Wireless Matrix PCB for the 360 questions


Three questions guys.

1. So I have 2 of those early Matrix wireless PCB’s and I want a wireless stick. From what I understand, it is still possible to use this PCB, it’ll just take a little more work.

I checked slagcoin and found the diagram for this PCB:
Xbox 360 wireless (early version)(Matrix?)

Since this isn’t a CG PCB, I originally thought you would have to wire 2 wires per button on the PCB but after studying the diagram, it looks some of the buttons share a ‘common’.

Looking at the signal points for X, B, and Y, notice the letters are labeled in purple while the solder points for the respective X, B, and Y are in blue meaning this is where you get signal. There is also a ‘common’ solder point in purple near the Y signal point. Please tell me my understanding is correct.

X, B, and Y’s signal come from the blue points from the PCB, then go to their arcade buttons where they are shorted and then can be daisy chained (X, B, and Y only) into the purple ‘common’ on the PCB.

If this is true than does that mean I don’t have to run two wires per button on the PCB, instead just daisy chain a specific group of buttons to their respective ‘common’?

2. Also, I read on Xbox scene that the triggers on these PCB’s are independant from the rest of the matrix. So does that mean I could just put a 10k resister between T1 and T3, and then short the arcade button between T1 and T2?

3. Reading around SRK, it looks like alot of people with wireless 360 sticks don’t even use a sync button b/c when you hook up a usb to charge the battery, it automatically sync’s the PCB to the Xbox. Is this true for all wireless 360 PCB’s?

Thanks ahead of time guys, I know I could avoid all of the extra work by going the wired route or even getting a CG wireless controller but I don’t want to spend any more $ plus I think I’m up for the challenge.

Thanks again guys!


I really don’t have answers for 2 and 3, but for 1, your understanding of the drawing is correct. All the blues circles are the signal points, while, like your example, x, b, and y share that same common point.

You certainly could wire it up chaining each group to its respective common. You just have to be a little more careful that things don’t get crossed, or you might end up with unexpected commands.

To give a bit of background, here’s a matrix explanation I typed earlier (don’t feel like editing it):
For a quick example, if you had six buttons (let’s call them A-F), then for a common ground setup, you would obviously need six signal wires and a ground wire. But for a matrix, you would only need four wires (let’s call them 1-4)

x 1 2 3 4
1 x A B C
2 A x D E
3 B D x F
4 C E F x

So, you see, if points 1, 2, 3, and 4 are at different voltages, then the difference between each is a button press. So here, you could say that buttons A, B, and C all have the same “ground” because point “1” is common for all those buttons. In the same right, buttons C, E, and F all use the same “signal” because point “4” is common.

  1. Yes.
  2. Yes, RDL’s matrix is very helpful. Follow his little paragraph about which resistor to use.
  3. For mine, I put in a sync button. Its easy, and only 1 extra wire since sync shares a ground.


Ok, if I have to use this matrix PCB, I will. I’m trying to see if anyone I know will trade me their pad b/c I’ve done a CG pad before. Thanks for the help guys


its just some extra soldering, but i can see why you’d rather not want to deal with it. so far i’ve done 1 non-com wired and 1 non-com wireless.


Yeah, I’ve done a CG wired and it came out good, triggers and everything. I don’t have to do the non-CG pad anymore b/c my brother traded controllers with me. Now I’m gonna research the CG wireless :wink:


I’ve got a question about alternate solder points on the early version wireless pad as described in the first question. I’ve done a cg wired, and I’m attempting a wireless with that pad. When i did my first one i messed up a couple solder points on the D-pad, but on slagcoin’s diagram for the wired cg controller it has alternate connection points on the back of the pad. I ended up screwing up again on the new pad, but I can’t for the life of me find a diagram for alternate points. And I really dont want to go and buy a multimeter to test the whole board… Thanks for any help you can offer