how are they not getting scammed? Did they make you send in the shoddy board? What is to stop people with good TE’s from calling in and getting replacement pcb’s they dont need?(Other than their good conscience)
Quick noobie question:
Are the SE and TE PCB’s the same?
I was thinking that i can get my hands on my friend’s SE since he doesn’t like it and do a swap PCB to the TE edition if that’s even possible.
Yeah, they’re pretty much the same as far as I know.
buyproduct, I don’t know. I had previously registered my product on their website.
As far as I can tell, both PCBs (the LED board and the main board) are completely identical. It should be a very easy swap, except for all of that damned glue on the white connectors. If you can handle the glue, the swap is a cakewalk.
I just ordered a TE. I swear to jesus if it breaks i will strangle someone.
Thanks, that’s very good to know in any case i have to do this by other means, though for now i think i’ll wait for MC answer since i’m still under warranty.
Problem is it would cost me almost 50 dollars to send the stick if they ask for it since i’m overseas surrounded by water in this little place we call Puerto Rico. And i almost lost one ball when my GF found out i bought 2 of this things, so i know i would be running the risk of loosing both if i told her i have to send one of the sticks for repairs.
BTW, i was looking at [media=youtube]VyE7WcQtHE0&feature=related"[/media] by ShinJN and the sticks looks very mod and user friendly which is nice to know too.
I know that almost everyone here should have seen it already, but for those who haven’t, it’s a must to watch since the beginning.
Just got my PCB board from Madcatz, luckily i’m in San Diego where they are located. No need to wait for shipping stop by and picked it up.
how does madcatz know if u voided ur warranty or not? im getting this problem with my modded SE stick i came to the conclusion today that the pcb is faulty, weird thing is it happened after the mod but im pretty sure i didnt scratch it or anything when i was modding it. and my stick only turns off and back on when i do 360 motions
When I called, there was no need to verify anything about my purchase, and although I changed my art when I got them, I was still out of the normal warranty period. They are still sending me a PCB once they get them back in stock despite knowing this.
they didn’t ask you to prove anything? You just told them you had a TE with a bad pcb and they said they’d send you a new one??
well I haven’t messed with dual modding my TE but I’ve noticed my RT (RH) button is randomly going out mid match, it works fine if I unplug it and replug it back in. It seems to be random, it can be fine for a few weeks and then bam, it’s out. I’ve checked the QD’s almost every time and they’re fine.
I may try calling MadCatz for a replacement PCB.
So i have question. Using a TE with the cthulhu. It works flawlessly on my 360. No problems at all. then i’ll use it on my ps3. NO issues either. After that point it just doesn’t work on either. it flashes once on the guide button when i plug it into the 360. Nothing happends. I know for a fact everything is wired fine. I had someone even look at it (in fact when i gave it to them it worked fine for them!) they gave it back to me and it worked great on 360… one day i decided to use it on ps3 (keep in mind i play it hours everyday for at least 6 days a week on the 360) used it ONCE on the ps3 now it doesn’t work on either.
I made sure i’m switching the controller to LS for 360 and even DP doesn’t work. RS for ps3 but now it doesn’t work on either. Does anyone have any ideas?
Did you do it using bomberman’s guide/diagram? I don’t know if you just messed up in your description or what, but it’s supposed to be RS for /360/ not for ps3 if you used bomberman’s guide. You switch it to RS when you plug it in, then switch it back to DP. For PS3 you just leave it in DP when/after you plug it in (or technically anything that isn’t RS). Sounds like you did a lot of testing, so I’m guessing maybe you just mistyped that part (or wired it differently?), but just throwing that out there.
I believe you are mistaken. Bomberman’s guide should have Xbox as the default, and ps3 as the secondary, which would mean DP and LS go to 360, while RS goes to PS3.
this is correct.
Hate to argue with this but…
look at the text under the cthulhu. Unless i’m having a total brain fart about something, this text is wrong, and/or I wired mine backwards… it’s RS for xbox mode (guide on cthulhu is wired to RS), and others for ps3 mode. This is how mine has always worked.
EDIT: Just noticed the difference is whether or not you’re using an MC cthulhu or PS3 only cthulhu. Sorry I didn’t specify, I have an MC and didn’t realize there’s a difference. Unless I missed it though, foxisquick didn’t specify which one he had, so I’ll leave it up here just in case… sorry for the mixup though.
PS3 only cthulhu on a 360 TE.
Your absolutely right; in that diagram, RS would be 360 and everything else would be PS3. I would recommend folks NOT do that, whether using an MC or PS3 cthulhu. Run the D+/D- from the cthulhu to the 2’s and the Xbox to the 1’s.
Can you think of any reason he did it that way only for the MCs? Also, is there a reason you recommend it the other way, or do you just think it’s more consistent or makes more sense because the stick is natively for 360?
Toodles, why do you advise against that? I too installed my my MC cthulhu and imp exactly as diagrammed in the bomberman guide.