Xbox360 TE stick: Please Reconnect Controller

Been getting this message lately in the middle of games, also wanted to mention my triggers/turbo go out frequently too. It’s all intermittent and these problems can not show up for weeks, or show up every hour.

I’ve dual modded my stick quite a while back and I have no problems on the ps3 cthulhu but i’m guessing this is a bad pcb.

Any suggestions? Am I pretty much fucked and are the SE and TE pcb’s identical? The only option I can think of is getting a SE for it’s PCB to replace my defective one.

i may have a brand new 360 te pcb to sell. pm if interested

I had the same issue – took it to MadCatz in person myself and waited for the verdict – faulty PCB.

it would be cheaper for you to get a 2007 Madcatz pad, if you can find one.

I also have the same problem! My dual mod works fine with the cthulhu but my madcatz pcb is just bleh. My RT doesn’t work and now this reconnect problem every like 20mins i’m playing.

This was happening to me…right before my 360 capability went out in my SE. This was after a dual mod.

And yes, it was a faulty PCB. What I did was call Madcatz, and they actually offered to replace the PCB for me. When I told them I kind of needed my stick for a tournament, and asked, since I had already voided the warranty, if they could send me a PCB so that I could repair it myself, they did. Madcatz does stand behind these sticks.

Also, did you wire the Cthulhu to the PCB itself? What I noticed personally, and it may just be a coincidence, was that my PCB for the 360 worked fine up until I modded. Then when I wired the Cthulhu to the PCB, it started doing this. Then when I got my replacement board, I wired all the button inputs to the terminal strip, and all the joystick inputs to the contacts on my stick (I used a Seimitsu LS-32, without a PCB/harness, so that’s where the inputs on my 360 PCB also went to). The only thing that got soldered to the PCB was Home. I have not had a single problem with the PCB shorting out or dropping inputs since I did this.

I honestly wish Bomberman would modify his guide to direct people to solder to the terminal strips and to the joystick itself if at all possible. It’s not only easier to solder to those spots, but for me, it seemed to keep my board from shorting out.

yeah, it was working fine until after I did the dual mod… but even then it was working fine until like a couple months after.

You think it might just be a coincidence though? I honestly know people who have never dual modded their PCBs and have this very same issue.

I guess I’ll give madcatz a call… I have no idea how you convinced them to get you a replacement though haha

iwas thinking of dual modding . .now im scared :X

Well, it could all be a coincidence. Which I think it most likely is.

Won’t know until we get more replies

Yes, everythign was working fine till I dual modded my stick and I just recently just played it on the 360 last night. Hopefully Madcatz will be willing to send a PCB board. How long is the warranty on the stick?

not sure, I’ll give them a call tomorrow. Did you dual mod it the same way as bomberman?

I too have gotten to same messages after dual modding my TE with the MC cthulhu. It’s not so bad on the 360 as it doesn’t stop my game when the message occurs. However, the game will pause on the PS3, a message along the lines of unrecognized or unidentified device has been inserted, and then I’d have unplug and replug the TE back in. It may be a installation error on my part so I’ll wait to get a picture of the error and ask toodles himself but outside of this occasional error everything works perfectly.

I don’t have any errors on my ps3, only on xbox.

You think he should change the whole guide because 2 people had a problem that hasn’t even been proven to be related yet? There’s a ton of people that did this mod so… I guess if more people come out with the same problem maybe there would be a reason to address it, but as it stands it seems like it’s working fine for the others, myself included. I also think the mod is WAY better the way it is, then having to wire to the terminal strip and stick… doing it to the pcb seems a whole lot cleaner. Of course there’s a chance some people are going to mess up and short their board or something, but that’s the risk you take when you do a mod like this. If people want to be 100% sure nothing will happen, then they can just leave the stick stock.

I can assure you the mod was done very clean and professionally on my end.

Whether or not these issues are a product of dual modding or a madcatz faulty pcb from the get go is what I’m trying to understand. I’ll get a replacement one way or another and I’m trying to figure out what the next best thing to do afterwards would be.

Preferably I would like to do this mod the same way I did in the past, which is bomberman’s way.

I’m not saying you didn’t know what were doing when you modded or anything (that part wasn’t really directed at a specific person). Just saying when you do that kind of mod, things can happen, even if you’re careful. I just don’t think it points to any reason that bomberman should change the guide when nobody else has had a problem, and IMO the mod is far cleaner the way it is. For those that want to wire straight to the terminal strip/stick though, more power to them.

I just got my dual mod workin’ yesterday, but haven’t done any extensive testing. Kinda scares me though that this may happen. But as long as you say madkatz is willing to send us another PCB, it’s all good to me! :smiley:

you got PM

I modded it like Bomberman, but without the IMP kit used a DPDT switch.

Total coincidence. Electrically, none of the boards could possibly tell any difference between being connected at the main board versus connected at the button distribution block.
If the board dying was a result of the dual mod, then wouldn’t it make sense that we would not see the trigger problem on unmodded sticks? There are tons of folks with virgin 360 TE’s and SE’s experiencing this problem.

If its easier, great. Write up a tutorial on it. But its not going to change the life of the board.

The fact just is, the pcb in the 360 fightsticks is utter crap. The case is well made, good quality parts are used in the TE’s, the wiring from the distribution block to the buttons is top notch, but the pcb is made with the exact same piss poor assembly standards that gave MadCatz a bad name to begin with. It needs to be improved, badly, and there’s nothing we can do aftermarket to help.