WTB: Super Gun with PlayStation port


#1

Not sure if anyone can do this, but i’ll pay pretty well if someoone can do this.


#2

I could do it, but its a shit ton of work. Give your price and details (what boards will be used with it, size or material restrictions, etc.


#3

Well, I already have a Supergun Playstation port project almost done (it’s done coding, I just need to burn it and test them). I can make the port but it’ll just be the port and not the whole Supergun.


#4

is it like a db15(or w/e is std for superguns) to psx converter? if so that sounds pretty hot.


#5

Been wanting something like this for a long time–keep me updated.


#6

laugh, would it be just what N-Ken said, a PSX female port connector and a DB 15 pin Male connector for the other side?


#7

Something like that. I was mainly building this for myself so I was just gonna use whatever I can find that was good enough for the connection.


#8

laugh: I’ll pay you welll if you can make me a couple more…


#9

laugh dunno if you want to do a bunch of them but if you feel like it let me know about how much you’d charge, Im interested in a couple depending on how much theyd run.


#10

I went ahead and ordered all the necessary parts today to start testing the code on the real hardware and fine-tune things. I’ll let you guys know how I do.

If I were to make more and sell them to people, I think I would have to wait till I have finished making it. I am trying to eventually make a converter that will convert two PSX/PS2 controllers at the same time, and for that, I would charge about $90-100.

Would people prefer to have two single converters instead of one double converter? Also, would people prefer the bare pcb so that it’s easier to hide it inside a supergun or a consolized board, or would people prefer to have the converter in some kind of independent housing with Dsub ports or JAMMA edge connectors? any input on these things would be great.


#11

Probably prefer independent housing but it doesnt make a huge difference to me, Im definitely interested in a pair if you get them working well and I can use it with my supergun pinout(D-Lite gun)


#12

Hey laugh,

Personally, I would prefer two single converters with some kind of independent housing and edge connectors. I think a double converter would look a little tacky, and I use a Japanese Sigma series Supergun which is way too small to fit any kind of bare PCB.

Since most Superguns already have DB15 connectors, it would be a ton of work to modify them and add Playstation ports. Also, there are a lot of Supergun users (like SHMUPS fans) that only need one controller and thus one converter.

So: two single converters, inside an independent housing! Please!! Would gladly pay $90-$100 for this.


#13

Has this been done yet? I am also willing to pay well for this. I am currently building a Super Gun for my ST board and would to be able to use my Hori sticks!


#14

I’ve been working on it like no tomorrow since thursday. The code is perfectly fine, but it refuses to work on the real hardware. The microcontroller itself is working fine (tested with simple codes), but it’s either the program that’s not programmed properly somewhere (I doubt it, but stuff like this happen too often with codes) or the frequency I’m running the code at is off. If none of these turn out to be the cause, I’m thinking about coding a few more things in the the program and see what happens.


#15

Assuming you are staying with digital and/or dual shock 1 support, the serial clock frequency should be right around 250KHz. It’s not really worth it to try DS2 support since you only need digital information. Give it your best, and let me know if you give up on it so I can give it a swing.


#16

I got it to work!!

After a couple more hours of testing theories as to why the perfectly fine code wasn’t working, I got it to blink LEDs whenever I pressed respective buttons on the controller. It’s now working beautifully.

I’ve tested every type of pad/stick I have at home. And here’re the results from testing the converter on them.

PS1 Dual Shock A Series - Working
PS1 Dual Shock H Series - Working
PSOne white DualShock A Series - Working
PS2 Dual Shock 2 A Series - Working
PS1 Hori CommandStick PS (programmable controller) - Working
PS1 Hori FightingStick PS - Working
PS1 first party digital pad - Working
PS1 ASCII programmable pad - not working (I think it needs 7.5v supply as well to operate).

It took a little more thinking and fine tuning to get it right.


#17

WOW! great stuff laugh!

so will you have these for sale soon?


#18

great job!


#19

Yay!!! You Rock! I can’t wait to see the finished product!


#20

I forgot that I also have a third party digital controller that I made into a stick. I tested it, and it’s also working with no problem. The converter also works with the analog on (red light) and off (no light), and switching to and from digital/analog modes didn’t cause any problem either. I think it’s safe to say that the compatibility is very good.

Toodles - Although I didn’t get to see your post until I had it working, 250KHz clock signal and a couple other timing related codes are what fixed it. I’ve read else where that the clock signal could be faster than 250KHz so I’ve been using a faster clock signal all along. Thanks though, I appreciate the help.