Xbox One PadHack Thread - Calling the goons "Toodles, Gummowned, Phreak and You" Do it for the Kids

Try it, what you have to lose.

Sometimes a circuit or a signal needs whats called a PULL UP RESISTOR.

Everything seems to b ok now except for the fact that i broke the left trigger joint from moving things around to test and i cant see a trace. Can anybody help answer what the resistor dose on this type of trigger? My resister stopped me from getting any signal. Id upload pix but dunno how :frowning:

Been keeping an eye on this thread for a while, I don’t even have a system to test on, but I’ve got a query regarding the resistors.

How many “watts” are needed for the resistors? I’ve been seeing 1/2 watt, 1/4 watt etc and was wondering if it would matter.

Also when wiring the the triggers, is it just a matter of putting the resistor in between the wire? ie there’s no inverting the triggers like the old mad catz controllers for the xbox 360?

Also regarding the resistors for the D+/-, is that only to be used if you want to hard wire a cable to the pcb or put it on a physical switch (do the IMP v1 or v2’s work on this?) I’m guessing if those points aren’t used, we can simply put a usb cable to a neutrik passthrough socket?

I’m sure I also read somewhere in the thread that the IR LEDs don’t need to have visibility to the Kinect right? ie. we can hide the XBOX1 pcb anywhere in the stick?

Sorry for all the questions, just wanting to make sure everything is a go before doing the mod, I’m looking at adding this functionality to my dual modded TE.

Too bad the PS4 pcb looks like a major pita to do, a quad mod would be pretty cool, but we don’t all have the knowledge and skills as gummo :slight_smile:

Thanks in advance

Note, I’ve yet to build one of these (or mod any stick for that matter) so my answers are a mix of my education in EE and thorough reading of the past 13 pages of this thread.

I would personally use 1/4 watt. A 1/4W 100 resistor (for the triggers) can draw a continuous 50mA at it’s limit. With VCC set to 5V, dropping all that voltage across 100ohm is exactly 50mA but you’re not going to be holding down the button continuously but rather in short bursts. Thinking out loud though, perhaps a 120ohm 1/4W resistor would be a better value to use for the triggers as that would guarantee you can only draw ~42mA if the button gets stuck and an extra 20 ohms should be negligible to get the hall-effect transducer to fire (although one never knows until they try.)

Put each resistor inline, how you do this is up to you but I suggest: PCB Pin --> Wire --> Resistor --> Wire --> Stick

The only thing you need to know is that if you hook up to the XB1 PCB via it’s miniUSB port, you don’t have to worry about the D+/D- pins nor the necessary 33ohm inline resistors. Whatever is on the other side of that miniUSB is moot.

Correct, no line of sight necessary.

Ok, so now that I gave some answers, I would appreciate a few to some of my questions before I take the padhack plunge =)
[list]
[]My XB1 is behind a closed cabinet so a must-have feature for me would be wireless capability. I imagine the only thing necessary to get this work in a reliable manner is to affix a rechargeable battery. I was thinking on buying the Wireless controller with the play-and-charge kit and then hot-gluing the battery to the PCB making sure the terminals have a good connection. Is there a better approach?
[
]I’ve seen it mentioned a few times but I too am curious why nobody is soldering to the header pins on the top PCB, they don’t look that close together. Although I guess they might seem close if you’re using some really thick wire like 22-24AWG which seems like way overkill for this low current application as 24AWG can carry 3.5Amps for chassis wiring! I would say even 32 AWG would be fine which is rated to about 500mA.
[]I’ve never owned a fight stick before but I want it to have quality parts so I’m curious what’s fightstick out there hits the mark for the best bang/buck ratio? I’ve heard good things about the SFxT fightstick, would this be a good one to gut for a dedicated XB1 mod?
[
]Speaking of Madcatz sticks with terminal blocks. Why are people suggesting to solder to the underside of the terminal block rather than using the existing harness wires? Again, I’ve never owned a stick but surely there must be a harness that connects the buttons and the stick to the original PCB. Cant you just clip the harness header that was going to the original PCB and separate the wires to solder to the XB1 PCB (preferably to the header pins?)

I know its often hard to judge tone in a forum post so just in case it came out wrong, in no way shape or form am I trying to be/act elitist; I’m just curious why some design choices have been made over others.

Thanks!

The cleaner way to do it would to be dremel out the battery part of the case and wire it up as a battery holder for the PCB using wire so you could secure the battery without hot glue, but hot gluing it on would work.

They’re really close together. The contact pads and bumper points are all super easy to pick up.

Anything with Sanwa/Seimitsu parts, or I guess the Hori Hayabusa components are nice too. [This thread is the best place to contemplate stick purchases.](What Stick/Controller Should I Buy? Read the Guide on Pg 1 Before Posting

Because it’s easy to do, keeps your existing TE PCB in play for dual modding, and you get use the wire you prefer when pad hacking the XB1 board.

Here is my dual modded HRAP3 PS3/XONE

I had it modded with a 360 mcz fightpad using terminal strips, so I just had to remove the 360 pad from the terminal strips and hook up the XONE pad. Pretty happy I used terminal strips all those years ago.

It has a DPDT switch, but I am currently just using two usb cables. I haven’t yet secured the wiring or analog sticks with glue.

It has 7 working buttons, I managed to wreck the RT connector when changing my incorrect resistors mentioned above. If anyone knows an alternate connection point for RT, let me know.

I know you guys love doing this kind of stuff but an alternative was posted in main KI thread not too long ago.
http://team-xecuter.com/forums/showthread.php?t=141912&s=d5960cdd59fcc15ec159e09356d7c730

youtu.be/WdVOSpmUx9g
It looks like it lags to my naked eye. If you look at 4:40 min in the video on that page, you see him test it out on a TE. It looks like lag to me but i don’t know if its from the adapter or the monitor he is using. Plus that adapter requires the use of a wired XBO pad to bypass the security, so you better off just hacking the pad.

^
Im getting one tomorrow so ill post my findings after i spend some time with it

[quote=“buyproduct, post:587, topic:164985”]

I had this fear too, and never came across something clear regarding this in this topic, so I fell less lonely now !

One thing to try out and verify is that I believe a couple tournaments earlier in the year banned Cronus usage after reports in pools of it causing the opponent to have some sort of dropped inputs. It was a weird report, but definitely something to try out.

Since it requires the original pad it’s not a bad option, but a padhack is still more versatile in stick setups.

Im ready to do this. I did a trial run on a sfxt fightpad and it worked and it was a great learning experience.
I have a few questions.
Do you have to use a micro usb cable or will any usb cable work?
If I dont use the triggers and dont remove the analogs do I not need resistors?
How would I wire up the xbox one qanba and an imp for a dual mod?
What awg wire is best for sticks?

Thanks

If you don’t use the triggers or remove the sticks, you’ll be fine without resistors. For your other questions are trying to only use on usb cable or two. I asked because you mention usb cables and then wiring with and imp.

Thanks for the reply. I would like to use one usb cable if possible. Does the imp work for dual modding with an xbox one, ye?

Yes

get a cronus max. /Done =]

$50 Cronus vs $60 XB1 controller

Official Reseller

http://cronusmax.com/

http://team-xecuter.com/forums/showthread.php?t=141912

Guys - this thread is about PADHACKING. Not converting a pad input using a laggy, non-tournament legal peripheral. Furthermore, this thread isn’t about the pros/cons of using a converter or a padhack, or a debate on the performance of the Cronus. This is simply for crowdsourcing the best way to padhack an XBox One controller.
Thank you.

Well if we are going to crowd source, the crowd should explore all possibilities and alternatives as possible.
The Cronus just happen to be a alternative, not a very good alternative but it still an alternative.
Yes much of what we know of the Cronus device is prior knowledge, causes other players to lag, drop inputs ban at tourneys, but now this thread can say without a doubt we explored that aspect of Xbone compatibility.

What I am really waiting for is the waves of 3rd party pads that come out the next few months.

Ok, is my pad behaving like all inputs are active…all the time!!! Please help