Why has my stick stop working


can someone please help me or at least give me an idea on y my stick stop working? i have a madcatz se modded with a sanwa stick and seimitsu buttons . i installed all that last june , worked perfect but a few days ago the stick stopped working and the only direction it goes is down and it permanently stuck in the down direction. why is that? i checked if the switch was set to dp, i checked the connector to see if it was loose or in wrong and it wasnt.


sounds familiar probably that metal washer is out of place… or worst case scenario rubbed on the pcb and damaged it (doubt it).

probably one of these two issues


i tried the glue fix cause apparently the washer was loose(on a sanwa, not the madcatz knock off) and no luck


that means the loose washer did too much damage to the pcb, i think you might have to buy a new stick, or if you have a spare stick, swap out the pcb.


that sux btw what type of stick fits the madcatz se again? i totally forgot lol


I know that my repsonse wasn’t for your situation.
Mine is only for those with already working Joysticks who newly installed.

You have different problem.

But I want to see a picture of your TP-MA first.
I want to see if there are any scratches on the PCB due to Washer.

Any Sanwa JLF will go in.
All Sanwa JLF are the same; some just have different prefixes to show what is added on.

Here the six variations listed in Sanwa Catalog ('07~'08):
JLF-TP-8 is Base JLF.
JLF-TP-8Y is Base JLF with the TP-MA (PCB) rotated 90.
JLF-TP-8T is Base JLF with JLF-P-1 (Flat Mounting Plate).
JLF-TP-8YT is Base JLF with the TP-MA (PCB) rotated 90 with JLF-P-1 (Flat Mounting Plate).
JLF-TP-8S is Base JLF with the TP-MA (PCB) rotated 90 with JLF-P-1S (S Mounting Plate).
JLF-TP-8Y-SK is Base JLF with the TP-MA (PCB) rotated 90 with JLF-CD (Shaft Cover).

Of course other variations can be done too:

I’ll just add this for completeness, since it is JLF:
JLF-TM-8 can do; JLF-TM-8T, JLF-TM-8T-SK, JLF-TM-8S, JLF-TM-8S-SK.

You can use any of those.

JLF-TP-8 you will rotate PCB and use old Mounting Plate or buy Sanwa JLF-P-1.
JLF-TP-8Y you will use old Mounting Plate or buy Sanwa JLF-P-1 to mount in Case.
JLF-TP-8T you will rotate PCB and just pop into the Case after removing old Joystick.
JLF-TP-8YT you will just pop into the Case after removing old Joystick and mount in Case.
JLF-TP-8S you will remove JLF-P-1S, rotate PCB and use old Mounting Plate or buy Sanwa JLF-P-1.

(I’m just explaining for some. There are of course more variations.)

You see that I did not mention anything with [SK]?
That is because it is nothing to how Sanwa JLF fit into Mad Catz Street Fighter IV Arcade FightStick.
It is just a Shaft Cover; there for looks.

Once you have a JLF in your hands, rotating the PCB can be done in only five seconds.
It is super easy.

Here is removing Restrictor Gate.
Here is rotating of PCB.

If want save money, and shop you are buying from has JLF-TP-8Y cheaper than JLF-TP-8YT, then get JLF-TP-8Y.
Just use the old Mounting Plate.

But if you don’t want to do the work of unscrewing the old Mounting Plate off, then buy JLF-TP-8YT.
Some shops sell JLF-TP-8YT with Mounting Plate not pre-installed, so you may have to screw it on yourself.
But if you will be screwing on Mounting Plate, might as well start out with JLF-TP-8Y right?

But installing a Mounting Plate requires taking apart Joystick.
So might as well start out with JLF-TP-8 right?
That doesn’t matter though, as I don’t think I’ve seen shop with JLF-TP-8, just JLF-TP-8Y.
Rotating PCB very simple and quick though.

So, choose which you want.
Choose on how much you want to spend.
Choose on how much work you want to do.

And one last thing to end this Post.
If you will be reusing the old Mounting Plate, just reuse the screws.
And also, the screws need something to hold onto; they grab on the nuts.

These nuts are located in the black Joystick Base.
After you remove the Restrictor Gate, lift off the Joystick PCB.
Underneath, you will then see the four nuts the screws are threading into.

But if for some reason you do not want to reuse the screws and nuts, you can go out to buy.

Get some M3 (3mm) screws of .5mm Pitch at length of 8 or 10mm.
SRK Member MnShredder recommend 8mm because it seems 10mm touch the PCB.

For the nuts, get M3 (3mm) of .5mm Pitch.

Seimitsu LS-32-01 fit; rotate PCB.
Seimitsu LS-40-01 fit; replace default RE Mounting Plate with SS Mounting Plate.

Seimitsu LS-55-01 fit.
Seimitsu LS-56-01 fit; replace default VF Mounting Plate with MS Mounting Plate.



you can probably get away with
1x TP-MA Replacement PCB Switch Assembly for about $13
and take it apart / reglue and take your chances

full replacement -
Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT-SK Ball Handle Joystick, 4 & 8-Way Adjustable for about $25


Because it is not an HRAP.


Everytime you touch yourself at night, God kills an arcade stick.



heres my pcb


I can’t really see if your PCB is scratched or not.

Now here is a scratched PCB.


Ok, I have a test for you to do to determine if your Joystick PCB is faulty, or somewhere along wires, or Mad Catz PCB.
One way requires you to cut Wire Harness and cut Trace on TP-MA, other way does not require.
I don’t think you want to cut, so I tell you other.

Do you still have stock Mad Catz Joystick?
Hope you still do.

Connect the Mad Catz Joystick.
Does only DOWN work still?

If only DOWN works, then problem is not in your Sanwa JLF.
Problem would be somewhere like Mad Catz PCB or Wire Harness.

If all Directions work with your Mad Catz Joystick, then problem is your Sanwa JLF.
Just buy a new TP-MA.


i dont have the stock stick anymore, that had the down situation too after the 2nd day of use, and those traces u show on that pic i dont have at all on my sanwa pcb its all green and no gold traces or anything., i tried to do the washer fix with the the old stick and it didnt work so i bought a sanwa(everything came with it) up till a week ago it only started registering down. so would i have to get a whole new sanwa?




Cut the lines of your Stick PCB, solder/QuickConnect to the switches and call it a day.
Is there any reason this hasn’t been done yet of even suggested?
Takes the guess work right out.

Good luck

PS, wait…have you already swapped the stick? I might be misreading your post #12.
If that is the case, there seems to be an issue with your main PCB rather then a faulty stick. You might wanna get a potentiometer and test your board.


yea i swapped it out last year, and up until a week ago it went from working fine to being stuck in the down position,i tried the glue fix since i noticed the washer was kinda loose, and it didnt work. i was looking for an alternative way to deal with this instead of buying a new sanwa but i may have too. any other suggestions


Like I said, you can solder directly to the switches after you cut your traces on the JLF PCB but you should still make sure it’s not your main PCB’s fault, as a new stick wont do diddly squat to address that issue.


I figured I’d join this thread since I’m having the same issue, but with my TE Fightstick which I started using back in June of 2009.

I thought perhaps my joystick had gone bad so I swapped it out with another Sanwa JLF I bought when I was in Japan, but the issue persisted so I was sure it wasn’t the joystick. What’s odd is my joystick controller would still act as if you’re holding down even if only the buttons were plugged in.

One of my friends took a look inside and mentioned the down direction is open to ground as if the joystick is completing the circuit, but the circuit is complete whether or not a joystick is connected.

At this point I’m researching whether it would be a safe bet to replace the main PCB with a Cthulu board otherwise I’m going to wait and see if I can get my hands on the new Hori RAP V3 SA. I’ll post updates if I find any new information.


The capacitor for the down direction on my TE Fightstick is bad. Re-soldering the point didn’t solve the issue and I can’t replace the capacitor until I figure out what the rating is.