Woodwork, Router Not Available


#1

Hi there, great wealth of info on here but I’m still at a loss for my housing.
I’m planning to build a stick with Japanese parts but I have limited woodworking tools and renting a router’s quite expensive.

I really need to build the box as cheap as pos for now.

Could I get an opinion on the option I’m considering or other alternatives?

What about if I made the top out of 3 pieces? One 3mm Lexan, a 6mm MDF piece which I’d countersink screws into and make my button holes, then another MDF piece with large holes to avoid routing and allow me to screw in the buttons and just glue the MDF together?

Is this a good idea?
Can I get pointed to anything else to consider?

I’d like to have a decent finished product but I havn’t got cash to spend on anything more than parts for now.

Any help’d be greatly appreciated.


#2

You could go the route I chose on my Sanwa stick. Basically for my top panel I used a piece of plywood that was about 1/4" to 5/16" thick and then a 1/8" thick piece of plexi glass on top. The thickness of the entire top panel was such that I could bottom mount my JLF and still have the recommended 24-25mm of the shaft on the top.

Although because of the thickenss of the plywood you are going to have to have either a dremel with a cutting disk or a hack saw and file. This is because when you screw the joystick onto the plywood from the bottom, you are going to have part of the screw sticking out of the top. So with either the dremel or a hack saw and file you are going to have to cut the screw and make it flush with the plywood.

Even though there isnt much wood for the screws to hold on to, the joystick will be mounted secruly. In fact on my stick I only mounted it with two screws using the two staggered holes on the JLF mounting plate instead of the four holes on the corners. And even with those two screws the stick is held firmly in place.


#3

If you are short on money you could be creative and do what some others did, use a cigarbox or foldup chessboard.


#4

Or mod an existing stick, I think thats the best layout on a budget. Routers are amazing machines though.


#5

Same prob though pc1x1, no money for a shell to gut.
If this doesn’t work out well I’ll go for that or get a router, it’d be real nice to have some curves on it.
I’ve prob got my old NES Advantage stick still in a garage but I don’t think that’ll cut it. :wgrin:

Ok thanks for the advice, I think I’ll try Chaosdragon13’s method.
I was just worried it’ll be enough material to take a bashing, maybe I’ll add some supports as well.

Guess it’ll be a bit of trial and error.

Thanks for the help, see how it goes.


#6

I dont know how much of a beating you are planning on your stick taking, but it holds up fine for me.

There are two ways you can set the top and bottom panels in when doing the way I did. One way involes a router, which you dont have, and the other is to use supports around the perimeter of the frame.

When using supports people with thicker top panels will only use one in each corner, although if you do it that way the panel will flex too much. So for the size of my stick, 12"x8" I added one extra support for each side and in the back I had to add two because of the d-sub connector of the UPCB.

To get an idea of what I am talking about here’s a picture of the inside of my stick.
http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x277/Chaosdragon13/th_Inside.jpg

For the supports you can either glue them in or use a screw. I didnt want to waitfor glue to dry and wanted to make sure it wouldnt break off if it took a beating so I screwed them in.


#7

you can use chisel+hammer to route the top layer(s) of plywood. cheap and works great ! :tup: