Xbox One PadHack Thread - Calling the goons "Toodles, Gummowned, Phreak and You" Do it for the Kids

Thanks. From the very beginning I wanted to do away with the battery pack as it would never be used. To simplify the install I used the micro usb cable connector to plug directly to the xbox one pcb just to try and avoid any problems as this was the first time doing this mod.

I simply took all the xbox one signal wires and sodlered them directly to the madcatz 360 pcb and combined the V+ and G on both boards. I put both d+/d- lines from both pcbs to the DPDT slide switch so that way I only used the single USB cable for both pcbs.

I left the analogue sticks on the pcb and just hot glued them in place. Again, as this was the first time doing this mod I wanted to remove as many variables as possible. Now I know its a straight forward setup I might remove them on future mods. But to be honest there was plenty of space inside after snipping the grey plastic stick/pegs that I didn’t need to remove them in the first place.

Thanks for the advice Gahrling, on the next setups I will definitely go the IMPv2 route.

I don’t think you did anything wrong but you will need those 33ohm resistors on the data lines from xb1

As for the resistors, its not an issue as long as all were 10k. The ohms determines the resistance which affects the signal causing it to think the analog sticks are neutral. All the watt does is show how much load it can dissipate.

Where exactly do you solder the usb to avoid using resistors? Cheers

I suspect you are going to have problems with this because your wiring is a mess and looks like you have multiple points shorting each other out. For instance look at how you’ve done the 10k resisters - the metal looks like it is in contact with loads of spots around it.

Speaking of which I am baffled as to why anyone would install the resistors like that. Please do it this way instead:

Don’t know where else to ask… Is anyone willing to do this for me? I’ll pay shipping+labor and include the XB1 controller in my shipment. (Also if anyone is in Colorado that’s willing to do it that’d be even more sick.)

Basically right on the micro usb jack’s pins because the next available solder spot is the onboard 33ohm resistors. Since they are rather small and difficult to solder to that is why a better spot is located after them at the TP spots. This of course bypasses them and the reason why you would have to add them in.

Honestly everyone should just use micro usb cables. Super cheap at monoprice.

Cheers. When doing a dual to an imp would it possible to connect a micro usb cable but then cut the cable and wire it the imp to avoid using resistors? Ye?

That’s how I did it.

Me three.

Ok so I got another pad and some supplies and gonna spend the weekend redoing my entire stick from scratch (no more splicing and no more re-purposing molex connectors).
Just wanted to double check my understanding of some of the recent posts.

  • Instead of connecting triggers directly to the hall sensor, connect to ONE of the 2 points below it.
  • Although doing the above means you don’t need a resistor, its highly recommended that you also add a resistor thats higher than 100ohm (220?..I ask cause I have some).
  • connect micro usb cable, snip the other end and connect D+ & D- to a dpdt switch thereby allowing you to use 1 usb cable for dual mods. You’ll need to run VCC and GND separately (independent from the switch).


  • To I need to be concerned with lack of power issues while running 4 boards+LEDs (cerberus, stock hori 360, xb1, remora)?
  • Any recommendations regarding what I’m trying to do as far as best way to connect the boards together (connect xb1 signals to stock? connect them to cerberus? connect them to remora?)?

I wouldn’t bother getting another pad, just troubleshoot what you have. Take a multimeter and touch all of your signals to ground and if they show connected then you have something grounded by mistake. Do the same thing with all VCC points to each other, all GND points to each other, and make sure nothing is touching another wire that it shouldn’t be. Also if you have an IMPv2 that would be easier than using a switch.

Thanks Vicko. Gonna do more testing on it.
I ended up putting it in a empty shell hoping that it’ll do better by itself but the same symptoms persist (‘back’ keeps triggering randomly and after 20mins of play it ends up holding right with the occasional split second stops before it starts holding right again).

While checking the connections to the analog spots I realized I lifted the pad at #10 clean off which would make sense since that would be the one that would determine anolog right direction (I think).

I then remembered that #10 is ground so I instead connected it to #11 but still ran into the same issue.

Gonna keep at it though! KI is too much fun to give up :slight_smile:

I just want to throw my 2 cents in and say I bought a cronusmax, now I know everyone her seems to hate on them but in fairness this thing seems to work. No noticeable lag, no missed inputs. It’s not 100% perfect I would say but then neither is a pad hack right? Just look through and see the amount of people having problems with multiple inputs, constant inputs etc.

If anyone has any questions about it feel free to ask. I’m not going to do any hardcore testing or anything. I would say this is a viable choice for the time being for certain people (mainly non tournament goers). It’s cheap, let’s me use keyboard and mouse for fps games and I can use any controller with it. Win/win.

Glad you like it, but you should probably take your discussion to the Cronus thread. This one is literally just for discussing xbox one padhacking.

Both points are connected directly, so it doesn’t matter if you solder your wire to both. Someone can correct me if I’m wrong about that.

220 ohm should be fine for RT and LT. I’m using 330 ohm and it works fine.

Also, if I were you I’d leave the analog sticks on and glue them in place. It really isn’t worth the hassle and potential solder issues to remove them unless you’re really confident in your ability.

If you’re not going to do hardcore testing then you shouldn’t be in tech talk.

turns out my analog activating right was due to a bad resistor (I changed them out and played for 2 hrs without it going off).
Now, to figure out the constant shorting of ‘back’

Problems with padhacks are because people are messing up, not lag.
Gummo has probably modded like 100 xb1 pads and doesnt seem to have problems.

Just because you cant tell it lags doesn’t mean that it doesn’t. You need to do extensive testing preferably with someone on another controller plugged in so you can see if it causes weird happenings.

However, all converters suck, this is fact.

I almost saved b15’s padhack to my /fap/ dir, that shit is TIIIIIIIIGHT. Also pad hacks (when done right) are flawless, there’s no difference between a pad hack and an official stick.