Xbox One PadHack Thread - Calling the goons "Toodles, Gummowned, Phreak and You" Do it for the Kids

The component you circled is the resistor and you’re very lucky because its the bottom pad of the capacitor (to the right) that has the trace that leads to the MCU. Your board is still eligible to implement the trigger fix I described above.

The signal starts with the hall sensor (the three pin IC), goes through the RC filter pair then down to a pin on the MCU. The thing you call a “magnetic strip” is not magnetic at all, its merely just a protective bumper pad so that when you pull the trigger down fully it doesn’t cut into the PCB, you can easily remove these pads with no adverse affect to the circuit. The magnetic flux detection is in the hall sensor itself. When you pull the trigger, its magnet gets closer to the hall sensor IC which in turns causes the voltage of its output pin to drop. That drop in voltage propagates down to the MCU which does a comparison on the voltage to detect if the trigger is pulled or not: 0v - 1.3v = pulled, 1.35v - 3.3v = released.

Awesome. You’re still pulling more current from the sensor than it was designed for but I would probably leave it as-is for now and if you do get a failure or intermittent issues I would move to my fix which completely removes the sensor from the equation.

Took everything off and re-pad hacked (minus triggers). Back button and led issue went away and just played for a couple hours and didn’t have any left/right issue.
Only thing that happened was every once in a while it would disconnect and re-connect (led starts flashing, xbone says reconnect controller then it reconnects after 3 secs or so). I suspect this is due to the usb cable being a bit loose/jfl causing vibrations against it but a lil hotglue should take care of that :slight_smile:

Gonna leave this one as is with 6 buttons then start again with a new pad in my main stick :slight_smile:

So the new feature I was hinting at is done. As a finishing touch I figured out how to get the LED(s) on the control panel that surround the Guide button to flash in sync with the guide button LED on the pad.

Before I go into detail about how I did it, is this already known and/or is there interest in doing it? Perhaps this already works with a dual/triple mod but for a dedicated mod like I’ve being doing I tossed the original PCB so I lost that functionality.

Merry Christmas TT

never tried it but I just assumed you’d connect to the led signal? now I’m guessing its not that easy though lol

Hello, everyone! First, thanks to all of you who provided the information in this post that made this mod possible. This was the first time I’ve ever attempted anything like this and I know nothing about electronics. The information on here was really helpful in making my first attempt a success.

Following the instructions on here, I was able to solder the X-Box One PCB and wire it with my HitBox’s PS360+ and it works wonderfully on my X-Box One without any issues (including triggers).

The problem I’m having now is I don’t know how to wire the USB to the DPDT switch. I know that the D+ and D- from both the X-Box One PCB and PS360+ have to be wired to the DPDT switch, but I’m not sure how to rewire the USB (D+ and D-) from the PS360+ to the DPDT switch.

In the picture (it might need to be zoomed in), I’ve marked where I’ve soldered the X-Box One VCC, D+, D-, and GRND to the PS360+ and I’ve marked the outgoing USB from the PS360+. Is there an alternate wiring point for the outgoing PS360+ USB so I can rewire it to the DPDT switch, or do I have to desolder the outgoing PS360+ USB in order to rewire it? Also, I’m aware that there is a IMPv2 for this, but I really like the idea of a physical switch (besides which I’ve already purchased the switch).

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

Here is a DPDT (Double Pole Double Throw) section of a Dual-mod tutorial

It is made for a PS3/ Xbox 360 Dual-Mod but it can be applied to your Xbox One PCB.

There also the following threads

Besides a DPDT switch you can use a V2 Imp

The Idea is the same as a DPDT switch but you can make the process auto-detect

Thank you, Darksakul. I’ve seen that video and read those posts backwards and forwards. I guess my question is really basic. Since two connections need to be made to the PS360+, one where I’ve soldered the X-Box One USB and one for the PS360+'s USB. If I were to install the DPDT switch, where do I solder the USB for the PS360+, or do I desolder the USB port that is already soldered onto it?

Those tutorials, while great, don’t show me specifically where to solder for the PS360+. Since it’s inherently a multi-console PCB by itself, there wasn’t ever a need to make a tutorial on how to add other PCBs to it.

When in doubt always read the manual. Since I’ve never used a PS360 before that’s exactly what I did…well actually I just looked at the picture on the 1st page but you should read the entire thing. Here’s what I’ve gleamed:

[]The PS360+ doesn’t support the XB1 so it makes no sense to hook up the XB1 USB data lines to it
]Even if it did support the XB1, those USB data line solder points are OUTPUTs, not INPUTS
[]As can be seen from the picture, those USB solder points are “Alternative” points, meaning you can use these in lieu of the USB jack
]Knowing the three points above, re-watch the video that was linked two posts back. Whenever the 360 PCB is mentioned, substitute your XB1 PCB, whenever the PS3 PCB is mentioned, substitute your PS360+ PCB

USB data lines shouldn’t be going to the PS360+, just VCC and GND from Xb1 but instead of where you soldered them to they should be connected to the screw terminals on the very left (next to the usb jack). In fact, in kind of looks like you already have them connected there too based on the pic.

  1. De-solder what you soldered to PS360 usb section (vcc, gnd, data)
  2. connect xb1 VCC and GND to the far left screw terminals on PS360 (assuming you haven’t done so)
  3. cut the usb cable coming out of ps360 (or unplug it, cut the head off and instead solder new wires to the usb section of PS360)
  4. connect Data from xb1 to one side of the switch
  5. connect data from ps360 to the opposite side of the switch (while making sure to keep + and - on the same row as xb1). If you cut the usb cable then just use those wires coming out from PS360 otherwise use what you soldered
  6. connect data from the external usb cable to the middle of the switch (keep + and - on same row as others)
    Regarding VCC and GND, seems like you have multiple options:
    a. connect VCC and GND from external usb to the cut end of PS360
    b. connect VCC and GND from external usb to the usb solder points on PS360 (what you originally connected xb1 to)
    c. connect VCC and GND from external usb to the far left screw terminals on PS360 (where xb1 vcc and ground go)

Option C seems easiest since that would give power to PS360 and also xb1.
Option A & B may require a separate connection from external usb to xb1 as I’m not sure how ps360 works (not sure if it passes VCC to xb1 via screw terminal)

Also note, if your connect data directly to xb1 board (and not via micro usb) you’ll need to add 33ohm resistors to each line.

Autodetect only works in conjunction with a Cthulhu.

Are you sure about that? I though it can be applied to other PCBs as well.

Multi Console Cthulhu and Cthulhu+ boards only.

Anything else connected to an IMPv2 pcb will be ‘saved selection’ only.

Having a hard time disabling the wifi on my pad. Do you have to cut really deep and is it just that trace that kind of loops around? Its hard to make out in that pic

best to cut deep and wide.

Alright ill give it another try. Its funny how I fucked up a b button by accident and now I cant even break this one on purpose.

EDIT: I got it done, thanks. I was ordered about coming through the other side at one stage lol. Hopefully I never have to look at this pcb ever again.

what is the purpose of cutting this trace? i know you said its to disable the wifi but what is this wifi you are speaking of? i’m not sure of all the xb1’s pad features.

disable the wireless in the game pad

For those tackling multiple installs, may want to take advantage of this.

Thank you so much, ChaotikMonk! Your explanation was exactly what I was looking for. Really appreciate it. Will try this over the next couple days and report my success (hopefully). :smiley:

It stopped me from getting the deal after my 8th order. Not sure if thats on BB end or if maybe my credit card thinks these are fraudulent orders.

Update: Pretty sure its on BB end. They canceled the last two orders. I wonder how many controllers and gift cards I’ll actually be getting.