This only works when the magnet is still influencing the hall effect sensor. I.e., Adding a second trigger while retaining the original trigger.
In @bagootimbre 's case, he has removed the shell and triggers with the magnets (based on his photos). We are discussing removing the hall effect sensor and biasing it slightly with a resistor based voltage divider to provide the controller with what it expects as a neutral position on the trigger. Once that’s in play you could ground the output of the voltage divider to “activate” the trigger. However, @bagootimbre 's fight stick is not utilizing the triggers so they just need to be neutralized and removed from the equation.
@Greengummybears good for you using the 100 ohm resistor to provide some protection to the circuit. I would recommend pushing that value as high as you can go to reliably trigger the input. Try starting with a 1K and go up or down from there. It is always a good idea to reduce current flow to an absolute minimum to accomplish any task while enhancing circuit protection in the process.
As for troubleshooting your issue, I suggest a good visual inspection of the pcb and not just the areas where you performed rework. If you don’t spot anything, try undoing your modification and see if the controller behavior reverts to normal expected behavior. Beyond that you will need some tools like a good meter or better yet, an oscilloscope to troubleshoot things quickly.