The component you circled is the resistor and you’re very lucky because its the bottom pad of the capacitor (to the right) that has the trace that leads to the MCU. Your board is still eligible to implement the trigger fix I described above.
The signal starts with the hall sensor (the three pin IC), goes through the RC filter pair then down to a pin on the MCU. The thing you call a “magnetic strip” is not magnetic at all, its merely just a protective bumper pad so that when you pull the trigger down fully it doesn’t cut into the PCB, you can easily remove these pads with no adverse affect to the circuit. The magnetic flux detection is in the hall sensor itself. When you pull the trigger, its magnet gets closer to the hall sensor IC which in turns causes the voltage of its output pin to drop. That drop in voltage propagates down to the MCU which does a comparison on the voltage to detect if the trigger is pulled or not: 0v - 1.3v = pulled, 1.35v - 3.3v = released.
Awesome. You’re still pulling more current from the sensor than it was designed for but I would probably leave it as-is for now and if you do get a failure or intermittent issues I would move to my fix which completely removes the sensor from the equation.