik USB A to B is the most reasonable simple because of how common the USB A to B cable is. How often can you walk into a generic store and find an ethernet to USB cable? Never, while you can easily find a standard printer cable(which is USB A to B).
Although, I do very much like the original poster’s pictures of different USB A to B connectors used. I believe the USB A to B interface is the best solution at the moment, but not necessarily the Neutrik since some people don’t like the look.
I personally use the Neutrik A to B since it’s readily available and every system and console I need it for uses USB A. For example, my dreamcast or PS2 solution, I’ll go with the ethernet/cat5 to desired legacy support since those are also readily available at arcadeshock, focusattack, and play-asia.
Unless you are making your own harnesses and cables, just stick with what is most commonly used and available so that your support and community help is easier to come by. Saves time and headache.
Also this, another good reason why legacy support uses cat5/rj45/ethernet. Otherwise just stick with USB A to B
I did that back when I had a PS360+ and when I first got a UFB. After I put in a Kaimana, it didn’t seem like I was getting enough power drawn as the LEDs were dim and I was getting dropped inputs. Switching to all USB seemed to fix it but maybe I just wired everything crappily since I was using Scotchlok butt connectors instead of soldering.
EDIT: Never mind, I assumed you meant changing the end of the cable to RJ45. I might actually do that mod in the link.
im surprised this isnt used more in sticks, micro-usb-B’s are surprisingly sturdy and secure. #sidenote
Thanks for the replies everyone; this is becoming an interesting and informative thread
On a non-legacy stick I’m thinking USB type A to B is the way to go; nice thick cables and they’re readily available in long lengths (I’m pretty sure I have an unused 15 foot one somewhere ). Micro USB is also intriguing, because you can buy one with a breakout board for like $1. However, on a larger stick it might look kinda funny.
As long as the USB cable on my stick holds up I’m not gonna mod anything, but I’m still toying with the idea of a non-Neutrik route. I’m not gonna buy a locking cable, and I don’t want to drill a new 24mm hole, so I’m trying to come up with a less invasive method, probably by modifying the existing USB hole to fit a female USB type B jack. I think it’ll take some filing, but not much. From what I’ve seen online it can’t be too deep either unless I want to cut into the insides of the case (which I don’t; least invasive method).
Hopefully if nothing else we’ve got some solid info here and maybe a springboard for modding ideas