Xbox One PadHack Thread - Calling the goons "Toodles, Gummowned, Phreak and You" Do it for the Kids

Hey guys, I finally started to mod one of my sticks to be able to use it on the xbone. My setup is a PS360+ impV2 +XBOne horipad. The problem is when I hook up the horipad wiring to the ps360+ via the 20pin connector, the board fails to recognize when the imp is selected ps3 by default, but if I disconnect the ribbon cable, it works fine. Strangely enough, if I switch the imp to the xbone (with everything connected together), the xbone sees the controller and it works fine.
Its connected like this:
USB cable ->impv2 ->PS360+ default ->Horipad (Home select switched)

I’m kinda stumped on what else to troubleshoot

Pics inside

Spoiler

http://i804.photobucket.com/albums/yy322/Rudeshadow/Joystick/20150224_113145_zps2ws73cy2.jpg

http://i804.photobucket.com/albums/yy322/Rudeshadow/Joystick/20150224_113045_zpsrfxdm6z2.jpg

http://i804.photobucket.com/albums/yy322/Rudeshadow/Joystick/20150224_113029_zpsnzmzvnnx.jpg

http://i804.photobucket.com/albums/yy322/Rudeshadow/Joystick/20150224_112926_zpstiahkiws.jpg

http://i804.photobucket.com/albums/yy322/Rudeshadow/Joystick/20150224_112833_zpsfrnuy2dq.jpg

Also, ignore the messed up menu button on the horipad. I royally f-ed that up in frustration while troubleshooting. It worked fine before I ripped it out and ruined it. Now I have to find the alternative spot on the backside to make that connection.

How long is your usb cord? The PS360+ is notorious for having issues with cords longer than 10 feet when doing a dual mod with another pcb. If you have a shorter cord to test you can determine if this is your issue.

Nope, I never found a solution. When I had this thing all hooked up, I also had the problem of my character continuously jumping due to the stuck analog axes.

The cord is about 8ft long. I tried with a 2ft cable with the same results.

Hey guys, how reliable are the bare xbox one pads on focusattack. I need an X1 pad and don’t feel like paying 65 for one.

They are the same as the X1 pad without it’s shell, just the main board and daughter board

I recommend considering the Crossbone PCB as it makes pad hacking the X1 PCB a whole lot easier.

You also could consider one of the 3rd party XBox 1 controllers

Gummo made a thread about it

Thank you. I will look into it.

Just wanted to say thanks again darksaul for pointing me to the third party pads. I picked up the Hori one to padhack into a stick. Very much appreciated my good man.

See the posts above yours. 3 people, including myself, have had problems with bare XB1 PCBs from Focus Attack.

For 5 dollars more ($40) you can buy the HORI horipad for xbox one. Its easier to hack than the official controller and does not need inverting of triggers.

http://www.amazon.com/HORI-HORIPAD-Xbox-Officially-Licensed-Controller/dp/B00O7LPXWS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1425565556&sr=8-2&keywords=hori+horipad

To be fair and it was said several times in this thread
The MS Xbox one pad hack is not easy. Its not a beginners level D.I.Y. project, and even a few veterans have problems in the past.
Although the Crossbone PCB makes the hack a bit easier, this is still an advanced project and there is a degree of risk involved.

Have a question on what is easier and more efficient for a dual mod.

I am going to pick up the new hori pad and was wondering what switching mekanism would be better? would just a dpdt rocker switch be better then an imp v2? Or are they both fairly the same in terms of setting up? I do like the idea of holding down a button(s) to switch to pcb rather then drilling another hole in my case for the switch. But if the imp is more complicated then I might give it a pass.

also somewhat confused on how to hook everything together. from what I been reading, I need to hook the horipad button(s),ground, vcc to the screw terminals of the ps3360+ and then just hook up D+ and D- from horipad to imp, same with ps360+? Hopefully not too off heh.
one more thing, where can someone with little to no electrical background learn more about pcb diagrams and components? Most of the websites I been to either assume you already have prior knowledge on the subject or they just push you in the deep end by giving too much info to digest at one time. Any recommended websites,videos, or books would be quite helpful to me. Just keep in mind I have a learning disability and it takes awhile for me to absorb info.

Thanks!

This has nothing to do with skill level. The issue here is dodgy PCBs bought from FA, who just ship these in bubble wrap - no anti-static bags. I’ve gutted and padhacked multiple XB1 and DS4 pads and never had an issue. The one time I decided to save a few bucks and order a bare PCB from them, it turns out to be dodgy.

Hi Gents.
So, I’ve successfully completed a number of these in various setups until today.
I’m dual modding into a 360 TES. XB1 mode works flawlessly but when in 360 mode, the triggers are constantly held down (FYI, connected to the resistor/capacitor combo).
Desoldering the triggers stops the issue.

Can anyone shed any light on this? Cheers!

Did you use Gummo’s image as reference for where and how to solder the inverters? If so, then the Vcc is wrong. Instead of having it got to HIGH on the triggers solder it to the 5v on the USB. Depending on what pad you are using, the USB 5v will be located in a different spot.

I hope Gummo doesn’t mind me using his picture.

I was using the official pad and havn’t had to do anything special for a dozen of them. The only exception was, my own stick needed diodes installed on the trigger lines to stop activating Remora.
I installed the diodes on this one too and now everything works flawlessly. I guess the TES pcb is more sensitive than usual for it to activate like this. Ah well, lesson learned :slight_smile:

Did the same thing as @Phreakazoid :slight_smile:

I’ve used diodes on the triggers for all the XB1 mods I’ve done - everything works as it should every time.

Ya, I didn’t know I’d needed to since I hadn’t had issues with any of the others.

Hey guys, just an Xbox1 and realized my TE and Dreamcast Agetec w/ a 360 pcb wont work.
I figured id take a chance on one of the official controllers on ebay for chip. Initially looking to put into the Agetec since I can just remove the 360 pcb, and then I can work on dual modding if successful.
My concern are the triggers. I saw in the other thread that many of the 3rd party controllers need an inverter. I havent done one of those yet, but look easy enough, More concerned with where to get one sadly. 1st page seems like a 100ohm resistor is all I would need?

After that I just stick a regular micro usb into the port and secure it, or I can take a longer usb from something else and wire it directly onto the pcb?

F that, even broken ones after shipping tend to hit 30-40, and NewEgg had it on sale new for $41. So I have that coming in.
Still reading through the thread, up to page 10 of 30.
Just to cover my bases so far, I’ll need 2x 33ohm res for the Data+/-, 4x 1k ohm resistors if I opt to remove the analog sticks and 100ohms for the triggers?

I have an old DC Agetec I gutted and put a 360 pad in, I plan to just remove the 360 pad and slide in the One pad.

But out of curiosity, if I wanted to dual mod it, I currently had all the buttons going to a barrier strip. So I can have the button signals go into one end, the the other that goes to the controller, I can just stick the 2nd pad in and have the 2 controller signals go in?
Then it would be bridging the VCC and grounds, then either have 2 USB wires hang out, or use a dpdt and have the data lines go to that and use as selector?