Your favorite lever and mods


For the past few weeks I’ve been experimenting with different levers and mods. After going through a multitude of combinations I think, ironically, I like the stock JLF the most. I’m still debating between that and the Hayabusa with a LS-32 spring.

Whats your favorite setup? Considering the amount of possible combinations, I’d be really interested to see what people like the most. I know that there are probably plenty of you that just stick with the stock JLF so that you wont be at a disadvantage if you’re ever without your stick. That’s something that definitely goes into my consideration.



Ultimarc Ultrastik. Its a moddified JLW (also a good stick)–added Hall effect PCB for PC, but can also be used for other systems worth the addition of another PCB.

I just picked up a couple of Rollie flashs for a JLF. I’ll let you know how I feel about that once I get my sticks done. Heavier spring, of course.

Interest Check: Kickstarter for custom "universal" stick gates (now with CAD drawings!)

LS-40 Stock \ JLF with SparkCE dialed to about 60 ohms with a 2 lb spring \ old happ p360


Crown 303-FK w/ Arcade Stick Indonesia upgrade kit


Im an eighties baby, so give me the good ol IL/Happ ha ha ha.


SparkCE JLF with LS-55 spring, ~60Ω. LS-40 for shmups!


Wico p360 with hard spring.


What exactly does the mod kit entail? I only could find the rubber mods on Arcade stick Indonesia.


JLW with Omron switch replacements and an aluminum Dragon Bat top.
LS-40 with a Omron switch replacement, no throw mod, and a polyoxymethylene Dragon Bat top.
Hayabusa with a Dremel lever mod, 3 lb spring, no throw mod, and an aluminum Dragon Bat top.

These are subject to change at any time.

Oh, off topic but Seimitsu G buttons with RG switch replacements. So. Fucking. Good.


Either Medium (Myoungshin) or Hard (Taeyoung) rubber grommet and four Omron v1521c25 microswitches. @wazwuz 's facebook is the best way to get one


@el greco Thanks man, Looks like something I’m definitely going to do.

As for my favorite setup so far:

Sanwa JLF with 3lb spring, 1mm oversized actuator and bat top.


^^^ why not just use a stock JLW-UM? Bat top, heavier spring, better action all stock. Cheaper since you’re not upgrading it.


good question! :slight_smile: Ive only ever had one decent arcade stick and it came stock with a JLF so I just modded the parts on it. I defintely need to try the JLW-UM though. It sounds like the perfect out of box stick.


Atm, Hayabusa with 2lb spring.


JLW with square gate and omron v15/gersung gsm v, at least for now (has anyone else experienced cracks in the circular gate after barely a month of use ?)


Show me.


Stock JLF.

Because I prefer being able to play on anyone else’s stick and not feel off because it doesn’t feel like my JLXXW with spherico-octagonal gate and quantum effect switches.


I have them in some KNs, it’s similar. The Sanwa RS-SG switches will fit into the “large-switch” Seimitsu buttons. The plungers float because of the mismatched mating face to the switch, but they have a unique feel.


Please keep in mind this is my personal thoughts and opinions.

I personally gotten sick of all the JLF mods. I even getting tired seeing people trying to mod the JLF. If the JLF is so great why are you modding it?
(this don’t include some of us that have to meddle and mod with everything we get our hands on)

At the end pf the day your modded JLF will never have the durable feel of the Happ\IL joystick or have the precision of a Seimitsu joystick.
Only thing the JLF got going for it is a smooth pivot. A Modded JLF will only feel like a modded JLF.
The JLF is very lose when it comes to precise inputs but the JLF is more forgiving.

Happ\IL are designed for durability that is it, with no concerns of precision or accuracy. these joysticks were designed for American Arcade owners who wants a long lasting cheap part for their wooden cabs and does not give a care how well the actual machine plays as long as that machine still makes money. I look on Happ and IL users lower on the scale than JLF users (and JLF users get a pass as its the most common joystick).

Seimitsu Joysticks have tighter inputs, but the LS-32 suffers from a bad pivot design, The LS-55 and 56 aren’t bad but they needed to be mounted high and is a little small for some folks.
The LS-40 its the one Seimitsu Joystick I sill need to try out.

Hori Hayabusa, The best way I can describe it, it feels like the JLF if you fix almost everything that is wrong with the JLF joystick. Only issue I have with it is the length of the throw.

So that leaves me with the JLW, it got the smooth pivot of the JLF but a much shorter throw, engage and dead zones compared to the JLF. And its a Durable joystick than can mount in wood like a Happ\IL joystick.

All that leaves out is Korean parts, which at this time I have no desire to try out.

The issue there is the acrylic circle gate has a smaller area than the square gate. And as the gate material is brittle, smaller gate + brittle acrylic + strong shaft and Spring = cracked gates.
Too bad no one offers aluminum or derlin gate options.


Isn’t there a way to shorten the throw on the hayabusa? That’s the issue I have with it. Also, it may help to say what game you all are playing with these sticks. From what I understand different sticks work better for different games. Up until watching infiltration play I was under the impression that Korean sticks were for SF4, but he’s proved me wrong.