I’m attempting to build my first custom stick as playing SF2 on the 360 pad is just a waste of time.
I was just wondering if anyone had any tips for wiring a JLF to a hacked 360 pad?
It’s the grounds that are confusing me, I have the 5-pin connector but fear it’s going to be useless and I’m at a bit of a loss as to how to get round that.
The buttons look straighforward enough, rather than daisy chaining I’m just soldering to each ground individually, to avoid any confusion!
I believe someone has posted a map to the 360 pad on the padhacking thread. the JLF uses one ground (black wire) for all of the directions, so if the 360 pads directionals share a ground, you should be good.
ah, well that sucks. you could also use a JLW instead, as it uses seperate switches that would be easy to wire up. (unless you want an octagon restrictor or something, but you can put a circular one on a jlw.) Although you probably already have a JLF you want to use, so…
I cannot get my JLF to come to pieces to look at the circuit board! I think somebody welded all the screws in place…
I do have a JLF, but I’m not against the idea of replacing it with something else if it solves the problem. I’m not planning on this being my only stick anyway, so it wouldn’t go wrong!
If you don’t want to demolish your JLF PCB you can buy loose microswitches which you connect directly to, Sanwa’s product code for these are MS-Y-3 and you will obviously need four of them. Akihabara Shop can hook you up.
?? You dont need a screwdriver to disassemble the JLF, only to remove it from whatever its mounted on. To disassemble it go to the bottom, and push in the four black tabs that are holding the clear restrictor in. Restrictor comes off, then the pcb slides right off.
There’s no need to switch to a whole 'nuther stick if you need separate lines for each direction. Just remove the stock pcb, and put four regular microswitches in its place. The switches are a very standard size and shape (I just tested with the cheapass switches from an old Red Octane stick) and there is one pin on the black housing and two pins on the clear restrictor, that will hold each microswitch in the proper place.
Buying four cherry microswitches is much cheaper and easier than buying a new JLW.
Excellent, thanks Toodles.
For some reason I thought you had to take it to bits from the top, and I’d already tried taking the mounting plate off to turn it, and found it was impossible!
I’ll try switching out the microswitches first then, as I’d rather keep the JLF!