Xbox One PadHack Thread - Calling the goons "Toodles, Gummowned, Phreak and You" Do it for the Kids

F that, even broken ones after shipping tend to hit 30-40, and NewEgg had it on sale new for $41. So I have that coming in.
Still reading through the thread, up to page 10 of 30.
Just to cover my bases so far, I’ll need 2x 33ohm res for the Data+/-, 4x 1k ohm resistors if I opt to remove the analog sticks and 100ohms for the triggers?

I have an old DC Agetec I gutted and put a 360 pad in, I plan to just remove the 360 pad and slide in the One pad.

But out of curiosity, if I wanted to dual mod it, I currently had all the buttons going to a barrier strip. So I can have the button signals go into one end, the the other that goes to the controller, I can just stick the 2nd pad in and have the 2 controller signals go in?
Then it would be bridging the VCC and grounds, then either have 2 USB wires hang out, or use a dpdt and have the data lines go to that and use as selector?

Why you need resistors for the Data - and Data + lines?
You only need resistors for Trigger inversion

That is how a Dual-Mod works. You don’t even need the barrier strip (its optional).
One thing you want to make sure is never plug both USB cords at the same time (ever).

Get ether a DPDT switch or a v2 Imp board (they do the same thing)

See the Dual Mod 101 thread for more info

It was fairly early on. I guess thats more if I end up dual modding and try the dpdt method.
If I just stick a micro usb in, then I shouldn’t need to worry about this.
Just covering my bases.
Where can I read up on using different wiring techniques?
Most of my micro usb’s are under 5ft long.
I would like to try something like ethernet to USB or so.

Just connect a Micro USB cable to the XB1 PCB’s Micro USB jack.
The Resistors are only needed if you don’t use the USB jack.

I found things work the best when you adjust/mod as little of the original PCB as possible, as there less things that can go wrong.
It is why Gummo recommends not removing the analog stick blocks from the PCB. To just immobilize them instead with some hot glue.

Also if you are using a DPTD switch (or even a v2 imp board) you need to cut off your ends of your USB cable any ways.
So having all your Micro USB cables under 5 ft is a non-issue.

That question kinda vague. There dozens of techniques depending on what you are wiring up.

If you are referring to Dual Modding you really need to refer to the Dual Modding 101 thread

I recommend anyone who never did this kind of mod before to read though that thread before even thinking about pad-hacking a PS4 or Xbox One game pad.

Careful what RJ45 to USB cord you get, the RJ45 to USB cord meant for the PS360+ would be your best bet,
The RJ45 to USB adapter for cord extensions is not what you need.

Sorry, by wiring I meant the usb cord.
I have experience doing 360 mod chips and have successfully done some trace repairs, 0603 LEDs.
The work itself doesnt intimidate me, I just have difficulty expressing my thoughts and knowing where I want to go.
As of now, I definitely don’t want a micro usb into the pad and coming out to get to the system.
I have some rj45 ends and can borrow a crimper from a friend.
I wasn’t sure max length, 10-15 ft of cat6, and then crimp an rj45 on one and then splice into a USB A male maybe?
Or easier to let the pads micro hang out and get something like a male-a/female-a extender?

I like how durable the neutriks work, but again not sure the rules/limitations on making the usb/rj45 cable.

Check this link

can somebody tell me if its possible to use the switch on the te2/qanba4 that toggles the consoles to eliminate the dpdt switch for a dual mod? Im not using the ps3 function.

You still need that switch for toggling consoles even if you not using the PS3 side, without the switch nether side works.

Still only up to page 10 so far. Is there a less destructive method? Like soldering to the pin outs that the top board connects to?
In the event for whatever reason i decide I want to go back to using it as a regular pad?
Ive had analogs go bad on me in a 360 controller, where new analogs didnt help.
I just feel semi guilty butchering a brand new pad as opposed to beating up a used one.
I see the crossbone, but then thats more cost which I’d like to minimize if possible.

Thanks Darksakul. I just couldnt wrap my ahead around it properly. I got rj45 tips laying around but never bothered to get a crimper. So Ill order one of those and the Neutrik connector. Then I can just take a micro usb wire and chop the A end and crimp an rj45, and do for another usb chop the B and crimp and rj45 and I’m golden, correct?

but I removed the switch for the qanba and still works for the 360… Can you explain how the exactly the switch works?

No. Not without seeing all that has been done.

te2 mice nest:

this is the qanba q4 main pcb:

this is the secondary pcb with the switch

Only thing I can think of is the PCB defaults as a Xbox 360 PCB?

anyways you think theres no way of implemeting another pcb into it?

For that switch? Is it a Double Pole Double Throw (DPDT) switch?
Because if not, I don’t see it working.

Well technically you can wire it up to a relay that acts as a DPDT switch, but I have no idea what relay to use and it be very expensive.

I got a PDP fight pad… here is the pcb…

Looks like mouse left/right click switches for the buttons. I wonder how the dpad is.
Hows the controller feel? I’m in the process of procuring parts to do my first X1 stick, but was debating a pad to have in general for those times I don’t want to hook up a stick.
And my wife decides she wants to get into gaming now and a stick may be too much for her. Or rather if she has the stick, I’ll need something else.

Also is there a connector like crossbone just for the top board, so I can make a bootleg breadboard to pop in?
I want to minimize damage to the pad in the event I want to revert to a regular controller. I dont like the scratching up and destroying the dpad area.

Feels great, d pad is very responsive… similar to the xbox one controller but not “clicky” though its raised up a bit more with feels a little better under your thumb

its already in a dpdt switch working i just wanted to get rid of it and adding it to the switch i showed you

On a side note it looks like my original Xb1 controller’s dpad is just not good. I was struggling to do Endokukens in KI.
The new controller I ordered to padhack with, not a problem. Rolling the dpad, I hear and feel a loud click on all angles. the first one only made much notice pressing up.
So I might pass on the Fightpad if this is tolerable. 1 xb1 controller and a fight stick.